Supporting the turbo

[GWBourne]

do i need to remove the turbo completly when i remove my exhaust manifold? i will have it out for a 24 hour period, so i am just wondering.



also, if anyone knows the torque for the manifold off hand it would be nice. thank you

Grant

 

[Alan Reagan]

Here's the full installation instructions and torque values.



INSTALLATION



1. Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold and gaskets. Install the bolts and spacers and tighten the bolts

in the sequence shown in to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs. ) torque.

2. Retorque the four center bolts.

3. Install heat shield and torque nuts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs. ).

4. Install cab heater tube.

5. Install exhaust manifold bolt retention straps.

6. Install the cab heater return hose to the manifold bolt stud. Tighten the nut to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs. ) torque.

7. Install the turbocharger and a new gasket. Tighten the turbocharger mounting nuts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs. ) torque.

8. Raise vehicle on hoist.

9. Install the oil drain tube and a new gasket to the turbocharger. Tighten the drain tube bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs. )

torque.

DR/DH ENGINE - 5. 9L DIESEL - SERVICE INFORMATION 9 - 2631

10. Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger and tighten the bolts to 11 N·m (100 in. lbs. ) torque.

11. Connect the wastegate command valve connector.

12. Lower the vehicle.

13. Pre-lube the turbocharger. Pour 50 to 60 cc (2 to 3 oz. ) clean engine oil in the oil supply line fitting on the

turbo. Rotate the turbocharger impeller by hand to distrubute the oil thoroughly.

14. Install and tighten the oil supply line fitting nut to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs. ) torque.

15. Position the charge air cooler inlet pipe to the turbocharger. With the clamp in position, tighten the clamp nut to

11 N·m (95 in. lbs. ) torque.

16. Position the air inlet hose to the turbocharger. Tighten the clamp to 4 N·m (35 in. lbs. ) torque.

17. Connect the battery negative cables.

18. Start the engine to check for leaks.

 

[jwilliams3]

You could leave the turbo in the truck if you find a way to support it.

Or you could just detach the exhaust pipe from the turbine housing and remove the turbo attached to the manifold.

Then remove the turbo from the manifold while it is out side of the truck.

 

[GWBourne]

ehh, i guess i was thinking with a one track mind... . i think i will do it that way, but leache the turbo on the manifold, that way i only have to buy the head side gaskets. just put a rag into the manifold (i have lint free rags by the 1000) and then make sure the turbo is cleaned out prior to re-instal

Grant

 

[hasselbach]

The exhaust band clamp is 100 inch pounds, not 100 ft lbs as noted in #10 in Alan Regans post.



If changing gaskets, make sure to use the 5 layer steel gasket and not the 1 layer gasket. Also, I used some copper coat on both sides to help seal them, and torqued and retorqued the manifold, started truck, drove it for 30 minutes, let it cool down overnight, and retorqued again.



The water manifold bracket is a pain to remove so what I found best is to remove the small bolt that is below the waterline mid block, disconnect the water hose near the cowl, and rotate the steel pipe downward off the stud.



When you have the stud out, I cut the top threads so when the bracket is reinstalled, the threads were flush with the nut. (about a 1/4 inch was removed), makes is a lot easier to remove the water bracket in the future to retorque the manifold.



I aso noted that the threads were dry from Cummins, so I installed them dry instead of oil or anti seize the threads. I think it will help in keeping the bolts from backing out as some have reported.

 

[Alan Reagan]

The exhaust band clamp is 100 inch pounds, not 100 ft lbs as noted in #10 in Alan Regans post.

Good catch. That was a cut out of the new service manual. I didn't catch it. I edited my post to correct the error. I figured with the various torque specs, I would just post the entire install.



Alan

 

[GWBourne]

yes, the torque specs will help big time. i think i will just remove the manifold though... wire the turbo up to the firewall or do something else to support it that wont get in the way. this makes the job a lot easier as i am doing it in a parking lot at the barracks. dont have the ability to be pouring oil into and out of oil lines and turbos.



i will be tearing it apart tonight and will let everyone know how it goes, then drilling and re-instal tomorow.

Grant

 

[F-15I Ra'am]

yes, the torque specs will help big time. i think i will just remove the manifold though... wire the turbo up to the firewall or do something else to support it that wont get in the way. this makes the job a lot easier as i am doing it in a parking lot at the barracks. dont have the ability to be pouring oil into and out of oil lines and turbos.



i will be tearing it apart tonight and will let everyone know how it goes, then drilling and re-instal tomorow.

Why are you removing it? If it is just to drill and tap the stock manifold for a pyro, there is no need to remove it.

 

[GWBourne]

you are correct, no NEED, but since i am a paranoid person i feel like doing things the right way or not doing them at all. i dont ahve the money to buy a new turbo. no do i want a new turbo. YES, guidelines have been set, said and sold to most people for doing it while the truck is running, but i would rather thake the 100% safe way of not getting crap into the turbo. it will also result in a MUCH better hole being drilled and less chance of doing a semi cross threaded tap. drill press is a GREAT thing.

Grant

 

[hasselbach]

You stand to have more problems removing the manifold than not removing it. Fire up the truck, partially block off the exhaust manifold, and drill a pilot hole, and then go up from there. As I recall, its a 1/8 pipe tap which takes a drill slightly larger than 5/16 (next size up). Drill your hole square, and don't force the drill or tap. Use grease on the tap, (engine off), and swab out the inside after tapping with a q-tip or magnent on a stick.



The little shavings, if any will blow out when you start the truck. I've done many this way and never ever had a problem.

 

[GWBourne]

i see ZERO problems with removing the manifold. yes, i have to buy new gaskets, no big deal. yes it is more work, but i am a working man, again no big deal. to me it is worth it. for me it is a 7/16" hole and a 1/2 inch tap. (if i recal correctly, pretty sure as its the same size as my boost side that i did yesterday) so there will be a LOT more shavings than others. its not worth the risk to me. i can wire the turbo up while it is still supported by the manifold, then remove what i need. if i wanted i could do it all on luch since i waasnt able to get the manifold off today due to time constraints then just hang it and hand tighten it to hold the weight till i gtet off work.

Grant

 

[hasselbach]

1/2 tap? that's huge! not to mention weakening the manifold. You are putting a pyro in right?



To each his own, but once you remove the manifold, you stand more chances of leaks and loosening bolts down the road than if you did it the easy way.



Good luck (ps, the dodge 5 layer gaskets are about $10 each too)

 

[GWBourne]

like i said, i could be off on the size, but i know it is larger than 1/8 and not just by a little bit. if a bolt falls out ill replace it. a torque wrench is a great thing and works great for keeping things where they go. yes, the bolts strength has changed a bit and streached a bit from origonal instal and all the heat cycles, this i can deal with. they will still hold torque, and if checked a couple of heat cycles after re-instal then they will be fine. im not a new mech, nor am i dumb. i am over cautious and some times paranoid.



gaskets being 10 dollars each isnt a big deal. how much is a turbo? if placed correctly on the monifold there should be no problems with a 1/2 inch hole if it is that size.

 

[hasselbach]

like i said, i could be off on the size, but i know it is larger than 1/8 and not just by a little bit. if a bolt falls out ill replace it. a torque wrench is a great thing and works great for keeping things where they go. yes, the bolts strength has changed a bit and streached a bit from origonal instal and all the heat cycles, this i can deal with. they will still hold torque, and if checked a couple of heat cycles after re-instal then they will be fine. im not a new mech, nor am i dumb. i am over cautious and some times paranoid.



gaskets being 10 dollars each isnt a big deal. how much is a turbo? if placed correctly on the monifold there should be no problems with a 1/2 inch hole if it is that size.

a 1/2 inch hole and a 5/16 hole is a big difference.



a 1/2 inch tap and a 1/8 npt tap is even a bigger difference. .

yes, you are paranoid, :-laf good luck with the install

 

[GWBourne]

oh, i agree... i know what i have is a lot larger than 5/16, just cant remember the exact size... i know the shop has the right tap as well, so its not a big deal, once i get there it will be simple. just have to get the time to do it. tonight wasnt it, and i dont think tomorrow will be ether.

Grant

 

[nickleinonen]

5/16" is needed for a 1/8" npt

7/16" is needed for a 1/4" npt



a 1/2" npt needs something close to a 3/4" hole as 1/2" pipe is around ±7/8" OD

 

[GWBourne]

every tap i have used the drill bit required is one step or so smaller than the tap... . i dont see how it could be larger... . i will get the size tomorrow night and post it up for sure.

Grant

 

[hasselbach]

every tap i have used the drill bit required is one step or so smaller than the tap... . i dont see how it could be larger... . i will get the size tomorrow night and post it up for sure.

Grant

pipe size is ID, whereas drills are OD measured.



And, the drill for 1/8 pipe is actually slightly larger than 5/16, I believe its 11/32. Otherwise you risk the damage of breaking the tap.

 

[GWBourne]

yes, i know this, i am measuring the outter diameter of the threads, improper way of doing things, but the taps i have access to are not marked, so its how i have to do things. he has taps in sizes so close together that i have to measure them vice eye balling them. like i said, i will get the exact size tonight if i can.

Grant

 

[Mike B.]

Nothing like turning a 15 minute job into an overnight project.