Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Stock plate -vs- #10

[Tom C]

for those of you have tried both...





I have the stock fuel plate full forward. Power band begins at about 1800 rpm then continues till red line. EGT temps go up real fast and can easily hit 1500° when I floor it. (of course I don't let it get that hot)



Will a #10 plate give me more power than I currently have or will it just spread the power out in different spots (rpms/boost levels).



Will taking the plate out give the most power available? What are pro's/Cons of no plate? (other than out of control EGT's).



I'm getting ready to do a #10, 3K gsk, and AFC springs. My Pumps been treeked and with the plate full forward it runs real strong with max boost noted at 30PSI (I have the stock boost elbow) and I get full power until gov cutoff at 3300RPM. (Ive seen it hit 3400rpm). would like to know if my planned mod's will give me a noticeable power increase?



Thanks,



Tom C

 

[Got Smoke?]

I have the 3K GSK in my 97 with my factory plate full forward and it comes on strong about 1500RPM and pulls HARD all the way to 3000RPM (I let off @ about 2800-2900). Your right about the EGT's going up, however I have only seen 1300 in my full throttle blast's.



Ok with that addressed let me begin to tell you about my homework on the #10 plate. When I started doing research for bombing I knew the first thing I was going to have to do was replace my clutch (bought truck @ 122K w/supposed "factory clutch). Well I wanted the most power out of any plate I could put in and TST's chart said #10 was the highest so that's what I wanted. After talking with several people the main opinion was to get a new clutch before adding the plate. So I saved and saved until I could get my new clutch, and then it just so happened my #10 fell into my lap from a friend in KY. Oo.



Anyhow back to what I was trying to advise you of.

1st your going to have to get a new clutch if you expect to hold the power jump from stock to a #10.

2nd its going to give you a REALLY nice boost in power!(hench clutch)

3rd its going to increase your EGT's a little so you might have to add one of three things new air intake, straightpiped or 4" exhaust (too pricey 4 me ), or a bigger turbo housing.



My opinion you can get by with a AFE mega cannon. My plans call for a Scotty II though with the ability to run the cowl hole, but have it blocked off the majority of the time.



If I haven't totally wrecked this post and confused you feel free to ask any more questions

 

[illflem]

You'll like the #10, it's a hot plate for a '95 while it's mild for later years.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by illflem

You'll like the #10, it's a hot plate for a '95 while it's mild for later years.

Really Bill



Then what's hot for later years?

 

[T. Baker]

You probably read my other post about ripping the hub out of my clutch. I have been running with no plate for about 10k miles. It works great except if you put you foot on the accelerator peddel when starting it goes to full fuel for a moment before the govenor pulls it back and will blow black smoke. I'm going to put a plate back in it. There is too much bottom end torque and more things are going to break if I don't put a plate back in.

 

[Tom C]

T. Baker, Nice Terra Pickup. I used to have a '79 and a couple of scout II's. I wish I never sold the Terra. But I got into the older landcruisers



Tom

 

[BigBadDodge]

Ditto on what GotSmoke said, you will need to replace the clutch if you get the #10 my egt's can go through the roof if I hammer it stock turbo, but I have plan for that soon.



BBD

 

[dalton4]

Tom, by the chart, the #10 in your 95 5speed will produce 220 hp and 570 ft. lbs. of torque.

 

[Woodenhead]

The #10 was the first mod I did to my truck. I already had a K&N in the stock box and cleaned up the exhaust (no cat, no muff) and gauges of course.



With the plate in the stock position the stock clutch took it with 120k mi on the clutch. I did baby it though cause I had a constant fear of cooking the clutch. That doesn't mean it never saw hard exceleration, I just made sure the clutch hooked up before I got on the skinny peddle.



I didn't tow much with it but with no load I could run it to the boards for a long time before I saw high egt's. I'd need a pretty long steep grade and keep my foot to the floor to see 1200*.



Take Care

Mike

 

[Tom C]

does the K&N air filter really let that much more air through?



There was one in the truck when I got it. I just replaced it with a Fleetguard element. EGT's dont seem any different with the fleetguard and I dont have to get my fingers dirty cleaning the K&N



As for 220/570??? where did those #'s come from?



#ad




seeing I have a '95 with a modified pump and the #10 is not directly designed for my truck, I think it will be hard to come up with some numbers.



thanks for the input.



Tom

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by Got Smoke?

Really Bill



Then what's hot for later years?

#4 though #8 are hotter.

Even though #10 isn't recommended by TST for '95 it is the most recommended plate for them by Piers.

 

[esommer2500]

Just when this was making sense...

why is a #8 hotter than a #4?

 

[Forrest]

#4 is hotter than the #8. I've had both in the 215 pump.