Strange electrical happenings in a 2010

[DonFitzwater]

Here's the deal, jump in the truck to start it, put the fobik in the dash and turn it to the crank position to start. Electric starter bumps for a split second then all power disappears (dash, interior, gauges all turn off like the batteries are totally dead). Turn the fobik off and then back on and it fires up normally. It does do this more so if the engine is up to temp and everything under the hood is heat soaked.

Another potentially related issue is an occasional battery light coming on (on the dash). Also, yesterday it went into what I think is a limp mode. Very limited throttle response and virtually no turbo spool. No check engine lights so this has me a little stumped..........

What I've done up to this point is check all battery connections, cables and load test the batteries-all clean and good.

Any ideas or similar experiences?

 

[gtoli]

Quite the mystery

 

[DonFitzwater]

Must be from the lack of responses. I'm going to pull it in the shop tomorrow and check every connection under the truck as well as additional grounds wires. If nothing turns up she's going to the dealer...............

 

[slingshot383]

There have been lots of complaints about the factory batteries. If yours are original, you might have to bite that $300.00+ bullet and get a new pair.

 

[mwilson]

Must be from the lack of responses. I'm going to pull it in the shop tomorrow and check every connection under the truck as well as additional grounds wires. If nothing turns up she's going to the dealer...............

Sorry I missed this post. Too busy watching for sinkholes here in Orlando.

If all common sense stuff tests OK then I would head in the direction of the TIPM. Start signal goes from key fob /win module to the TIPM and then.to the starter solenoid. Just went through.this.with.the.08 mini van. Cracked or burnt board inside. You may have to point the tech in that direction.
Worth mentioning but still hope you find something simple and cheap before getting.to that point.
Mike.

 

[mwilson]

Sorry about extra periods in above post......fat thumbs and small phone keyboard are to blame.
..

 

[Hoefler]

Have the batteries tested. My bet is you have one or both bad. I had to replace mine at 40,000 miles and just 2 years old. My 08 was the same way.

 

[MLee]

Could it be a starter relay not fully seated, or bad relay? Starter solenoid contacts? wires connected to the starter? just some think to consider.

 

[sag2]

View attachment 2010 ECM C2 connector.pdf

Start with a voltage drop test on the battery cables. With your meter set on volts place one lead on the positive battery POST (as opposed to the cable clamp) and the other lead to the starter main STUD (as opposed to the cable end.) Have someone crank the engine over. You want to measure the voltage drop while cranking and you are looking for no more than .4v on the cable. As soon as the starter hit the voltage will spike up some (maybe .6v or so) but should come back down. Do the same from the driver side positive POST to the TIPM STUD. Then do both negative cables from the battery STUD to any good ground on the engine. Does not matter witch lead goes where, it will just read positive or negative voltage. If it doesn't crank long enough to get a good reading you will need to disable the fuel system to keep it from starting. Easiest way without setting a bunch of codes is break open the line from the pump to the rail, or remove an injector line to make a large leak. Be very careful to wrap the ends of the line with rags to keep any potential spray from injuring you, and catching as much diesel as possible to keep the mess down. The volume is small so it will not make a big mess like pulling a lift pump line. If the voltage is below .4v the problem is not battery cables. Next test is the neutral safety circuit, T41. Place one lead on the battery negative post, the other on the yellow/dark blue wire at the ECM C2 connector. Unfortunately you will have to pierce the wire at the ECM connector so be careful and you may want to cover the hole with liquid tape or a dab of silicone, especially if they use salt on the roads. If all the voltages are below .4v you are good, if you are over .6 or .8 you are getting on the edge. Remember you are taking the readings when the truck is starting so it isn't a perfect test, but usually it will indicate a problem in the making. If it happens to fail while you’re checking that would be perfect. The explanation of why you’re checking this is as long as this instruction, so let’s see what the results are first.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Now the latest.........truck hasn't failed to start on the first try since my last post. Working fine.....except that battery light will randomly come on. Voltage meter is in the middle as usual, no other warnings or strange occurrences. Will these trucks store a dtc when something makes the battery light come on? Anybody?

 

[Stark_Ent9802]

Now the latest.........truck hasn't failed to start on the first try since my last post. Working fine.....except that battery light will randomly come on. Voltage meter is in the middle as usual, no other warnings or strange occurrences. Will these trucks store a dtc when something makes the battery light come on? Anybody?

My 2010 had a battery short out internally and caused a bunch of screwy electrical stuff also!! Had dealer install new batteries.. never had that problem again .

 

[DonFitzwater]

I have pulled the batteries and tested on 3 separate occasions recently. They have passed with flying colors but I believe I may throw a set in as they are 4 years old now.

I'd still like to know if there are any DTC's thrown by the battery light coming on without the check engine light being on.........

 

[DonFitzwater]

Battery light is coming on fairly regular now. Once the truck is up to temp the battery light will come on and the voltmeter drops. Only does it for a few seconds each time but it's getting worse. I've noticed it seems to happen on bumps in the road or when an electrical load is placed on the truck. Heading to the dealer Monday.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Failed PCM. Dealer is ordering one today and should have it done in a week or so.

 

[sag2]

I hope they are right. They never fail, so I will be surprised if it fixes it.

 

[DonFitzwater]

I hope they are right. They never fail, so I will be surprised if it fixes it.

Me too! If not, it'll go back.

FYI- if the truck is up to temp and is idling, I can turn on the headlights and the voltmeter will drop and battery warning light will come on. The same thing happens if I turn on anything that uses electricity. Towing a boat trailer will cause the battery light to come on nearly every time the brakes are applied.

I spent a lot of time checking grounds, batteries and cables. I installed a new set of batteries and the light showed back up immediately.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Guess what Sag?! The new PCM did NOT fix the issue. The installed a PCM then the wcm stopped working so they had to replace that. Now it's still not charging AND my key fobics don't work. I just left it at the dealer and now they claim the repair procedure details replacing the alternator. The only good news is that it totally failed now so no going back!!!!!!!

 

[sag2]

Why am I not surprised?

 

[DonFitzwater]

Truck is fixed. They ended up replacing the alternator, PCM and WCM as well as both key fobs. There were dtc's that pointed the tech (I don't know what they were) towards a failed PCM but that alone didn't fix my charging issues. The alternator was my charging issue. The PCM was causing my random strange electrical failures like engine not cranking. It cranks now when I want it to and no matter what kind of electrical load is placed on it, the volt meter is steady.