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Strange PacBrake failure?

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I've had a PacBrake on my truck since 2011. Up until recently it was working great.
Just discovered that the compressor was running all the time...then I discovered the source of the problem:

The threads at the output of the compressor and the threads on the brass fitting are stripped. It looks like vibration caused this.

PacBrake wants $180 for a replacement compressor. It looks like I just need part of the compressor. Any idea if I can buy replacement parts?
Anyone else seen the type of failure?

Thanks!
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Why not just remove the head and then drill and tap it out one size larger. Also maybe add a custom rubber isolator line to the compressor head that stripped...that way there woulding be any weight on the threads. That being said, I have heard that engine mounting the pacbrake compressor wreaks havoc on it because of the extra vibrations when the mighty Cummins is running. Maybe consider remounting it somewhere else??
 
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I've definitely considered drilling and tapping. Nothing really to loose.
While doing some research tonight, I have seen several other comments about the vibrations from the cummins. Re-location is also a consideration- along with a larger tank!

Thanks for the comments

Why not just remove the head and then drill and tap it out one size larger. Also maybe add a custom rubber isolator line to the compressor head that stripped...that way there woulding be any weight on the threads. That being said, I have heard that engine mounting the pacbrake compressor wreaks havoc on it because of the extra vibrations when the mighty Cummins is running. Maybe consider remounting it somewhere else??
 
Since pipe thread is tapered it is somewhat forgiving. I would chase the threads a small amount then thread in a new coupling, all the way flush if need be, it might work.

Nick
 
And get it off the Rattler!

That head looks symmetrical, what is on the other end? If it is a plug, can you reverse the head and move the plug. It would be easier to keep the plug in a bad hole. Chris
 
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After the relay got cooked on mine I moved it off the engine and put it in an open area next to the drivers side hood hinge.

#ad
 
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You have TOO much WEIGHT hanging on the threads. You have the pressure switch hanging on the head(Green switch with Blue wires). I mounted the pressure switch on the small tank away from the compressor. I have the same Pacbrke setup on my '07, 5.9 for 6 5 years and have never had any issues with the head threads. The only CHEAPIE part they supply is the silver check valve. I have replaced mine oce. BTW, letting the compressor run too long will melt it.
 
Thanks everyone for the input.
Ugly weather today, so no chance to work under the hood.

I have nothing to loose in trying to repair it. Hopefully it didn't run too long before I discovered the problem.

I'm curious what compressor you guys have used as a replacement for the original PAC Brake compressor? The Viair 45040 450C seems like a possible option.
 
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Just looked at mine. My compressor is pointed the other way, the head is tapped on the other side but not drilled for a passage. Don't know if you could disturb the gasket and get by with it? You would still have to plug the stripped side. bg
 
Thought I'd pass along the latest developments:

1. I contacted Viair looking for a replacement head. They confirmed that this was NOT their compressor...and thus they didn't have any parts to sell me.
2. I looked at a few stores for a tap, but had difficulty sourcing one locally...Google solved that problem
3. I decided to contact Pac Brake one more time to try and buy a replacement head. They called this afternoon and said they would ship me a replacement head and check valve :)

So I will still tap the old head and keep it as a replacement. When the compressor completely dies, I will be shopping for something bigger that can actually be used to air up tires.

Thanks everyone for your input!
 
Add me to the "anyone else" with the failure. Mine only leaks bad at this time and won't tighten up to stop leaks. Absolutely the above advice about the vibration added to the excess leverage of this long length of pipe fittings and too much weight would look to be common sense for the head threads to take.

At first I would think the shut off switch should be mounted on the air tank yet it may be there for ease of servicing and ice issues. In that case eliminate the stupid "T" fitting and excess leverage this long length of pipe fittings design has and tap the other side of the compressor head for the shut off switch. Due to clearance issues the shut off may have to go on the compressor motor side with the air lines on the other as the lines fitting is shorter.
 
Finally had a chance to replace the compressor head and put the compressor back on the truck.
After fighting some leaks, I finally get everything working.

Now that I know the compressor still works, I will plan to relocate some of the fittings- possibly even relocate the entire compressor.

After some compressor research, I've decided that I really need to add a more powerful compressor and larger tank to my wish list.
But first I have to replace the leaking heater core on my CJ7, plus install a new rear main seal. I've gotta say, I'm glad I don't have to replace the heater core on the Dodge :rolleyes:

Thanks to everyone for their comments- TDR is a great resource!!
 
Though I have not used one, the Viair 450C is a more then decent compressor for EB operation. That being said, if I ever put OBA in my truck I will likely use an ExtremeAire Compressor mounted on the frame under the bed.

http://www.extremeoutback.com/product/8/ExtremeAire+12+Volt+Compressor+Part#+007-000.html
The first on board AC i used was mounted on the frame under bed, One trip to Utah in the winter destroyed the pump, The pump actually froze from built up snow and ice, next pump went under hood on engine and has been there for6 years with no problems
 
My PacBrake compressor has been mounted on my engine for 11 years and 184,000 miles with no problems. It was the first BOMB I did to my (then) brand new truck!

100 Proof
 
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