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Synthetic oil on a rebuild?

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Bill Kondolay and Crew

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I assume that it's best to wait till a rebuilt engine is broken in, much like a new one, before going to synthetic. It's not a Cummins. Any input?
 
I have a friend that ran synthetic from day one after a rebuild and not a problem. But I have also heard that you should wait until the rings seat first...



Rick
 
illflem,



You may want to check with the manufacturer of the piston rings being used. Great progress made in ring/cylinder wall breakin technology. Generally, if installing new rings on less then new cylinders, a less "slick" oil will improve piston ring seating, but some manufacturers will okay the synthetic.
 
I've seen it bone both ways.

Bill in the old days we would use the cheapest 10-30 oil to seat the rings. Then after 500 miles we would use a good grade of 10w30 oil. Only when the engine started using (not leaking)oil we would move up to 10w40 and the engine would stop using oil.

I have a friend that put slick 50 in a newly rebuilt honda civic and it burned oil from that point on.

I talked with a man that had a new Mercedes S430 and he said the car comes with synthetic, modil 1 I think.

On the other hand I have changed from Castrol 20w50 on my 86 Toyota to synthetic at 40k miles and it started consuming 1. 5 quarts every 3k miles.

Sooo I don't know what you (they) should use. I've seen it both ways.

What type of engine is it?

Tim:confused:
 
It's GM 3. 5 Vortec. Problem is this is a rig at work that constantly travels the entire state of Montana, big state. It runs between 1-3k miles a week, I'm tried of changing the oil all the time, want to go for extended changes. It's getting rebuilt this week.
 
I think I would just put on a bypass filter like a Gulf Coast O-1 jr. or a Franz (sp?). You would just change the bypass element and your regular full-flow filter every 3k. The make-up oil you add when you change filters should keep the oil's additive package up to the point where you could extend drain intervals quite a bit. Naturally, oil analysis would define what your drain interval should be.



As long as you're rebuilding the engine, the added cost of the bypass filter stuff ($150 at most) really is negligible.



Mike
 
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