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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stereo blowing I.O.D. Fuse

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Long time reader, first time poster...

I've got a problem that I can't solve. Maybe some of your ETs can help me out.

My JVC MP3/CD Player which I've had for almost a year developed a bad habit of destroying the IOD fuse the moment I try to turn the radio on. Right before the lights literally go out, I hear the radio choke relay clicking a few times.

I've pulled the radio out, checked the voltage on Pins 6&7, and looked for ground on the non-grounded pins. Short of tearing into the speakers on the doors and the back of the truck, is there anything that I should look for?

With only the grey connector attached to the wiring harness, the radio lights up and looks OK. As soon as I plug in the black connector the radio choke relay clicks a few times, the radio display goes dead and then one second later, the IOD fuse lets go.

Ironically, this happened right after I had the windshield replaced. Might the shop have accidentally cut into a wire??

This thing is driving me nuts. 350 mile drives across the desert are so much longer when you have nothing to listen to, other than hum of the Cummin Diesel...

If you have any ideas or suggestions, I'll give them a shot. If not, I'll have to take the rig over to a stereo installer and see if they gouge me for some money... .



Thanks for any advice... .

__________________



Martin



'94 RAM 2500, LB, 4x4, Automatic, EGT/Turbo Gages, PrimeLoc, EZDrain, Toyo M-55, Rancho RS-9000, Straight-Piped, Whelen Electronic Air Horn/PA, CPI 100-Watt Under-the-Bumper Speaker, FT-5100, IC-2100H, BC-780XLT, /\/\-Saber SVA, Larson & MaxRad NMO VHF/UHF antennas, Austin Spectra Scanner antenna;
 
Radio

Not much experience here, especially with the newer stuff. I would look at the wire from the radio that triggers an auto antenni or amplifier, it might have got pinched in the windshield job. bg
 
Spent the entire weekend tearing into the dash, the speakers and the wiring looms.

The speakers are not shorted anywhere. The problem starts as soon as I plug in the radio choke/relay. I have no way of testing the relay, but I could see a 5 Ohm resistance across the coil. Does anyone know what reading is suppose to be on this coil?





Maybe it's time to buy a new truck... .



Martin
 
Try wiring your stereo by itself to a new spot on the fuse block. Maybe the demands that is puts on the circuit is too much for the current fuse vs. the stock radio & tape deck. Did you "bomb" the new stereo to higher wattage?:D
 
I've been using this MP3 player for about 8 months. I wired the radio in myself. This new player replaced an older Kenwood CD player, which was preceeded by the factory Casette/FM Player.

No aftermarket amps, speakers, tuners, etc. were added.

For now, I've ordered a replacement choke/relay from Dodge. Paid $42, plus an additional $6 expedite fee. It'll be here by the end of this week.

I'll keep you posted on my progress, or lack thereof.
 
Mick,

I think you are right. Resistance is way too low.

However, if that does not solve my problem, I'll have to let the smoke out just far enough to see where the short-circuit is... .
 
Received that new choke/relay today, and prior to plugging the new module in, I figure I check the resistance real quick, just in case.

The resistance is the same value as my suspected bad module, 5 Ohms...

I guess I'll be spending some time under the dash chasing wires and looking for 'hot spots'. What a way to spend the weekend. :mad:

Expect to hear back from me by Monday, attitude permitting.
 
Stereo blowing I.O.D. Fuse - Fixed

Diagnostics revealed that one of the speakers inside the door panel was bad. After looking at the original radio, it was of no surprise. Why it took so long to finally blow up, is beyond me.

The original radio was only putting out 7 watts per channel. Hence the amplifier is required to drive the 35 watt speakers inside the door panels. My replacement MP3 player is putting out 50 watts per channel. The amplifier sees this beefed up signal and then tries to dump the already further enhanced signal into those poor underpowered speakers.

Solution: Replaced the speakers with some nicely 200 watt rated Pioneer speakers; bypassed the relay and wired new speakers directly into the stereo's circuitry.

Cost: $200 for a set of speakers and cable, along with 2 hrs of time.

While I'm not an audiophile, I can already appreciate the higher quality of those speakers. These things sound so much crisper and cleaner. No distortion whatsoever at the higher dB levels. Makes me wonder how I could've lived so long without them.



Thanks for all of your input and advise. 'fortunate1' inquired if I had 'bombed' my stereo. Apparently I did; the dead speaker is the 'smoking gun'.



--Martin--
 
IOD fuse

Nevada Bad Boy,



What is an IOD fuse; are they different than regular fuses or circut breakers? I also live in Carson City.
 
IOD stands for Ignition Off Drain. It's a regular 15 Amp fuse, located in the fuse panel on the left side of the cab. That fuse keeps the power going while the ignition key is tured off. It powers the interior lights, the radio's clock/memory and possibly other low current devices.



Sure glad that this chapter has been closed. My next project will be the KDP Fix. Awaiting the arrival of KDP Jig. If anyone in Northern Nevada needs to have this surgery done, please contact me and I can arrange for delivery.



jmtandem, are you in need of the KDP Jig??





--Martin--
 
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