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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stripped bolt head

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) T-case grindage

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I am in need of advice about how to get a bolt out that the head is stripped on. Its the passenger corner afc housing bolt, it was replaced with a flat slotted screwdriver head bold and long story short, very stuck, broken drill bit in center and the head no longer has any slots. I can't seem to drill it out because a bit broke off inside my hole witch I was going to use an easy out on, so I am looking for ideas.



Thanks guys.



Shane
 
If part of the head is on the bolt try hiting the edge of it with a chisel. You want to hit it in a manner so that it trys to unscrew the bolt out of the threads.
 
If all else fails put a nut over the remains of the bolt and put a couple of blobs of weld in the nut/bolt. The heat normally helps loosen the bolt as well. Be sure to disconnect your batteries before doing this.

Good luck!
 
Shane,



Is there any part of the bolt or drill sticking out above the surface of the pump housing that you can get ahold of, or is it all broken off down in the hole (or flush)?



If there's anything sticking up, the idea of maybe tack welding a nut on has merit, even if you can only thread the nut on less than 1 turn. Just fill in the center of the nut.



If it's flush or below, that's another issue. I know what I'd do, but a machinist or mechanic might have a better approach.



-Jay
 
stripped bolt

JUst a thought, but the last time I was at Sears I saw a product that they sell for removing stripped screws and bolts. Kinda hard to explain but it looks like a drill bill with reverse "threads" and a real aggresive bite on the tip. I think the idea is to run it backwards, the bite grabbes the bolt/screw and the drill powers it out. May be worth a shot? Cant remember what its called but I have seen them on TV ad's so I guess that they would know about them.



J-
 
Another option if part of the head is still protruding is to take a die grinder and cut a new screwdriver slot in it for the largest screwdriver you can find.
 
I've found you don't even need to weld a nut on to remove a stripped bolt, just touch the head with an arc welder, the heat will make the bolt easy to remove with just pliers.
 
Ryan has the best idea of grinding a new slot. But if that dosn`t work just finish grinding the rest of the screw head off. Then take the A. F. C. housing off and use Vise Gripes on the stub that is sticking up. It should be at least 3/8 of an inch long.
 
The AFC housing and the governor housing are aluminum. Aluminum melts with too much heat.

If you have the skill, here is what I'd do. Die grinder with carbide bur to the head of the bolt until it is weakly held on. Cut off with a chisel. Vacuum or use a magnet to remove all shavings. WD40 into the hole around the threads to help free the bolt. Remove the AFC housing, use vise grips to remove the bolt, as about 1/4" is left sticking up after you remove the head.

If you don't have the skill, you need a Bosch shop before you ruin the governor housing. Originally that bolt had a slot head, and could be removed with a large screwdriver pressed into the slot by body weight, and a small wrench on the shank of the screwdriver to help turn it. You are way past that now.

Be careful not to nick the injector lines or other fuel lines. Don't get metal shavings into fuel system parts. Good luck.
 
PB Blaster is much better than WD-40. Never failed me yet.



Another option instead of PB Blaster, since the housing is aluminum, you could use some Pepsi in a squirt bottle. I have used it to help remove stuck on aluminum semi wheels.



The acid in the Pepsi is enough to help dissolve the corrosion.



I know it sounds weird, but it works. Have also used it on stuck rings on an old tractor.
 
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Sears sells a thing called a easy out. It is a socket that has a angled "threads" to grip the bolt head when it is stripped. Comes with 5 different sizes in a kit for $20. Has spots in the box for 5 more sizes.
 
Originally posted by EricBu12

Sears sells a thing called a easy out. It is a socket that has a angled "threads" to grip the bolt head when it is stripped. Comes with 5 different sizes in a kit for $20. Has spots in the box for 5 more sizes.



You can also get the whole set if you want in 1 case.
 
There is some good info here that's for sure, now the what not to do's. Don't goof around with it and get impatient and break the hole corner off the AFC housing like I did way back in time, lets just say a Tig welder is nice to have to re-build aluminum.



Let us know what happens so it can be passed on.



Jim
 
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