storing the truck for the winter

[JDMills]

I am going to be running a winter rig in the salty months, with the CDT truck in storage. (shed, with out a foundation, real wet in the spring) would it be smart to block the intake, and exhaust to reduce moisture? Or should I just start it once a month? one fella told me that will just cause condensation in the engine? so not to bother. Any opinions?

 

[Greenleaf]

OK,,,,, this is a sore subject for me!

I got these old tractors in the garage I rebuilt and seldom use. John Deere Two Cylinders. After spending countless hours AND tons of $$$$$$$$$$$ they set there, because I'm no farmer. Just like the looks/sound of those Two-Cylinders. Well, there they set. The inners collect so much moisture it literally fills the castings with water. Destroys the bearings... . The generator will cease to function and starter will short out. Temp guage sticks and fuel goes bad[both gas and diesel]Oh, the batteries are dead. When you run it again the head gasket will blow..... And the thermostat? Kiss it good-by.



Not related to our CTD you say... . My winter pick- up still isn't right. Got it up and running last week. First time I stepped on the brakes a line burst! The master cylinder hung up too Parking brake cable is hung up now



Yes Sr, parking a vehicle [and tractor] is darn hard on 'em. Watch the rear brakes. If applied,the shoes will seize to the drum :{



Wont be driving mine this winter. I plan on running it time to time and driving it around the house to keep things working [I hope]



Hope you don't have any mice in the area... ..... and I like smoked swiss cheese with my whine



Greenleaf

P. S. Ever see that black slime grow inside a diesel fuel tank?????

 

[JLEONARD]

Engine wise I can tell you what I do for winter with my boat diesel engine... . it should apply to your situation...

Change the oil.

I block the exhaust outlet to prevent moisture from entering. . there's a valve open somewhere.

Plastic bag around the intake or air filter... and sealed.

Drain the water out of the fuel filter.



I am not in favor of starting up every month... . or turning it over for that matter. That is a dry start, and that is what is most damaging to bearings. Also there is the condensation issue you spoke of.

Just leave it sit.

In the spring, loosen a fuel line(s) or remove the solenoid wire so it doesn't start and crank it over until you have oil pressure registering on the gage. Then hook up whatever you disabled and bring her to life.

You shouldn't get slime growing in your fuel tank during the winter, but it wouldn't hurt to keep the tank near full and add whatever is your favorite additive to the tank.

This is what most of the boters I know do and it seems to work.

Or loan the truck to me for the winter and I'll "babysit" her for you!!

Jay

 

[JDMills]

Sorry to hit a sore spot Greenleaf. Good luck with the two bangers. I used to have a 49 B. They are nice tractors, simple, rugged, well built. In a round about way, I sold it to make room for the Dodge.

Thanks for your advice Jay. I will put all your suggestions to work.

Jason

 

[hdm48]

Here is what a friend of mine does for their mining equipment in Alaska. Fill the tank, use a anti-rotting agent (sta-bil?), change the oil and filter, and now the best part--while the engine is running for the last time, spray some wd40 into the intake then shut in down, cover all holes to/from engine, duct tape all places where rodents can chew their way in, spray all joints and exposed metal with wd40, put a RV moisture can in interior (check monthly).

Oh, and try to park it with "sand" under the tires. Anything else will either cause rot or dimple the tires.

But what you could do is drive it when the weather permits. Salt or no salt, on a dry day, it should be safe.





Dave

 

[JDMills]

Dave,

I like the WD-40 idea, on all the exposed parts, yet being that it is flammable, will there be any issue with it acting like a starting fluid in the motor? I have heard that people use WD-40 as starting fluid in a pinch on gas engines.

Jason

 

[Greenleaf]

WD-40 acts as a starting agent, often times used on the sensitive Detroit Diesel Two-Strokes which are known to break compression rings when used with excessive ether. Don't know why they are. Just are. Personally, I used to use ether, right,wrong,or indifferent.



Scott

 

[JLEONARD]

I've used WD 40 for starting gas engines, and diesels... . many times.

A trick for pesky small gas engines is to remove the spark plug (remember what those are?) and sray WD into the cylinder. Replace the plug and guaranteed to at least fire up. Usually that's enough to get the fuel system working.



WD is basically kerosene, so I see no value of putting it into the internals for storage... diesel will do just fine.

WD is great for the external parts...

Another tip is to remove the serpentine belt to take tension off the bearings and tensioner... keeps the belt from taking a set. Not bad with a serpentine, but the old V belts would set that you could hear sometimes...

 

[hdm48]

Oh, OK, let me clear this up a little. When I said spray some wd40 into the intake, I SHOULD have said to spray it in SLOWLY and let the RPMs come back down then do it again, then shut it off right away so as not to wash off the coating. What this does is coat everything with a little oil and no, it won't blow up as long as you don't let it rev to the moon. And it will go away after putting the rig back into service.



Sorry I wasn't clear.



Dave

 

[Greenleaf]

Huh???

remove the spark plug (remember what those are?)

 

[RGT]

you should also put down a ground cover to minnimize any moisture from the ground condensing on the underside of the truck..... put several mouse traps around the truck and check and rebait once in a while...