stupid dynatrac/ems hub conversion Q

[Forrest Nearing]

that I think I already know the answer to...



I know everyone hates the CAD axle, but for my VERY limited offroad use, I don't mind it... I like the option of 2wd low.



and I realize that manual hubs give you the option of 2wd low



I guess my question is, if I were to just leave hubs locked, the truck would act exactly the same as it does now, correct? I mean, I wouldn't leave them locked as that would negate a big reason for doing the manual hub conversion. BUT, if I did leave them locked, it would be essentially the same, just stronger and servicable, right?



thanks

 

[BILLVO]

You got it figured exactly right.

 

[CumminsPower98]

If you left the hubs locked it wouldn't be quite the same as you would be spinning the carrier, drive shaft and t-case. With the CAD all you are spinning are the axles and spider gears, which are a lot less drag and wear. I personally really like being able to pop it into 4x4 quick and easy without getting out. You can also do 2wd low if you install a simple means of vacuum switching, which I'm sure you already know. The tiny bit of drag produced in a CAD system is almost nothing so this wouldn't be a reason for me to convert. The only reason I can see to convert is if you need a stronger front end and like you say to make bearing service easy. I put grease fittings in my front bearings so this is no longer a problem for me.

 

[Pavemen]

If you left the hubs locked it wouldn't be quite the same as you would be spinning the carrier, drive shaft and t-case. With the CAD all you are spinning are the axles and spider gears, which are a lot less drag and wear. I personally really like being able to pop it into 4x4 quick and easy without getting out. You can also do 2wd low if you install a simple means of vacuum switching, which I'm sure you already know. The tiny bit of drag produced in a CAD system is almost nothing so this wouldn't be a reason for me to convert. The only reason I can see to convert is if you need a stronger front end and like you say to make bearing service easy. I put grease fittings in my front bearings so this is no longer a problem for me.

as long as he sticks to the two piece passenger side setup, its exactly like stock. if he has a single shaft, then you are correct

 

[steved]

as long as he sticks to the two piece passenger side setup, its exactly like stock. if he has a single shaft, then you are correct

Yep...



I lock mine in when I know the roads are going to be bad... acts just like it should.



Hubs are best for those that use their trucks for oversized grocery getters and don't use 4wd that often. I think I've locked my hubs in less than a dozen times since I installed them over a year ago...



steved

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I would be retaining the CAD



how did you zerk your hubs? curious... I think I still want to use the lock-out style hubs for strength

 

[CumminsPower98]

I thought the conversion automatically did away with the CAD but it makes since you could do it either way. I wasn't aware of that, interesting. Info on my hub bearing mod is at the bottom of my mods page in the signature.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

interesting... if I'm understanding correctly, the magnetized drill bit is the key?

 

[BILLVO]

Forrest



In your sig it shows you have axles from an 02. In that case you already did away with the cad. Or is it just the rear axle you swapped? I am confused cause it says axles. My 02 doesn't have the cad. It is a full live axle.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

in true Dodge fashion, the 02's were a mid-year deal on the CAD... you know Dodge, they gotta try to change something in the middle of every year!

 

[zstroken]

Actually I would think the stock hub would be stronger than the lockout system, especially the standard lockouts. In truck pulling most of the super street guys and at least one mod guy is using the stock stub axles. One thing offroaders like about the hubs is they are quick and easy fuses to change.

 

[bmoeller]

I thought the conversion automatically did away with the CAD

The CAD stays in place. The kit only replaces the outer shafts and bearings/hubs.

When the time comes to replace my hub assemblies, I'll probably do the conversion. Mainly because they are serviceable. I thought my hubs were original to the truck, but after I replaced the ball joints (torn boot on the upper one) on the pass side last week, I'm not so sure.

Forrest, which kit are you going to get?

 

[CumminsPower98]

interesting... if I'm understanding correctly, the magnetized drill bit is the key?

It helps keep any shavings from falling in. I tried to keep the bit clean so there would be minimal metal on it when breaking through. I also probed around in there with a magnetized pick after drilling but it didn't pick up anything. I might have also had grease on the bit but can't remember for sure. All I know is it works great and gives me peace of mind knowing my bearings won't be seizing up on me somewhere thousands of miles from home (RV transporter).

 

[Forrest Nearing]

not sure what setup I'm going to go with... Leaning towards dynatrac, but don't have any real "reason" to go either way.



I think the locking hubs offer a stronger bearing arrangement due to their distance from eachother. I also like the fact that they're servicable. This truck has 285's on it, will rarely be offroad, and won't have a locker or anything like that up front, so I'm not too worried about breaking anything.