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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Stupid torque plate question part 2

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP... oh so close!!

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission trans check valve

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I ordered a #10 plate.



The problem is I slid the factory plate all the way forward and the paint I left showing the original location is long gone I'm afraid.



Can I install the #10 all the way forward? Half way?



Any suggestions?
 
Ditto. I scribed my stock plate position. I've been running a long time with the stock one full forward, I still had my mark, but till it was all said and done, the 10 plate was about halfway. I may play moving it up a little, but my egts stay pretty good for towing the way it is now.

Chris
 
Texas Diesel Sooooooooooooo, if I have the #10 too far forward will high EGT be the indicator?



Is that what I am tuning? EGT?



Yes, the plate controls fuel and fuel controls heat.

Forward more heat, backwards less heat.
 
Thanks!



Now I know what parameter to watch.



Next: HD exhaust valve springs and 4000 governor kit :D



This is all for wifeys truck, she wants more passing power.



Guess the HP bug bit her too.
 
Auto or standard? My stock plate is enough passing power for me, past that and i'd be just plain cocky about outrunning people. :) I'm going GSK too though.
 
5 speed.



She doesnt really need the #10 but I had a chance to get it used for $75.



I think the 2500 RPM defueling is what is the limiting factor.
 
It is. If you run up behind something , you many times don't have torque to accelorate in that gear and pass, and you can't drop out of overdrive and pass with a stock truck because you hit the governor before you ever hit passing speed.

My truck falls on it's face at 2200. I learned reaaaaal quick not to floor it to pass when I bought mine. (Automatic)

The 10 plate has top end fueling that compliments the GSK's I hear so it should work nicely. I was in hopes I could get some feedback about your GSK install and how it acts. .



Happy BOMB run. .
 
Well the clutch has 180,000 miles and probably needs to be replaced before the pilot bearing goes bad and kills the input shaft.



If it slips it will help me sell her on a new South Bend Oo.



After vacation next month of course...



What biggie238 said, just about the time you get in the other lane and hit 2450 RPM it starts to run like a powerjoke :-laf
 
Texas Diesel;

Before you bolt in the #10, tighten the Governor spring one or two clicks. [unless your doing 3k springs to] This is good for about 100 RPM more. The idle will come up a bit also. This is just a cheap mod. Also see if you have full movement of the throttle Rod, via the cable.

just my penny's worth

Marv.
 
Texas Diesel said:
If it slips it will help me sell her on a new South Bend Oo.



That's the spirit. :cool: :D



Chain reaction bombing ... clutch ... turbo ... injectors ... bigger plate ... bigger turbo ... traction bars ... it's a wonderful thing. :D ;)
 
yup, the clutch wont like it. ;) Even when I had my #11 part way foward, the clutch would slip. with a #10, forget about it. and my clutch had nowhere near 180K miles!!!!!

but when the clutch holds, and you get the egts to cooperate (read:turbo), she'll be one happy passer!!

--Jeff
 
Texas Diesel said:
I'm not sure how to tighten the Governor springs.



When you get the plate out look down in side, there will be two washer looking things opposite each other. I believe they have an impression on them, a large screw driver or two will turn them but be careful and turn slow and easy, and feel the notch. there is two, may have to rotate engine to get to the second one.

Marv.
 
I found the screwdriver to be a little cumbersome so what I did was took a cheap craftsman chisel and ground it down on the grinding wheel to where the middle is cut to fit over the governor stud and the ends are cut to fit inside the second washer... worked great and was much easier to maneuver than a screwdriver...

Luke
 
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