Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) steering

[rmcnamee]

Hello all,

Well, for the last few days I've been trying to address a steering issue with 1997 2500 (82K miles) my truck. Believe it or not, its not the common wandering problem, its a lack of returning to center after a turn.



Here is what is going on. The steering is tight (not in terms of slop), but in terms of the amount of effort needed to turn the wheel. After making a mild turn, the wheel will almost come back to center on its own. However, try to tight turn and you have to help it back to center.



So far here is whats been done to hopefully correct the issue- with marginal results:

1. The truck has been put in the air and the box, links and track bar were checked- all good and tight. However, the ball joints were really tight. Took a lot of effort to cycle the steering (pushing/pulling on the wheels) right to left with the truck in the are and the column unlocked. My friend is a mechanic and says he's never seen a set so tight. While doesn't think its the problem, he says anything can happen.

2. Caster was adjusted and it helped somewhat, but not totally.

3. The over center adjustment screw on the box was backed off about 3/4 of turn, which really didn't do anything.



What is the other steering box adjust (the one involving the preload bearing) used for? I have a set of new ball joints for the truck and I may just throw them in and see if that fixes the problem. I'm also starting to wonder about the PS pump. Maybe its not pumping enough. Any way to tell?



Any help here guys/gals would be great.



Thanks,

Ryan

 

[biggy238]

I thought propper caster was the only way to get one to return to center. . Does this truck have large tires or a leveling kit? My leveling kit made it impossible to reset without the proper control arms. ` IT still doesn't center but the ride is nicer.

 

[WDixon27]

i suppose it's possible something loosened up in the box adjustment, i am new to dodges but almost a old hand on rec ball steering on euro cars, has the nut with the allen screw been played with? generally fully tightened and backed off about 1/2 a turn sets it decently, i always set them with the front end off the ground so i can feel if it's too tight and binding, i just did mine last week on my 3500 and it was just like a bmw on it's adjustment, mercedes you loosen the allen instead of tighten. i unhook the centerlink from the pitman arm when i am looking for something screwy, that way you can tell if the box is binding

 

[rmcnamee]

biggy238: Proper caster will determine how straight the vehicle tracks (minus any toe problems) and will effect how well it returns to center. This truck has stock tires and wheels with no leveling kit.



WDixon27: These boxes do have an adjustment atop the sector shaft (allen head screw through a nut) and I backed it off about 3/4 of full turn. The results were more wander/slop in the box, so I don't think messing with it anymore will fix the issue. I think what I'm gonna do is start testing each component and eliminate each as I go. I already know that the ball joints are tight, specifically the right side, so I will drop the pitman arm next and cycle the box to see if its binding.



Now back to the ball joints, I got to thinking after posting this question, tell me what you (or anyone else for that matter) think about this. When making a left turn, both the required amount "muscle" needed to move the wheel from center and the truck's natural ability to return to center unassisted is better than when making a right turn. Basically, when you turn the wheel to left, it turns easier and returns to center better than when turning to the right. Now, when turning to the right, you have to put a little more "muscle" into turning the wheel and when you come out of the turn, you have to help the wheel return to center quite a bit. O. K. , here's my theory: When coming out of a turn, the angle at which the inside tire is pitched (i. e. caster) will effect how well it returns to center on it's own. As I stated on my truck, the left ball joints are tight and the right ones are really tight, so here is what I think may be happening. After making a left turn, the left tire has enough caster to return to center with relative ease because while the ball joints are tight/firm as they should be, they aren't overly tight, which would increase resistance. Now when coming out of a right turn, while right side caster is most likely within spec. and should cause/assist/allow the right tire to return to center with ease, the overly tight ball joints are offering too much resistance and hampering the tires ability to return to center. What do you think?



Ryan

 

[6btsmoker]

i have seen the u joints in the front x cause steering problems.

 

[rmcnamee]

Me too, but a worn front axle u-joints will cause a "bind", which will cause the steering wheel to bounced right to left whe turning. The front axle u-joints have been checked and are in good shape.



Thanks

Ryan

 

[biggy238]

Well... I know the state you wish to acheive... but EVERY component on mine except the axle shafts themselves are less than 30,000 miles old, and aligned correctly. . I don't know that what you want can be had from these trucks. You have to consider the sheer mass above the front tires. Maybe it plays a role? Sorry I couldn't help more.

 

[rmcnamee]

Problem resolved!!!! Oo. After looking at every component on the front end (box, joints, etc. ), we felt that the ball joints, while lacking any "play", were very tight. So I went out and picked up a set of upper/lower Moog units, installed them, added a little caster and what a difference! The truck tracks great, no box slop, turning effort is now acceptable/normal and it returns to center from a hard turn like it should.



Thanks everyone for the help and input,

Ryan