2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Stuck disk caliper - how to fix??

[canblue]

I was checking the breaks and i noticed that the right disk pad was a little thin on the outsite of the rotor as compared to the inner. How do I free up the pads. I want to replace them with

a set of Raybestos pads.

I do not have a big tool kit so if this is a shop job, let me know





Thanks.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Caliper

Put a large screwdrive in the opening in center of caliper and on the outside of the brake disc, slightly open the bleeder screw and pry untill the calipher piston is all the way back in. Now remove the two bolts from the backside of the calipher and lift it off, you now have access tothe pads. Do't allow the calipher to be supported by the brake line whikle it is off. I wouldn't worry too much about one pad being worn more than the other, not unusual. Lube the retaining bolts when reassembling and after the pads are in place, make sure the master cyl. is full of brake fluid and pump the brakes until you have good pedal before driving. bg

 

[Extreme1]

There are 3 things to cause the pads to wear like that: a siezed calipar, sticking calipar pins or rust build up on the calipar not allowing the pad to float like it should.



Jack up that side of th truck and turn the wheel by hand. Now have someone step on the brakes (hard) and it should turn easy by hand right after they release the pedal. If it doesn't, start digging.



NAPA makes a good pin lube (Syl Glide or something like that) and you need to remove them and clean the old stuff off the pins and out of the calipar.



The pad clearance can be obtained by removing the calipar and taking a flat file to the points where the pads are stopped.



If your calipar is siezed, get a reman (NAPA again-lifetime guarantee) and change all the brake fluid.



Good luck!

 

[tjm]

Had the same problem on mine. Owners manuel doesnt spec brake fluid maintenance interval. I let mine go to long. Had to replace the calipers. Not a major job. I now flush my brake fluid every 12 months.



tjm

 

[Loren]

Replacing the brake fluid is not required maintenance on our Dodges, but it should be, just like oil changes. BMW (motorcycles) requires a brake fluid flush and refill every year, at least on my bike.



As you know, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. This is the reason for the odd-looking rubber cap seal. As the fluid is used, the rubber membrane will collapse into the master cylinder, thereby keeping air away from the fluid.



This water in the brake fluid will corrode the inside of your brake system in the same manner as it does elsewhere on unprotected steel and iron. The rust then prevents parts from sliding properly, as demonstrated here.



The only cure I know is to dismantle the brake and clean off all the rough surfaces. You may have to replace a caliper or piston. Then be sure you change your brake fluid every so often.



This job is not necessarily a shop job, but you should have a brake hone, and possibly a couple of other special tools, depending on your system. It’s been quite a while since I’ve done my own brakes, so I forget which tools you will need.



My own philosophy about these special tools that I need for jobs like this is that for the price of paying a shop to do the job, I can buy the tools required. Then the next time, I’ll already have the tools.



When you reassemble everything, be sure to grease any external sliding parts with a brake grease, as mentioned above. Don’t use so much that excess will come off onto the friction surfaces.



When I did my brakes, I got pads from TDR member Sam Peterson, who runs Rapid Brake in Washington (state). His number is (360)357-4958. He’s open Monday to Friday 8:30 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. , pacific time.



Good luck,

Loren

 

[ralphr]

ditto on everything said one additional point check the slide pins holding the caliper, any little burr or imperfection can cause it to hang up. either replace with new or try your luck by polishing them with fine sand paper.

 

[Rman]

The brake grease everyone is speaking of also performs heat dissapation, and should be placed on the mating surface between the pad and caliper. As previously stated, use it, but not too much. That can lead to other problems. Brakes, especially disk, are relatively easy maintenence items. But still some prefer to have it done at a shop. I like doing them myself though. Good luck

 

[RustyJC]

All I can say is, based on personal experience with my 1996 3500, if it's sticking, fix it quick. The right front caliper on my 1996 had been sticking for awhile, as evidenced by a tendency to pull to the right on braking. It finally froze up in the middle of Houston traffic when pulling our 5th wheel, and we nearly burned the truck down! Smoke was pouring from the right front before I could find a place to park the rig.



This one cost me a caliper, pads, disk and wheel bearings and seals. Even at that, I was lucky.



Rusty

 

[MLee]

canblue;

check the rubber guides that the pins go through on the caliper, if they are stiff replace them, clean the pins and use sly-glyde on them. this non-movement will wear the outside pads more than the in side one.

just my penny's worth.

Marv.

 

[canblue]

Thanks

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I am taking it to a friendly mechanic to let him repair the problem and upgrade the rear wheel cyclinders. Will have the brake fluid changed at the same time. Not touched since the truck was new

 

[Stamey]

Chec for caliper sticking closely. I did not notice as I should have, when I replaced my pads and I found out my calipers (both) were sticking when I finished off those high quality pads (Performance Friction) in less than 8K. I replaced both calipers, got new Napa Ceramix pads (Perf Frictions were out of stock and I needed them NOW), and the brakes have never been better on that truck.





Chris