Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Steps to remove dash - helllllllllllp!

[PaulG1]

I need to remove the dash to get to the heater core (leak).



I found this thread with pictures - but it looks like the absolute worst repair you couldn't wish on your worst enemy.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54603&highlight



Can anyone layout the major steps and tricks to getting the dash peices apart?



I'm not sure I can get this apart without some help or else devote the next 4 weekends to it.



Thanks,



Paul

 

[DBentley]

I did the ac and heater core a few months ago and it was a project but not to bad. If you have the hayes shop manual it has every step along with pictures. 15. 00 at most auto parts stores I looked it over for 2 nites and made notes before I started. And had all the parts in the shop ready to go along with antifreeze new heater hoses clamps. The dash kind of tilts out of the way and can be bungy corded to the grab handle while you remove the heater box. Also you need to remove ac lines at firewall with those quick disconnect tools. I cant remember all the steps now but the hayes manual made the job real straight forward and i got it done in 2 afternoons of working on it. Those ac cores arent made to good and go often so get a new one in there at the same time if your keeping the truck.

Pm me if you run into any snags

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I wrote it up for the magazine several months ago. I don't know when it will appear. It can be done in a day, just pulling the dash away without removing it completely. I did not disconnect the AC. It is a hassle though.

 

[Joe G.]

It helps a lot if you remove the seats first.

 

[Matt42]

I didn't remove the seats, and managed. It would have been easier if I had removed just the driver seat. It would also have helped if the driver seat could move just an inch farther back. Also, I didn't remove the whole dashboard. I just got it to the point where I could rotate the right part of the dash up and back. Then I propped it up on a dowel about 24 inches long.



If you live where there's a lot of heat and sunlight, you might need to replace the pastic anchors that the dash top screws into, or live with vibration and squeaks.



Now that I know how to do it, I hope to never do it again.

 

[RT66DOC]

Had my A/C evap replaced a couple months ago. The tech that did it - Benji - said "Yea, it's a PITA but it's probably THE EASIEST ONE" out of all the vehicles he works on. I asked him if he wanted me to bring in the Haynes and FSM. He said thanks but he's done so many he knows all the steps by rote. He had the job done in about five hours. BTW, Benji weighs >300 lbs. I have no idea how he got in there with the dash dropped down but he didn't remove any seats. I waited the whole time but couldn't bear to watch the operation. Put it back together tight as a drum - no squeeks or rattles. Was worth every penny to farm that job out.



Maybe I'll ask him to change my fuel filter for me.

 

[PaulG1]

Thanks All - good input and it helps a lot.



I recieved some excellent instructions from Joe D. It should be possible to do without breaking the AC lines. TDR would gain much value to publish Joe's article.



Quotes to have this done is $550 labor + AC labor + heater core cost, so about 800 to $1000 for a $30 heater core (I think I should have lived 50 yrs ago!)



So as much as I'm going to hate this job - I'll be doing it myself.



Are the 2003's this bad if you had to change one?



Paul

 

[DPinkston]

Why do the engineers at ALL the manufacturers nowadays design vehicles that have to have the dashes removed to change heater cores/evaporators? Is it a condition of receiving their degree that they must swear an oath to make what should be a 30 minute job take hours or days? With CAD and common sense there is no excuse for such nonsense.

Sorry Guys. End of rant.

Danny

 

[Evil Otto]

hey paul it real simple. if i was you i would replace the ac evap. while your there. if it has not leaked it will start soon save your self the time and money and do it all at once. just go to a good shop and ask them if they will pull down your ac system while you change your evap. most guys will do it. its quick money ask for how much r134 came out so they will not charge you more to recharge it for new r134 when they have your old. i would take out the dash if i was you. it makes for an easy r&r on the heater box and less of a chance of damaging the new core & evap when you reinstall it. it took me and a friend about 3 hrs to do the job. read the book and it falls right out. if you need some info coppied from the book let me know. pm me with you info and i will mail it to you.



ED