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Sub/amp wiring?

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TRAMPLINEMAN

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Question for you wiring gurus. Can you wire a single dvc 4 ohm sub to 4 ohms? I understand it can be wired in series to 8 ohms or parallel to 2 ohms, but how do you get 4 ohms? Or, are two subs needed to acheive 4 ohms? I think I’m confusing myself!!
 
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in fact a single DVC sub can only either be wired in parallel to achieve a 2 ohm load or in series to get an 8 ohm load. You would need to get an identical DVC sub and then wore each sub s coils in series to get an 8 ohm load at eac sub and then the two subs in parallel to get a final load impedance of 4 ohms.

See it’s not confusing at all!!! JK LOL

Here is a link that shows the various ways

https://www.kicker.com/wiring-diagrams
 
Nothing rally wrong with wiring the single DVC sub at 2 ohms as long as your amp can handle that which most modern amps can.
 
Ok, I’m not an expert by any means when it comes to this kind of stuff. Here’s what I have right now. A JL Audio 10w3v2-4 sub and a Pioneer GM-d8601 amp. The amp is mono channel 1600w max, 800w at 1 ohm, 500w at 2 ohm and 300w at 4 ohm. The sub is 300w continuous. So if I wired the sub to 2 ohms wouldn’t that be too much power from the amp for the sub to handle?
 
You didn't describe your main speakers and amps or where the sub's going. With modest mains and amps, you might not need 300W of bass. And the bigger the room, the more power you need to feel the bass.

'Continuous' is the key word. Thumpa-thumpa (or oom-pa-pa if you prefer waltzes) is not continuous. But the 32 foot orgam pipe at the beginning of Also Sprach Zarathustra is C0 (16.35 Hz, 5 octaves below middle C) is continuous.

One main difference is, as in many things in this world, heat rejection. Oom-pa-pa gives the speaker time to dissipate the heat from the voice coil. Constant bass notes (20-120 Hz or so) don't allow that time.

Another difference is that the voice coil itself may not be able to handle the voltage or current and could 'flame out'. I'm sure some of you may have seen stage monitors do this at certain high-dB rock concerts. Impedance is not resistance, but they're close enough for these calculations. First, P is watts, I is current, V is volts; equations are P=I2R (I-squared) and P=IV. To reach 300W at 1 Ohm requires around 17V and 17A. At 8 Ohms, you need around 49V and 6A. Short peaks reach 1600W. At one ohm, you need 40A and 40V; at 8 ohms, you need 14A and 113V.

So it's a trade-off between voltage and current. Too much voltage and the voice-coil insulation might be insufficient, resulting in flame-out. Too much current and it could get too hot, melting stuff in the voice coil and flaming out. I suspect the latter is more likely to happen. If the impedance is too low, the amplifier might not be able to supply enough current and you will have distortion; if too high, the amp might not be able to supply enough voltage and, again, you will have distortion. Amplifiers most often like to see 4-16 ohms; but yours may be happy with lower impedances, judging from its specs.

Low frequencies require a *lot* more power then highs. (At WPI, we'd run 4-6 900-1200W amps for the low end, a few 300W for the midrange, and 45W for the tweeters.)

I would suggest you wire for 8 ohm and not turn the amp up to 11. If this provides a nice balance with your main amps, great. If not, re-wire to 2 ohms and turn the sub input down to achieve reasonable balance; turning it down will limit the continuous power fed to the subs.

If you're watching movies, use care in extended gunfights. The 'Expendables' battle in the airport is probably close to continuous. When Dad and I watched it, the amp got very warm and we felt the shotgun blasts in our chests, but we were probably still well under 300W continuous in the sub-100 Hz range. (He had those A-L 602As for decades and *never* knew they could be *that* loud.)
 
Ok, I’m not an expert by any means when it comes to this kind of stuff. Here’s what I have right now. A JL Audio 10w3v2-4 sub and a Pioneer GM-d8601 amp. The amp is mono channel 1600w max, 800w at 1 ohm, 500w at 2 ohm and 300w at 4 ohm. The sub is 300w continuous. So if I wired the sub to 2 ohms wouldn’t that be too much power from the amp for the sub to handle?
You need to know that the sub pulls power from the amp, the amp does NOT push power to the sub. As long as your gains are set correctly and you listen to your music at reasonable volumes and you don’t crank the volume past clipping your sub will be gine. The extra power will be available aon tap as headroom for more dynamic passages.
 
You need to know that the sub pulls power from the amp, the amp does NOT push power to the sub. As long as your gains are set correctly and you listen to your music at reasonable volumes and you don’t crank the volume past clipping your sub will be gine. The extra power will be available aon tap as headroom for more dynamic passages.

I am understanding more and more as I read. 20 years ago I hooked up quite a few car systems, but those were all single voice coil subs, easy. Things were pretty basic then. Things seem so much different now in this day and age with amps and subs. Maybe I’ve just been away from it for too long.
 
fest3er, while I DO appreciate all the audio info, knowledge wise we’re not on the same page. I don’t think I’m even in your book! I need the “Wiring for Dummies” book.

But, can I build anything under the sun when it comes to power lines!!
 
In short, if the amp mentions 8 ohm speakers, wire the sub for 8 ohm and go for lower current and higher voltage. If not, wire the sub for 2 ohms and go for the higher current and lower voltage, and be sure to monitor the power levels since as 2 ohms you *could* fry the subs if you aren't careful.

Also, remember that just because the amp is rated at 500W doesn't mean it'll be putting 500W into the subs continuously; it only means that it *can*. Unless you listen to music and movies at 80-90 decibels, I doubt you'll be over 50W most of the time, with thumpas and oom-pas using 150W momentarily.
 
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