Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Swap spin-on fuel filter for cartridge style?

[Cooker]

I changed the fuel filter on my fathers 1998 the other day and I was very impressed how easy it was to remove and access the fuel filter. The Spin-On Fuel Filter on my truck has always been a huge PIA. I'm thinking of changing out to the newer style filter head, canister, and cartridge filter. Has anybody done this? Do any of the lines need to be modified (longer, shorter, ect... . ) Thanks.

 

[RT66DOC]

DITTO what Cooker said.

 

[RT66DOC]

TTT



Anybody?

 

[bighammer]

C'mon, just be thankful you have a 12 valve.

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by bighammer

C'mon, just be thankful you have a 12 valve.

Always looking at the bright side of things



RT66DOC,

I did a little research on this today. The filter housing assembly (filter head, canister, and WIF sensor) is Fleetguard PN 3898282-s and at Cummins Bridegway it sell for $114.



I don't know if it is a direct bolt in replacement, but I think I am going to put this on the back burner for a while. $114 is more than I am will to spend at this time for a little convience.

 

[BudW]

It takes a few parts to convert a spin on to the "can" type, but it can be done.

My '94 was "something else" (I'd rather not say) to change.

My '97 has the "can" type and is easier (takes about 1/2 the time), but I WANT the "lid" type the newer 24v's have. Take off the plastic lid, clean out the housing, drop in new cartridge and screw the lid back on. no more getting diesel all over me or the truck.



I also noticed my '97 is easier and quicker to prime than my '94 was, as well.

 

[RT66DOC]

Thanks for the research, Cooker. I can change alot of filters the old way for $114. Actually it never has been much of a PITA since day one.



RE: "Thankful you have a 12 valve" - you betcha.

 

[Cooker]

You guys must have better luck than me. I have one hell of a time getting the damn thing off. I absolutely hate doing it. I guess my fat hand doesn't help either though



EDIT: Sorry, I meant to reply not edit. See below.

 

[JohnE]

Add an Espar and the element (canister) style filter isn't easy to change, either. Espar mouns on the frame rail in the hole where I used to pull the can. Now, I have to drain the can, tip & twist to get it out and cannot refill. The Espar also reguires me to crawl under the truck to access the prime button. That is a PITA. Sometimes I really long for a filter next to the tank with an electric lift pump, but I really love my 12 valve... ...

 

[bighammer]

Originally posted by Cooker

You guys must have better luck than me. I have one hell of a time getting the damn thing off. I absolutely hate doing it. I guess my fat hand doesn't help either though



EDIT: Sorry, I meant to reply not edit. See below.

What I mean was, I meant to quote, not edit your post. (hit the wrong button)



I have the 4 wheel ABS which adds a lot of extra brake lines right where you need to reach in there. Somehow I still prefer it over the new one probably just because I'm used to it.

 

[Cooker]

Just an update (I know it has been a while )



Today I tried installing the cartridge style fuel canister off a 1999 on to my 1996. It is a direct bolt in replacement with one exception... it's too big. I think Dodge started using the cartridge style in 1997 for two reasons, one they knew the spin on was a PIA and two, with the hydroboost brakes they had more room to squeeze a larger canister in there.



As soon as I had the two side by side I realized it was not going to work. The spin on filter head is much smaller. The cartridge style is larger and when mounted barely touhes the brake booster I probably could have left it on but changing the filter would have almost been an even bigger PIA because of the lack of room to move things around with the extra tight clearance with the brake booster.



I guess I will keep dealing with the PIA spin-on filter.

 

[DBrickel]

I think Genos Garage has a fuel filter that relocates it up by the intake horn. Pretty sure I saw it there

 

[bmoeller]

That probably would be the Prime-loc. I hear they aren't perfect either.

 

[RT66DOC]

The DC engineer who designed the layout of the fuel lines/lift pump/primer button-yuck/4-wheel ABS plumbing and everything else they crammed in that space ought to be condemned to either (1) come to everybody's house to change the d@#$ thing for them or (2) have to wear Fruit of the Loom shorts four sizes too small for the rest of his (sterile) life.



What a contradiction - the Cummins motor is so great and so many things about what they put it in are pure design stupidity. In other professions (medicine comes to mind) one can be held liable for negligence for failure to exercise "foreseeability" which results in a bad outcome. Hey, maybe that's why some guys are DC engineers instead of doctors. Probably a good thing.

 

[Cooker]

I do not like the idea of the Prime-Loc. On the other hand I have been giving some thought to making my own FF relocation kit. You could easily move the OEM filter head to another location but you would have to replace two hard injection lines and address the fuel drain manifold.



Or you could just buy a FASS and throw the whole damn thind away

 

[Bob4x4]

The DC engineer who designed the layout of the fuel lines/lift pump/primer button-yuck/4-wheel ABS plumbing and everything else they crammed in that space ought to be condemned to either (1) come to everybody's house to change the d@#$ thing for them or (2) have to wear Fruit of the Loom shorts four sizes too small for the rest of his (sterile) life.



What a contradiction - the Cummins motor is so great and so many things about what they put it in are pure design stupidity. In other professions (medicine comes to mind) one can be held liable for negligence for failure to exercise "foreseeability" which results in a bad outcome. Hey, maybe that's why some guys are DC engineers instead of doctors. Probably a good thing.

Cummins engineered the fuel system in conjunction with Bosch,Dodge just had to shoe horn the package in.

 

[RT66DOC]

Cummins engineered the fuel system in conjunction with Bosch,Dodge just had to shoe horn the package in.

Thanks for that info Bob. Now I know who to gripe about.



Maybe they should have included a shoe horn in one of the option packages.

 

[Joe G.]

Cooker,



Changing the filter is pretty easy if you lean the master cylinder out of the way. It only takes me a few minutes on my '95.

 

[RT66DOC]

Cooker,



Changing the filter is pretty easy if you lean the master cylinder out of the way. It only takes me a few minutes on my '95.

Even with 4 whl ABS?

 

[Joe G.]

I haven't done one on a 4 whl ABS. The ABS on a friend's truck looks like it's not in the way. It would depend on how far you can lean the master cylinder. Use a 15mm socket to remove the nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster, pull it loose, and lean it over. The trick to making it easy is to NOT use a filter wrench. I use a large screwdriver as a sort of chizel on the top rim of the filter. A few bangs on it with a hammer breaks the filter loose so it's easy to unscrew by hand. The only thing that is even close to being hard to do is the WIF sensor connector. My hands are big enough that I have a hard time with a lot of stuff, but the fuel filter is not one of those things. It's worth a try.