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sticking throttle

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Just got back from a 500 mile trip, and noticed throttle was sticking. I cleaned all cables, felt for any fraying"none found", then used some lightweight oil on cables. Still sticks. Engine doesn't idle down below 900rpm. Any thoughts before I start replacing cables? Thanks in advance.

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96 3500 ext. cab 4x4 auto. tst 230/605 kit. haul 11. 5 slidein camper, and tow cj7 on trailor. gross wt. 16000+lbs.
 
Have you lubed the throttle rod from the lever where the throttle cable attaches and the lever on the pump? The ends can get bad if they are dry.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver, KDP 160,000-NM-WT Insurance
 
Mine stuck just off idle until I sprayed the behind the arm and shaft on the assembly the cables hook to. I used a silicone spray because it won't turn into lapping compound when exposed to dust. I always wondered if my frayed cable was a result of the dealer tech lubing it with something "sticky".

If its sticking at high RPMs, good luck my friend!
 
I had the same thing happen to me. I thought I just needed a heavier return spring. I kept adding springs until I couldn't push the pedal down anymore and the problem still persisted. It's not the cable, but rather inside the linkeage assembly. You must disassemble as though you were replacing the cable. That means all three cables come off, as does the throtle rod (If you attempt to change the length of the rod, remember that one side has left hand threads, while the other side has right hand threads. I didn't remember and it was a $60. 00 whoops to the dodge dealer for a new rod) Then unbolt the unit from the block. Pop the spring off the tension nub and then remove the spring clips on either end. When you separate the two pieces you will find a plastic sleeve which the pin rides in. The pin will be rusted and probably be soaked with the WD-40 that didn't work. I wire brushed mine clean, and then applied a lithium based water resistant grease and slapped it all together and removed 3 of the 4 return springs i had on there and now everything works fine.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I do believe it was the metal rod. When I first noticed the sticking, I was able to get a little squirt of Marval Oil on everything, which seemed to do the trick. But this weekend I'll take it apart and do it right.

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96 3500 ext. cab 4x4 auto. tst 230/605 kit. haul 11. 5 slidein camper, and tow cj7 on trailor. gross wt. 16000+lbs.
 
Anyone have the Part number for the return spring... Missing one. . Local. . D dealer didn't have a clue. . #ad
Thanks
Bryan

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1995 Extended Cab 3500, 3. 54 gears/Automatic,K&N w/ lost Cat.
 
Mine was sticking between 900 and 1100 rpms but only after long drives of 2 hours or more. It turned out that one of the mounting brackets for the linkage had some loose hardware. This allowed the linkage to get into a bind when it tried to return to idle. Tightened the screws and have not had a problem since. Check this before you tear the whole thing down. Mine had 75K miles when this happened.



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Bill Littlefield
'95, 2500, 4x4, 5sp
 
There are a couple of screws that attach the throttle lever to the lever on the pump. These can get loose and cause a problem. You need an 8mm wrench and a long arm to tighten them. They may be the ones Bill mentioned.
 
Well I'm back. Was just starting to disassemble linkage on throttle when I saw cable was starting to fray. Mine has the plastic nose cone over wire. I'm in the process of searching back issues , hoping to find if there is a recall yet.

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96 3500 ext. cab 4x4 auto. tst 230/605 kit. haul 11. 5 slidein camper, and tow cj7 on trailor. gross wt. 16000+lbs.
 
I think there has been a recall on the cable. . at least I heard out one, but I have never seen it. . have a 95 that is doing the same. . I think the recall, is a recent recall. . if you find it. . let us know. . thanks

Bryan
 
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