Archived Stuck in park

[Boehler]

Previously, when I would try to shift into park sometimes it would show "park" but would actually be in reverse. I could move the lever to reverse and wait a moment and then move it back to park and it would actually then be in park.

Not sure if it is related, but two days ago I had trouble shifting out of park. I wiggled the shift lever and pulled really hard and it did shift into reverse. The next time it required a even harder pull. I would then shut down by leaving the shifter in neutral, shutting off the engine and setting the park brake.

This AM I read on the forums that the problem could be the shift interlock. I disconnected what I thought was the proper connecter and then without starting the engine was able to move the shift lever through all positions. I put it back into park and started the engine. Now it won't come out of park again. Not sure if I had the correct connection (it was a small white plastic connector with two wires) or perhaps my 70 year old brain only thought that I actually did move the lever through all positions.

Any advice will be appreciated!

Thanks,
Tom

 

[mwilson]

Read this thread, may help you to locate it...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/227927-Hard-to-get-out-of-park?p=2198039#post2198039

 

[Boehler]

Thanks!

OK I found the interlock. I disconnected the wires and then removed the interlock. I managed to get it out of park with very hard pressure on the shift lever. I'm afraid now to put it back into park. will it make a difference if I reconnect the wires?
To move the lever I also had to hold a "lever" to the side in order to try to shift.

I really don't want to have take it to the dealer!
Cavertom

 

[cerberusiam]

A more common problem is the detent ball housing on the valve body in the transmission, it wears and the ball jams the rooster comb so it is hard to get out of park. Verify this by removing the shift cable from the shift lever on transmission and manually moving the lever. If you can move the lever in and out of all gears by hand the cable or interlock is still jamming, if not the VB needs to be removed and repaired.

 

[p-Bar]

I think Georend has a repair kit for that.

 

[Boehler]

Thanks. As soon as the ground gets dry, I'll try that.

 

[Boehler]

Well, I crawled underneath and disconnected the cable at the transmission. The shift lever at the steering wheel moved freely through all positions. Underneath, I moved the shift lever manually, but after I moved it into park, I couldn't manually move it back. I reconnected the cable and with great force was able to shift out of park.

I can get by for a while by leaving it in neutral and setting the park brake. The valve body repair is not something I feel I could do myself so the decision is to get it repaired here in Gulf Shores AL, or wait until we get back home to NW Ohio in April. At least at home I will have a back-up vehicle.

Is this type of a job something that I could take to a general repair shop, or would I need a transmission specialist? With 180k miles should I consider a rebuild rather than just a repair?

 

[cerberusiam]

This is what you need.
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?product_id=94&pageactionprev=viewpricelist&category_id=&keyword=

Do not need a rebuild to JUST fix the detent, it is a simple fix on the VB that doesn't even need VB disassembly. all that needs done is release the clip that holds the shaft in the VB and replace the stock ball and spring. Really doesn't need a trans expert if the mechanic knows what they are doing. On the other hand, if the mechanic doesn't know how to remove the VB he can break things so a trans shop would be a safe bet.

 

[Boehler]

OK I ordered the repair kit from Georend. Their video looks like it is a piece of cake. The only problem I foresee is the removal of the valve body from the vehicle, if indeed it does need to be removed to do this fix. I would be working with ramps about 8 inches high under the front wheels.

Does anyone out there in TDR land have pictures or detailed instructions for R&R the valve body? I'm fairly handy, but I don't want to take something apart and not be able to put it back together.

 

[cerberusiam]

The VB needs to come out, the rooster comb and detent is on the top of the VB so it is not accessible when installed.

Check YouTube and see if there are videos there, that will help a lot more. So many of the pictures are gone now because photobucket limited the sharing, not sure there is anything left.

 

[p-Bar]

Here's a video it doesn't show removal though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ttBlZJjCB4

 

[Boehler]

Thanks guys. The video looks like a piece of cake. It's the removal and replacement of the valve body that sounds more challenging.

 

[sag2]

The only thing that might hang you up is getting the park rod out and back in. It works the best if the drive shaft can be moved in case the park gear lands on top of one of the teeth. If you don't have it in the right spot you can pull on the valve body all day and it will seem as though it is stuck in the tailshaft of the transmission. When it's correct it pulls right out. There might be a video or two on that also.

 

[Boehler]

The replacement detent bullet and spring from Georend, along with some advice from Dave solved the problem. Thanks all for your help.