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Synergy Drag Link and Tie Rod.

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Alan Reagan

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I finally had enough of the POS Ram drag link and ordered the Synergy one. My link was welded half way around on each nut. I suddenly developed a steering problem where I was having to steer to the right going down the road. The alignment shop I’ve always used was hesitant to cut the welds if they did an alignment due to it being done as a recall.

Turns out I have a bad tie rod on the left side. I had already ordered the drag link so I turned around and ordered the tie rod as well. I installed the drag link today. The .5 hour recommended install time obviously doesn’t include the two hours it takes to remove the pitman arm tie rod. I didn’t want to beat it out and the tie rod puller wasn’t getting the job done. Finally, I sprayed the tie rod taper with Deep Creep, tightened up the puller and went inside to warm up. When I went back to the shop, the tie rod had popped out.

The Synergy drag link is stout. The tie rods have zerks. Everything fit like it was supposed to. Had to only make a half turn adjustment on adjuster bolt to straighten the wheel so the instructions on setup before installation were very good. The Synergy tie rod will be here later this week and I expect it to be easier to install (if the tie rods will pop out of the knuckle). I will do a shop alignment check and take it to an alignment shop if necessary. I just have to decide if I want something less than 1/8 toe in. This setup should last the life of my stock truck. At least it’s serviceable.
 
The welds are a joke for sure!

Has synergy updated their design recently? I’ve seen a couple of their drag links for sale used and each one was was because the owner was going to the updated OEM link, but that was also back when the OEM link was 1/3 the price it is now.

Just curious if that was a fluke, or an issue with the synergy link. I saw enough of them for sale used I went with the OEM upgrade.
 
if you use the correct puller and give it one quick squirt from a electric impact it pops the joints loose in seconds. fooling around with box end wrenches youll be there all night
 
The welds are a joke for sure!

Has synergy updated their design recently? I’ve seen a couple of their drag links for sale used and each one was was because the owner was going to the updated OEM link, but that was also back when the OEM link was 1/3 the price it is now.

Just curious if that was a fluke, or an issue with the synergy link. I saw enough of them for sale used I went with the OEM upgrade.

comrade - may i ask what is the part number of the " oem upgrade " ? thanks in advance. cheers!
 
The welds are a joke for sure!

Has synergy updated their design recently? I’ve seen a couple of their drag links for sale used and each one was was because the owner was going to the updated OEM link, but that was also back when the OEM link was 1/3 the price it is now.

Just curious if that was a fluke, or an issue with the synergy link. I saw enough of them for sale used I went with the OEM upgrade.

My understanding is that for the 2013-2018 link, it was a redesign including updated components. There was a ‘flop down’ issue that was attributed to not carefully aligning the link during installation. CJP has a good video on the correct orientation of the link that shows how it has to be installed correctly. When I test drove the truck yesterday, the steering was much smoother and responsive. There was some play that I was attributing to a failing tie rod end that is not there now.

I will install the tie rod bar this Friday after it warms up some.

I looked at the OEM and it was cheaper for sure. But the tie rod ends and the bar on the Synergy are just made beefier and I went with them instead.
 
My understanding is that for the 2013-2018 link, it was a redesign including updated components. There was a ‘flop down’ issue that was attributed to not carefully aligning the link during installation. CJP has a good video on the correct orientation of the link that shows how it has to be installed correctly. When I test drove the truck yesterday, the steering was much smoother and responsive. There was some play that I was attributing to a failing tie rod end that is not there now.

Pretty sure that's for the 3rd gen HD steering as the 13+ (3500), 14+ (2500) steering doesn't have the drag link connect to the tie rod.
 
My drag link connects to the knuckle. The failing tie rod I’m referring to is my drivers side tie rod end.
The drag link has two tie rod ends and then the tie rod bar has two. Sorry for the confusion.
 
My drag link connects to the knuckle. The failing tie rod I’m referring to is my drivers side tie rod end.
The drag link has two tie rod ends and then the tie rod bar has two. Sorry for the confusion.

Correct, that's the 13+ (14 for 2500), 4wd steering setup.

The CJC video I saw for the synergy drag link issue with "flop down" doesn't apply to your truck.
 
That’s correct. But it can be installed in the flop down or rotated down position. The orientation and updated design and components for the 13-18 stop that from happening. The instructions have to followed carefully. If the orientation is done correctly with the newer link it can’t rotate forward. Mine doesn’t rotate at all. Seems to be a good heavy duty design incorporating very good serviceable components.
 
That’s correct. But it can be installed in the flop down or rotated down position. The orientation and updated design and components for the 13-18 stop that from happening. The instructions have to followed carefully. If the orientation is done correctly with the newer link it can’t rotate forward. Mine doesn’t rotate at all. Seems to be a good heavy duty design incorporating very good serviceable components.

So the upgrade you're referring to is the redesign in 2013, not a synergy specific upgrade.

The issue I am referring to is there are multiple counts of people like @firemansdiesel who returned/sold their Synergy for the 19+ OEM drag link. I was asking if synergy had done any upgrades to fix whatever was causing lightly used drag links to be sold for an OEM product.
 
I don’t know what changes have been made to the 19+ or why people are selling them. A friend of mine owns a shop that does upgrades and modifications and is the person that recommended Synergy. The 13+ had good reviews. I didn’t buy from synergy but through a distributor with excellent customer service and knowledgeable techs that are available on chat day and night.
 
just ordered 68338342AB - with the remote possibility of being reimbursed by ram. they are " special order " according to mopar america, and will take extra time to get to me. f y i . the weld fix drives me up a tree. cheers comrades!
 
Keep an eye on that synergy drag link. Seen quite a few failures of the end links on those from people that installed them. I ended up getting Ram to install the new factory one in my truck a couple months ago(no charge).


.
 
The tie rod would not tighten down with the pinch bolt torqued to specs. You could actually swing the drag link grabbing from the center of the bar. Everything set like the instructions stated. Called Synergy and sent video and pics of the tie rod end into the drag link bar on knuckle side. They stated everything was installed correctly with the oreintation of the tie rod into the bar, tie rod looked good, and impossible defect with the bar. After trying to mess with it for while. I took it off and ordered the OEM part and reinstalled the old drag link until the new one came in. There are some with same issue as I did.
 
ok. ya personally i havent heard one person make a complaint about the synergy draglink for the 14+ trucks but thats not to say i havent over looked some threads

the pinch bolts have to be minimum of 90ftlb. alot of people probly just use two box end wrenches and i have serious doubts you would get it tight enough. even if you could get it to 90 you would have no way to know you were at 90.
long 1/2" ratchet could easily get to 90 but again, you would have no way to know if your at 90 or 78 or 112 etc .
box end or ratchet on the bolt head so it doesnt turn and torq wrench on the nut seems like the best way.
the rod may still turn until you get to the 60 or 70ftlb range.
if you didnt use a torq wrench or didnt prevent the bolt from turning while torqing, it would really call into question your claim about the rod being faulty.
if the rod was faulty as you say, im suprised synergy didnt immediatly take it back as thats what any reputable company would do
 
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