Stereo Installs: Serious audiophile only need reply

[JasonCzerak]

I'm looking to do some audio upgrades. The info thus far on this site has been not all that helpful.

I'm looking for some serious installs. Stuff like the under center console sub just won't do. I've posted this in the 3rd gen forum because any posts about installs in 2nd gens are moot in 03' and up cases.

I'm looking for information on head units, amp and amp locations, sub boxes for under seat installs, Wiring suggestions. I'm looking for stock appearing! I do not wanna re-mount the rear seat, it needs to be in factory location for safety reasons!

I'm also looking to hear some of these systems, if your in the MSP area and can push over 140DB in your truck, I'd like to hear it!

I have 2 older kenwood amps, PS400m and KAC-848. These SHOULD fit nicely under the front seats. the PS400m will need an addition custom "cover" to hid part of it.....

REAR mids/highs: I have a set of component speakers that I'd like to put in the rear doors. How has anyone mounted the tweet back there? what about the cross over?

Front mids/highs: I'd like to replace the stock 6x9's with some 6 1/2 and tweets in the dash. Same question as above... Who makes a nice speakers here?

Head unit: 4volt pre-out. Built in EQ (9 bands atleast). 3 pre-outs (sub, front,rear). Ipod, XM/sirus, and HD capable. $300-400 range. built in amp for the mid/highs can be done with out. However, I can bridge my mid/high amp, so the head unit powering the rear mids/highs only is not a bad idea and then I can have a bit more juice for hte fronts... ... I think I just changed my mind on this idea

Subs:

MTX, JL Audio make pre-fabbed boxes, all for 2 10's and one has a single 12. Today while visiting the different audio stores I seen a box that had a setup in a 1500 dodge QC that had 2 12"s. It wasn't all that loud by any means. I wasn't impressed. 2 JL W3's with 1000watts and it sounded like crap.

I'm not ruling 12's out just yet.

Custom fiberglass box may just be the trick to get a nice set of 12's sounding good. (then I can use my current set of 12" subs... . ) This may just allow me to break even here with the costs of a box + subs if I can use what I already have...

The trick here I suppose is to leave the top part of this custom box re-moveable kinda, and allow to be replaced with holes for 10" subs if the 12"s don't work out to well...

I have gotten quotes from about $350 - 400 for some custom fiber glass stuff.

I figured I can get all the parts and what not made for well under $1000

 

[chuckwilson]

I got 2 12" under my back seat,replaced all stock speakers with infinitys, with alpine/xm in dash & amps under drivers & center seat!! If I had more I couldnt here my turbo!!!!!!!!!!

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

If hooked up correctly with the proper equipment, 2 10's can and will hit alot harder than 2 12's.

 

[JasonCzerak]

If hooked up correctly with the proper equipment, 2 10's can and will hit alot harder than 2 12's.

12's as I've worked with back in the day (read: years ago). were the best of both words. Ideally you want a set of 10's and a set of 15's for some good over all bass, kinda like a mid and a tweeter of the low freq world.



Since I have a set of 12's that are rather low profile in comparison to even 10's to day I think I'll try these first.



I pulled the Phone Gold 12's out of the old box. it was an SPL with 1. 5 Cubic foot per side and kinda held them in place. The box should rise up about 1. 5 inches up from the floor's "sides". maybe even more then that can be had? At this point you can kinda spill over to gain some more room as you place hte speaker closer to the front seats.



If we plan this box right, re-building a top section and just screwing it back in place would be awesome should I wanna change things out. If these don't work out or break, I'll prolly for sure go with a set of 10's.

 

[JasonCzerak]

Hey you MODS!!!

Errr, never mind... I dummied up the original location

 

[wolfman00hd]

I redid the entire system in my 04 QC the day after I took delivery. I can't chime in on multiply amp locations since I used a massive 5ch amp for the whole truck. After removing the fold flat floor, I mounted my amp under rear driver seat over void area under flip up seat. I am overly pleased w/JL premade enclosure under rear passenger seat w/1 10". I installed component JL's in the rear doors (tweeters surface mounted) and JL 6 1/2" in the front doors. the overall sound in the truck is outstanding and while I paid more for the JL equipment, it is all I'll ever buy again. Probably not the 140dB you're asking for but I'm sure it's more than possible.



Wolfman

 

[JasonCzerak]

I redid the entire system in my 04 QC the day after I took delivery. I can't chime in on multiply amp locations since I used a massive 5ch amp for the whole truck. After removing the fold flat floor, I mounted my amp under rear driver seat over void area under flip up seat. I am overly pleased w/JL premade enclosure under rear passenger seat w/1 10". I installed component JL's in the rear doors (tweeters surface mounted) and JL 6 1/2" in the front doors. the overall sound in the truck is outstanding and while I paid more for the JL equipment, it is all I'll ever buy again. Probably not the 140dB you're asking for but I'm sure it's more than possible.



Wolfman

I'm curious how you mounted the rears and were you placed the tweets and cross over boxes. . Do you have pictures.

 

[ENafziger]

Well, I don't know if I'd be considered a serious audiophile, but here's what I learned doing my install.

I redid the entire system, using only the factory head unit. I, too, wanted a component system, and I chose to use 2 sets of the Infinity Perfect 6. 5" component systems, including external crossovers.

One of the best things I did when starting is to add a painless fuse block. This is the perfect way (and safe) to power accessories, have constant power, switched ignition power, etc.

I used a JL Cleansweep to interface between the factory head unit, and amps. This worked really well, and offers and additional input for whatever, and automatically corrects for gain differences, etc. You can easily hook up laptop audio, DVD, cell phone, electric fiddle, etc and have complete control of EQ, etc.

To get the 6. 5" to fit in the front doors, I made some aluminum plate in the shape of the factory 6x9's and cut the proper size hole in the center to mount the new speakers... time consuming but turned out well. For the front tweeters, I used the factory location on the top of the dash, and had to make custom aluminum plates for these as well.

In the rear, the 6. 5's fit in the factory location. I mounted the rear tweeters on the rear pillar on each side, facing forward, about mid-way up. I'll try to take pics, but these turned out really well too.

I used a Kenwood DSP unit for imaging, eq, etc, and again, made a custom aluminum plate to mount in the cubby hole under the factory head unit. Not the best pic, but you get the idea...

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I ran all new wire to everything... I bet I spent 40 hours at least soldering, running wire, etc. To run new wire to the door speakers, I disassembled the factory harness, and found the biggest "blank" location in the plug. I drilled a hole through the plug, ran new wire (10 gauge), and reinstalled. It looks factory, and no wires are exposed.

I mounted a 4-way Infinity amp under the front driver's seat, and it fits perfectly in everyway... no interference with the seat in any position. I ran some of these wires under the carpet for a cleaner look.

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This amp powers the 2 sets of component speakers. I had a custom hotbox enclosure built to house a 12" JL W6 sub. It raised the armrest 3" for proper volume, but it sounds great. I had a 10" JL Stealthbox under the rear seat, and it just didn't sound like I wanted. The 12" in the center really hits pretty good... makes the rear view mirror unusable, and gives a pretty good massage! If I had it to do over, I'd probably make a center box myself. If you look again at the first pic, you'll see I had to make a custom shifter. The stock one hit the cupholders and hotbox, and you couldn't get into 2, 4, or 6th gear... a little inconvenient!

The amp for the sub (Rockford Fosgate) , cleansweep, and crossovers are mounted under the rear seat. This pic is in the process... after the wires are all routed and hidden, it looks great.

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Not sure much what else to say... I think the Infinity perfect's sound good, but some people would probably recommend the Focal's. The rear speakers don't seem to make as much of a difference in sound quality as the fronts. If you end up going with something in the center section, there is a airbag/seat belt control box on the transmission hump that you have to work around. Jack is located under passenger seat, but could be removed for another amp.

I also used FatMat on everything, and it made a huge difference as well. A lot of work, but it's doable in a night!

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Let me know if I can help you out... --Eric

 

[JasonCzerak]

Eric, that is an exceptional job. Very well done!.



I haven't given much thought to the dynomat/sound proofing. Tho costs may be a concern here.



Any idea how much you needed to cover things? How much extra weight did it add?

 

[ENafziger]

The sound deadening material came in 50 square feet rolls, and I got two of them, giving 100 sq ft. This was plenty to do the back wall of the cab, all side pillars, the entire floor, all four doors, and still have a little left over.

If I remember right, the shipping weight was right at 40lbs. I did mine in one night (including gutting interior and reinstalling) with the help of a friend, but it took until 3 a. m. ... not fun when you have to be up again for work in 2 hours!

I also pulled the headliner down to insulate it as well, but it just wasn't worth it. I have a quad cab with sunroof and side air bags. With this and all the other wiring up there, there simply wasn't much room left to cover with FatMat.

It seems like I paid about $70 for both rolls on ebay, and it requires a lot of work. It really helped out though. It's one of those things that I'm really glad I did, but if I had to do it over, I'd be reluctant knowing how much work it is! Great mod though. If you were closer, I'd be glad to help out... --Eric

 

[MStrain]

I have a sub box that I bought on ebay for $150, the box fits right where the front center seat was, it bolts into the factory locations and the center console bolts right into it. The only thing is it brought up the center console about 2 or 3 niches, but I am used to it and prefer it now, its also covered with factory cloth. I have one 12 inch infinity kappa single voice coil sub in the box which is sealed, it is powered by a nakamichi amp that is under the drivers seat, putting out 200 watts bridged. I changed out the factory head unit with a JVC that has sirius and an sd card slot so I can play MP3's , the door speakers have all been replaced with inifinity kappa's, 5x7's in the front and 5. 25" in the rear. Overall very good sound quality, the sub hits down to 20 hz easily, and is very punchy. I am not trying to win a SPL competition, but I do know about good sound, I install AV systems for a living and have probably invested close to 20K in my system at home, I can do serious listening at home. The truck is above average, heck I mostly listen to Howard Stern and Bubba the Love Sponge when I'm driving, but when I do play music it is very good. The biggest problem acoustically with my truck is engine noise, it kills most low level detail, I think I will eventually dynomat the cab like the guy above, nice job by the way. My sub is great because I retain all the storage in the back seat and my truck looks stock inside but actually hits hard in the bass department.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

I haven't given much thought to the dynomat/sound proofing. Tho costs may be a concern here.



Any idea how much you needed to cover things? How much extra weight did it add?

Theese are the basic elements of a proper system. 70% coverage per panel is sufficient. On my doors I used Fatmat and 90% is my coverage area (Inside skin and on the panel mount face too) Those house my 6. 5 components (Boston Pro) and the difference with and without is scary. I Dynamat Extreemed the back cab wall and floor of the truck in '01 when I knew what I was going to do componentry. Which is a single JL Sw12 that is driven at 2 ohms stable @ 600 watts. It feels like 3 10's



I used this style as you can mold asphault based deadeners into what ever you whant with enough heat and I was able to match every nuuance of every contour inside the truck. The rear doors are boston pro's and the doors were matted inside and on the panel mount facia. Road noise reduction is essential to a system's efficiency. So is the elimination of reverbency or sound reflection. reduce one and eliminate the next and you allready are ahead of the game.



Serious audiophiles need not question cost :-laf



Weight ... . well if it is a concern (Remembering theese are little teeny inline six DIESELS) Dynamat is ashphault based and therefore is heavier by nature, Fatmat has a high density rubber compound and weighs less and has the same if not a touch better sound absorbtion per sq inch as the others. I found that the adheesion of fatmat is stronger in colder climates. So in the worst case scenereo you are adding 160 lbs spread out the entire truck on the heavy side.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

As an experiment knock on a license plate with your knuckle, next knock on it with a spoonful size dab of peanut butter in the middle and do it again. The "Note" will change dramatticly. You in a sense are dissrupting the way sound reverberates and travels through metal.

 

[JasonCzerak]

I know first hand the reasons behind matting the truck. My jeep made a huge difference in sound levels and vibrations. Infact you could hardly hear the stereo out side the jeep with the windows up, with exception of the roof expanding 1" or so with every hit.



I just didn't think I was going to go that far with this truck, and thus didn't really put much thought into matting things. I suppose I'll reconsider this. naturally this makes the project a step up in scale since more will have to be done at the same time.



I'm looking for creative and unique ways of wiring up amps, subs, and what not and I've got a few ideas brewing from you guys, thanks.



Next I suppose is to find that perfectly match head unit and set of front speakers and source some wire and what not.



tomorrow or sunday if once the weather passes I'll hook up the rear rockfords in the doors. My issue right now, with out looking at things, is where to put te cross overs since I plan to use the entire area under the rear seats for the subs. Is there room within the doors? If I can't stuff them in the doors, I'll just have to wait until the sub box is built and mount them to the top of that.

 

[JasonCzerak]

ENafziger

ENafziger, I see you blocked the HVAC vents in the back. Any HVAC surprises?

 

[ENafziger]

Actually, I ended up cutting around the HVAC flappers on the rear wall. It turns out, that with the molded black foam padding, and the rear seat in place, not much road noise is transmitted through them.

I took some more pictures this weekend. Here's one showing the rear tweeter placement...

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Here's the crossovers and sub amp, with as much wiring as possible toward the rear and hidden. Seatbelts still aren't installed yet though.

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One of the aluminum mounting plates for the front tweeter...

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Here's the dash almost back together, showing the equalizer unit or DSP unit in place of the stock cubby hole.

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And finally, the sub enclosure in the center seat section. The material match is near perfect, but the shape is a little "square". I always keep the armrest down though.

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--Eric

 

[Triton]

nice write ups but, the pics are gone

 

[ENafziger]

nice write ups but, the pics are gone

Yeah, check back today. I have them hosted through imagestation.com, and the website was down yesterday. They're back up and running...

--Eric