steering wobble / drift

[RWherley]

We have a 04 3500 DRW, that has been having steering issues. We replaced all the bushings in the front end (control arms, sway bar, track bar) with new energy suspension poly bushings. New BD diesel rebuild able sway bar link ends, new Bilstien 5100 shocks, new moog ball joints, new u-joints at the wheel ends, We upgraded the steering linkage to the new Mopar T style rods from the 08 and newer trucks as well as changing to the Mopar 6 bolt steering box, then had the front end aligned by the dealer, we also went to a Yukon free spin front hubs. The only old part in the front end is the coil springs, but we still have issues with the steering wondering and wobbling going down the road. any one have any ideas?

 

[AEdelheit]

I would double check alignment, within spec is not nearly close enough on these trucks. I like 0.00-005 total toe in and 3.7-4.5 deg of castor. Also the stock track bar has a lot of deflection, new bushings are just a patch and not nearly as strong as a high quality replacement track bar.

 

[cerberusiam]

Will need to define "steering wondering and wobbling" a lot better to get any meaningful results. Assume wondering means wandering but even that is too generic, does it do it without any steering input, small movements don't quit, have to over steer to get reaction?

Wobble what? Tires? Steering wheel? Body? Up and down? Sideways?

Tires, rims, and rotors are notorious for problems especially on the DRW's, what have you done to validate the tires are good, the rotors true, and the wheels not bent?

The Moog BJ's are even more notorious for memory steer and just being junk. Waste of time installing them as you never know if they are the problem or something else.

 

[RWherley]

wandering, the truck will go slightly from side to side requiring small corrections to keep it strait, as for the wobbling it only happens after hitting a bump the front end will bounce up and down for a little before settling down again, we put brand new rotors on when we did the free spin conversion, we put all 6 brand new tires on the truck with no improvement and tried flipping wheels front to back and side to side with no change, as for moog, can i put some thing else in? the issue of TDR said that moog had a over size shank and once they were installed you were kind of limited to what you could use.

 

[EDankievitch]

Take the MOOG ball Joints out and throw them out. They are more than likely binding. I ran in to this same problem a few years back. The Ball joints bind-ed so bad the truck was un derivable. I don't have an answer why except for the engine is too heavy? Installed a set of Dynatraxx on one truck and Carli's on the other truck the problem went away. I've got a set of Syenergy Ball joints on the shelf for my 2013 they seem to be very similar to the Carli design for the price they are worth a try.....

 

[brods]

wandering, the truck will go slightly from side to side requiring small corrections to keep it strait, as for the wobbling it only happens after hitting a bump the front end will bounce up and down for a little before settling down again, we put brand new rotors on when we did the free spin conversion, we put all 6 brand new tires on the truck with no improvement and tried flipping wheels front to back and side to side with no change, as for moog, can i put some thing else in? the issue of TDR said that moog had a over size shank and once they were installed you were kind of limited to what you could use.

X2 on the Moogs being junk. Maybe they deform going in because they are oversizsed? Since the Moogs I've had XRF and Raybestos lowers. Iirc all were splined and all took the most force to install compared to every other ball joint I've ever done so there was no indication of the knuckle being wallowed out. That said I'm guessing there is no going back to smooth sided ball joints after installing a splined type?

 

[AEdelheit]

Dynatrack makes a splined as well as a smooth body ball joint so that you could use them after using another splined or knurled joint.

 

[cerberusiam]

Big question, what tires did you use? What weight ratings, not ply rating like D or E, but actual weight per tire max and what size? Does air pressure in the tires change the behavior? With new 5100's and good tires no way should the front end bounce up an down like that, something is causing a lack of rebound damping. Worn sprigs should not be the cause there as then will dampen rebound.

What is the alignment set to? Spec is frequently not going to work if you have other issues, 1/16" toe in and start with 4 degrees of caster.

It depends on the BJ you used whether it had an over size shank, the problem solvers do, the stand BJ does not. Best price\performance point at this point is XRF, DynaTrac and Carli are an excellent solution but cost is higher.

The poly bushing kit just helps with rebound and wear, unfortunately they have a lot more movement than hard rubber bushings. The t-type steering has much more bump steer in it than anything, on rough roads where you get a lot of suspension action they will wander a bit even with the new big box, you can just feel it better with the new box. If there are truly no issues with the setup you should be able to go straight down a smooth road with minimal input to steering. If you still get wander where you have to constantly stay ahead of it, either something is still bad in the steering\suspension or the BJ's are a causing it.

 

[Ozymandias]

My Moog BJ were also junk, binding from the first mile and never broke in. Waste of money, undrivable. INstalled Carli after and now its like heaven.

 

[RWherley]

I will look into the ball joints, as far as the alignment spects, its dads truck he had it done by the local dealer and i have no idea where they set it. as for tires and wheels, we have American Eagle aluminium 19.5 x 6 wheels, the first tires where Goodyear 8R19.5 then the new tires are saliun 225/70R19.5 rated for 3968 lbs.and 14ply inflated to 95psi

 

[JKosten]

What are you hauling that you need to run at 95psi in your front tires?

 

[Regcabguy]

I would double check alignment, within spec is not nearly close enough on these trucks. I like 0.00-005 total toe in and 3.7-4.5 deg of castor. Also the stock track bar has a lot of deflection, new bushings are just a patch and not nearly as strong as a high quality replacement track bar.

Aaron,would those specs pertain to my 2.5" Kore lift? I've got the Synergy steering also. I'm about to have it realigned.

 

[AEdelheit]

Aaron,would those specs pertain to my 2.5" Kore lift? I've got the Synergy steering also. I'm about to have it realigned.

Yup, these specs work well most setups on these trucks !!

 

[Regcabguy]

Yup, these specs work well most setups on these trucks !!

Thanks,I'll get mine in.!

 

[RWherley]

We pull a 20ft flat and a 30ft van trailer, and 95psi seems to give the most even wear pattern