Steering wander

[s.kelly]

My '06 2500 4x4 with 84K has gradually developed a bad habit of wandering, especially when I have the Lance on the back. Has anyone installed the Luke's Links to their tracking bar to overcome this problem? If so, what were the results? It's gotten to the point where I'm reluctant to put 'er on the freeway loaded, because when the big rigs pass on the left, the suction throws me all over the road. I've installed a heavy sway bar on the rear plus air bags to compensate for the load, so the truck goes down the road level.

 

[JBallou]

Well, it sounds like the front end needs an inspection. Check for what is loose and replace them. The track bar bushings won't help if that's not worn out.

This is assuming that tires are inflated correctly, your truck is not overloaded, and drove fine with the camper a while ago.

 

[Nyoest]

You need to check your ball joints as well as your track bar and steering box for play. Easiest way check everything but the ball joints is have a helper in the running truck rocking the steering wheel back and forth.

And then jack it up and have the helper put a bar under the tire and pry up. Watch closely for play in your hubs and ball joints.

Spooky feeling towing and having that sensation you described!

 

[Prairie Dog]

As others have said, check all the components and don't forget to check for slop and lateral movement in the steering gear. Then after everything is tight, install a supplemental steering brace (SBS) on your steering gear. You wont believe the improvement.

 

[JFought]

i have the
links

but you need to look at all components especially ballpoints and track bar bushings, and tie rods

 

[EDankievitch]

You'd be suprised how a small amount of movement in all of the Ball Joints , Tie rod ends and Track bar bushings will add up. I would have a friend rock the wheel back and forth while you look and inspect the front end. With the truck on it's wheels or you'll never see any movement. The 08 steering linkage is a great update and seems to hold up much better than the system that your truck came with. I think Moog now offers all the parts to make the conversion, though the kit from Dodge might be cheaper? I have over 90,000 hard use miles on my kit and it has held up very well.

 

[Wingate]

Then after everything is tight, install a supplemental steering brace (SBS) on your steering gear. You wont believe the improvement.

Absolutely, Dodge should ahve installed these on all the 3rd gens out of the factory!!. . Night and day difference.

 

[AaronOregon]

I just put in Luke's link bushings in my track bar. I was not impressed at all with the $50 spent. Still play in the track bar. A press in (water pump barrel style) bearing would be a much better design in my opinion.

Aaron

 

[CPittman]

My bet is with Nyoest and Prairie Dog on the steering gear. Crawl under the truck and have somone turn the steering wheel side to side. You should see the steering gear sector shaft waggle left and right. And like EDankievitch said you'd be surprised how a little bit here and there adds up to the sloppy feel, hunting, and wandering.



Lots of us have retro-fitted Red Head steering gears and BD (or any brand) SBS systems to stop the slop.

 

[Regcabguy]

I'd go with the steering gear brace and a Thuren or Carli quality trackbar. If you're still running the stock shocks,disgard them and have Thuren or Carli valve you some 2. 0 shocks w/reservoirs. My stock shocks were overwhelmed by my 2000# popup. As mentioned also,consider upgrading your front suspension to the new one out.



If money's tight,some adjustable Rancho 9000's would help a bunch.

 

[SDrake]

Right after i bought my 03 with 103000mi I noticed impreciseness in the steering, had someone wiggle the steering wheel while I watched all the connect points (ball joints, tierod ends etc) and everything looked pretty tight. Saw the steering shaft moving some so I bolted on a steering brace i found on ebay for about $125 and steering now feels like I expect it to feel. Tracks good while towing travel trailer through those tight lanes at constructions sites with the 18 wheel a few feet away in the other lane.



Put the steering brace on regareless of what else may need attention. As was said earlier this should have been a factory part.

 

[Trophy Truck]

And my 2 cents... this is the same ole issue that everyone experiences sooner or later. On my 06' (100k miles, 4x4, Lance 825 Camper on back, my own custom air bags on rear, RS 9000 shocks, Hellwig rear sway bar, and spring snubers, steering brace) I have replaced the steering with the newer style Dodge setup, installed the Lukes link trac bar kit (get the larger bolts also), rebuilt steering box, new ball joints (already bad after 20,000 miles... this is old news), set the toe in to 1/16" to 1/8" inch, new tires. All this does not cure the problem but it really helps.

 

[brillmtb]

Can someone clarify what the steering brace is. Is it the brace I just purchaced that goes across the front of the truck and stabilizes the steering box? I just purchaced this and a red head steering box on my 2003 Ram, 150K miles as I have both a little drifting and leakage. I thought putting both in at the same time was the way to go.



While putting in my new bilstiens in place of my crappy ranchos (what a difference, thanks to those who steered me this way) I noticed that in manipulating my front wheels I could see up and down play in my upper ball joints. I assume I should see no play and need to replace those now? Comments? What should I replace them with?



Should I just add a new steering stabilizer while I am at this at this point? Seems like a cheap replacement anyway.



Lastly, I was considering a rear sway bar. Anyone who has done this on thier truck did you like the improvement?



thanks in advance

 

[rscurtis]

The upper "ball" joint is not really a ball at all- it's a pin within a sleeve. It is made with the capability to move up and down about 1/4". If you can see that movement, it means that the lowers are on their way out.

 

[EDankievitch]

Don't waste your money on anything. Only go for the best Carli or Dynatraxx anything else you'll be doing the job over and over.....

 

[AEdelheit]

Can someone clarify what the steering brace is. Is it the brace I just purchaced that goes across the front of the truck and stabilizes the steering box? I just purchaced this and a red head steering box on my 2003 Ram, 150K miles as I have both a little drifting and leakage. I thought putting both in at the same time was the way to go.

While putting in my new bilstiens in place of my crappy ranchos (what a difference, thanks to those who steered me this way) I noticed that in manipulating my front wheels I could see up and down play in my upper ball joints. I assume I should see no play and need to replace those now? Comments? What should I replace them with?

Should I just add a new steering stabilizer while I am at this at this point? Seems like a cheap replacement anyway.

Lastly, I was considering a rear sway bar. Anyone who has done this on thier truck did you like the improvement?

thanks in advance

Sounds like the steering brace you bought is the what everyone is talking about. your upper balljoints have to have some up and down movment otherwise it will bind in a turn, so the top will have verticle movement but sholdnt have horizontal play and the lowers shouldnt have any movment either way. you can put a long pry bar or good shovel under the outer edge of the tire and have someone move it up or down, you should not see any play. A unit bearing going out can also feel very similar to a ball joint going out.

 

[Wingate]

cant remember the brand I bought, but I purchased it from GenosGarage.com

 

[brillmtb]

Thanks for the info. So I was told my lowers needed replaceing but I could drive on them still. I dont know that I trust the tire shops on this if they think you dont know better they can get you to do anything.



If I replace the lowers only does that make sense. Should I just do the uppers as well if the lowers need to be replaced?

 

[AEdelheit]

If your gonna do the labor to pull the knuckle it's really worth it to do both,

 

[SDrake]

If your gonna do the labor to pull the knuckle it's really worth it to do both,

It is usually my practice to try to replace wear items even if they are still good if I am into an an expensive teardown. For example I replaced the rear seal on the engine even though it was not leaking when I had the transmission out. Still no leaks at 290000. Proud of myself. But experience sometimes helps me learn to not get carried away with this philosophy.



Back about 1997 I was somewhat upset when the balljoints on my 94 4x4 with about 60,000 miles were severely worn. It snuck up on me because I was driving the truck thinking of it as a new truck still. Anyway I had a good local Joes garage like place replace them as they had done it on a lot of other kinds of trucks. I was upset again when I picked it up and the mechanic told me he put greasable Moogs on the bottom but the top joints were good so he did not replace them ---- so I kept expecting them to wear out and I would be upset again. .



My son has the truck now with those same top ball joints and the Moogs on the bottom at 290000. They are still tight. The third gen joints are set up differently so my experience may not apply here.