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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stripped Nut in Frame at control arm????

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pulled a Kenworth

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Guys, the weight of my plow, plus the addition of a

DSS installed has caused the two bolts that hold the steering contol arm on the frame to strip the nuts out. I can only get the lower bolt to thread back in and the top nut welded in the frame is completely striped. This has alread happened twice before, but was able to put a new bolt back in. There is no way to press a new nut up into the frame, due to lack of space. any suggestions would be great. Would it be possible to put one of those wall fasteners on the end of the bolt and push it up into the hole and have it spread open? thanks for the help tdr
 
Re-drill and tap it, thats your best bet IMO. When you get done, apply some anti-sieze to the threads before you install the new bolts. Good Luck.



Rob
 
How much bigger do you think I can go up on bolt size. believe the current size is 7/16, think I could tap it to a 1/2 size bolt. thanks, mark
 
Originally posted by MSloop

How much bigger do you think I can go up on bolt size. believe the current size is 7/16, think I could tap it to a 1/2 size bolt. thanks, mark



If you have stripped a hole for a 7/16 bolt, you are close to the drill size for a 1/2 bolt anyway. Run your chosen drill bit into the hole and then follow with a 1/2 tap.





Ronco
 
I have a new western mvp-the v nose plow on the ultramount. The DSS had to be cut out around where the plow mount attaches under steering/control arm. Ultimately the DSS is the reason the bolts keep on getting stripped out of the frame, according to the plow install people. sounds like a load of bs to me. mark
 
An observation on my DSS installtion. When I was installing the DSS, I noticed that I had started to strip one of the four holes in the frame for the stabilizer bar bracket.

My DSS was not the problem. The holes on the DSS lined up perfectly over each of the four holes in the frame.

My problem was that the factory stabilizer bar was not perfectly straight. When I went to reinstall it, the stabilizer bar brackets were in a 'toe-out' position and not positioned over all four holes. This caused one of the bolts to auger in a slight angle. The shorter factory bolts are tapered and help to correct for this slop factor. The longer bolts that come with the DSS are not tapered and need to be aligned correctly over the holes.

Once it realized what was happening I dissassembled everything, then chased the thread with a 10mmX1. 50 tap. When I reassembled everything I used a crowbar and heavy hammer to make sure the factory stabilizer bar brackets were positioned correctly. It bolted in nicely once those darned factory stabilizer brackets were aligned!!

Not saying that's what happened with your install, but you might want to give it a check just in case. My backup plan was to tap out a 12mmx1. 50 thread, but I didn't need to do that.
 
"I second blue 2002, Don't get jiggy with the air wrench until you know its started straight. "



Right, and get every bolt started before tightening any of them. Getting all that stuff lined up isn't real easy even when it's jacked into place.
 
Same thing happened to me, I went a bit crazy with the rear bolt on the passenger side (impact driver wrench). I stripped the nut out. It was hard to hold both the dss bracket and push back on the stabilizer braket when threading the bolts one, would have been nice to have anohter person helping. The other three bolts went in ok and were torqued to 40 ft lbs.



To attach the stripped hold end, I ended up welding the stabilizer bracket to the dss bracket, and then welded the dss bracket to the frame. If I ever need to remove, I can with a bit of grinding.



Jon
 
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