There was a time a while ago that I was going to try to make the switch, and in cab adjustable switch for the three settings. My vain attempt at a basement enterprise.
I have opted to just post the instructions for said on off switch (I have not written the one for the adj. version).
PARTS:
2 miniature relays from Radio Shack (rated for 12 volts DC)
1 1. 5" x 3" blank circuit board from Radio Shack
1 1. 5x 3 project box from Radio Shack
1ea. Male and Female OEM connectors (for the data port connection, not the MAP) from Cummins NOTE – these are the PNs for a 2002 model. I don’t know if the data port connection for the various model years varies. When in doubt, take your Edge EZ, or the data port cap with you when you pick up the plugs.
Ø Cummins/Weather Pak part numbers
Ø Male 3 way 3823340
Ø Female 3 way 3823339
4 OEM wires for the above connectors from Cummins (2 each male and female, I am not sure which gauge – ask when you order)
Ø 14ga. Male 3823998
Ø 14ga. Female 3823999
Ø 18ga. Male 3822922 (?double check this one?)
Ø 18ga. Female 3822923
18 ga wire, 4 different colors preferred.
Shielded Male and Female spade crimp connectors
1 switch (preferably with a light to know when it is on)
TOOLS:
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Soldering iron
Flux core solder for electrical connections
Drill
A selection of drill bits
Continuity tester
1. Assemble the OEM connectors with the snap fit wires from Cummins. Take care to note that the connector has three ports in it, but you only use two. Verify which ports the wires go into by looking at the Edge connector. MAKE SURE you put them in the correct ones, they do not come out easily.
2. Assemble the relay module by first cutting down the circuit board slightly so that it will fit inside the project box.
3. The relays should have 3 pins on one end, and 2 on the other. Insert the pins through the circuit board so that the pins are sticking out through the side of the circuit board that have the copper rings.
4. Solder the pins to the circuit board, taking care not to bridge any of the rings (delicate work).
5. Now fit the circuit board in the box and chose a location to drill a hole in each of the long ends where the wires will come through, and not interfere with the lid of the box. Drill the appropriate holes for the wires (make the hole a little larger, since you will be wrapping the wires with tape to help protect from rubbing)
6. The packaging that the relays came in should have a map indicating which pins are the coil, and which ones are the switch. Take a section of wire short enough to bridge the same pins for one end of the coil on each relay, then do the same for the other (use different colors for each one if you have a choice Red and black as this will be the feed for the relays). See attached drawing for example.
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7. Now take two pieces of wire (one of each of the colors that you used for the relays so far) about 4 feet long and feed them through one of the holes on the box. These will be your power feed and the ground. Connect the appropriate wire to one end of the bridged connections.
8. Now take about 6" of 4 pieces of wire (2 of each of the remaining colors) and solder them to the remaining pins (one color for each relay - mark them on the ends if you don't). This will be for the switch portion of the relays.
9. Now tape the power/ground feed and one wire from each relay, starting at the edge of the circuit board out about 3" and feed it through one of the holes in the box, then do the same with the remaining 2 wires through the hole on the other end. If everything has gone well, the circuit board should now sit in the box and you should be able to close it up.
10. Assemble the whole package by connecting the short wires from the relays to each of the connectors. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE WIRES CONNECTED TO THE CORRECT PORTS ON THE CONNECTOR - IE The center port on each connector should be connected to the same relay.
11. Time to test it. Hooking up the continuity tester to the same ports on each connector ( i. e. the center of each) test the relays by using a car battery with one wire to the positive, and the other to negative. Once you connect to the battery, you should have continuity through the relay. If not, verify that you have connected to the connectors well, and are in the correct ones. If you still do not have continuity, listen to the relays when you connect and disconnect the power for a faint clicking noise. If you do not have clicking, take the box apart and verify that the wires are connected correctly. The list of trouble shooting can get long, so I will stop here. Contact me if you have problems.
12. Presuming everything works, connect the appropriate ends of the connectors to the data port and the EZ. Use either a wire tie, or some tape to attach the wires to the EZ cable every 6 inches or so. If possible, wire tie the box to something in the engine compartment to help keep it from banging around.
13. Now find a location to attach the ground wire either to one of the OEM body grounds or the battery.
14. In the cab, select a place to mount your switch. You need to find a power source for the switch in the cab that only has power when the key is on.
15. Once you have found a source of power, run a wire from there to the switch, and use a female spade connector to connect to the switch.
16. Now take another piece of wire and feed it into the cab from the engine compartment and run it up to the switch and connect it. Take care that the wires are not in a place that they will get rubbed or pinched. Use some wire loom if you have any.
17. Connect the wire from the switch to the engine compartment to the power feed to the relay box, and you are done.
NEVER turn the EZ on or off at anything other than idle. This BOMB is a make and use at your own risk. Edge was not consulted with in the planning of this switch unit. The author of these instructions will not accept and liability or responsibility for any damages to anything (vehicle(s) or performance box for example) that it is attached to.