Archived Stumped on EGT probe placement

[55gene]

Hello Wonderful Dodge CTD bretheren. I have been able to fix my 95 with all the wonderful info gleaned from this entertaining site. But now I find myself in a quandry on where to put my EGT probe. My concern with tapping it into the manifold is that filings might damage the turbo blades,and if I did place it there my inclination is to start with the 1/8 tap so I will have the 1/4 tap as a backup if something goes wong. If the 1/4 tap fails then I have the beer tap to work on but I would prefer that under different circumstances. I'm aware of greasing the bit and fishing out the filings with a magnet,but... . I'm ready to put my new 4" exhaust on and it would be easy at this point to put the probe in there if popular wisdom so dictates. My truck is an ex northeast snowplow unit that is worth restoring. It is! It is! :{ Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Mucho. Oo. 95 reg cab 4x4 AT,all the fac options,172k,Designated put-put mule,EGT-Boost-Trans temp-Dipricol,mud flaps are coming. 95 Ford cargo van(for work)248k ,84 Carrea Targa(for fun)195k

 

[RRoton]

You are sure to get a lot of contradicting advise.

Some say pre-turbo, some say post-turbo.

I put mine pre-turbo.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Where

I'd put it pre too. When drilling use grease to hold shavings then use a magnet and it will be fine.

 

[Joe G.]

Pre turbo is the place. I had mine post turbo for a while before moving it to pre turbo. One thing I noticed right away was how much quicker the guage reacts when it is mounted pre turbo. I don't really trust the gease bit method so I removed my turbo before drilling and tapping. Cleaned up afterward with a pencil magnet.

 

[CarlJensen]

I have a 95 and put the probe pre turbo. I wanted to know what was going into the turbo. Some have put two in, one pre and one post turbo. When you drill the hole and tap it use about 2 to 3 pounds of air pressure in the crankcase to blow all the filings out as you drill. Also use heavy grease on the bit and tap. Air can be applied by pinching off the breather and putting a tube on the dip stick pipe with NO MORE thasn 3 PSI. If you apply more you stand a chance of blowing a seal. ,The manifold is split so the probe must be located off center toward the firewall by about an inch and a half from center. My probe is located about 2 inches up from the turbo inlet.

 

[Snow man]

Put it pre turbo, drill the hole with the grease,and stick a pencil magnet down the hole and get all the shavings you can. Do the same after you tap it(use grease on the tap. Dont worry about the turbo,the instant it fires the shavings will be blown by the exhaust wheel before the turbo has spun up. Ive tapped over 30 pyros,done them all the same,takes all of 5 minutes to do,and none have had any problems. Whatever you do,Do not pressurize your crankcase,it will do nothing to help and may blow a seal out. A post turbo pyro is worthless exc as a shutdown device,you can only speculate and guess at the actual EGTS,you dont need a guage to do that. . sometimes there is a 500 degree difference,sometimes a 300, between pre and post turbo readings. Do you wanna gamble?

 

[Sticks]

If you are that concerned about shavings in the turbo, You do not have to remove it, just unbolt it from the exhaust manifold, and lean it out of the way. Soak the four bolts with PB blaster, or other good rust eater and unbolt it. Put a piece of paper between the manifold and the turbo and let her lean back into place and drill away. You will still need to fish out the large shavings with the magnet, or while leaving the turbo disconnected, and pulled back a little, start the truck and let her run for a few seconds.



Just make sure you pick your placement for the hole REAL GOOD. I was off just a little towards center, and drilled right down next to and partially into the divider between 123, and 456.

 

[55gene]

Thank you all for your input. Pre it Be!!!I've had my first CTD for almost a year and it has had some bugs to work out. Scince I have repaired my fuel delivery(up to the filter) my mileage has improved and yes I did have a crack in the fuel heater elec/connection neck (Thank you Joe). But to say something that all of you already know:This is one awesome rig!I'm amazed at the power and economy of my old snow plow stocker. And if you really want power you can get all the "GEEEE" Force you want!Cummins is King and Dodge is his Queen! And TDR is the Good Troops behind the scene! Hey-Thank You all again and God Bless! 55gene

 

[msimmons]

Gene:



I just did mine ('03 HO CTD) and had the same misgivings at first, but really, it is a piece of cake! I would install it pre-turbo for the most accurate exhaust temp readings. Also, due to the difficulty in getting a drill to the "down tube" on the exhaust manifold, I installed mine on top of the manifold right where the #3 cylinder tube enters the manifold.



You need to carefully position the drill and tap handle BEFORE drilling to make sure that you have clearance to operate the drill and tap. Once you have selected THE spot, center punch the desired location and drill away! Coat the drill bit with grease and drill slowly making sure that the drill is perpendicular to the exhaust manifold. After drilling, take a small pencil magnet and fish out the remaining shavings. You may have to do this up to a half a dozen times to get all the small particles. Repeat this until you no longer get any particles attached to the magnet. Now grease the tap and lube with cutting oil. You need to be careful on this step 'cause you don't want to tap too deep! Just cut a revolution or two and fit the fitting into the hole, repat this until you have the depth "just right". Then fish the remaining shavings out of the manifold with the magnet again until you no longer get any shavings. Apply some anti sieze compund to the threads of the fitting and install. Then install the thermocople, and you are done! If you have any other questions, PM me and I will be glad to help if I can.



Mike

 

[Joe Mc]

If you are installing a new 4" exhaust soon waith till then. 2 nuts remove the down tube and another 4 for the turbo. Stuff the manifold outlet with a rag, grease and drill away. A suggestion, before you even bother drilling take an inspection mirror, bright light and check for cracks on the exhaust manifold, which usually appear between 3 & 4. I found mine cracked at 126k by accident. The ATS 3-piece looks real cool (painted with Eastwood exhaust paint prior to installing), wasn't too bad after shopping for prices.



Good luck - hope you don't find any cracks.