T.C. drainback--fed up!!!

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Back in June I switched over to Amsoil everywhere. In the transmission I loosened the v. b. to get as much as I could out of the t. c. Since then I've had some drainback symptoms which were liveable in the warm weather, but now that it is cold(20 or under)it has gotten to be too much. I was told to leave it warm up in nuetral for a couple minutes. I do that,(2-3 minutes at 1000r. p. m. ). Then I pull out of my driveway,go about 50 yards,and it stops and slips for a couple of seconds before it kicks back in. Tonite I started it and warmed it up for 2+ minutes in nuetral(should be more than addiquate in my oppinion). It slipped a little going out the long driveway(couple hundred yards)where we were visiting,yhen drove home,about 2+ miles,started backing in my driveway,and nothing but slip city for about 3-5 seconds. Does anyone else know what it could be,this is ridiculous,I can't see having to go through this whenever I try to go somewhere. It wouldn't be bad if it worked after warming up in nuetral for a few minutes,but to have it start slipping after I get out on the road just doesn't seem right to me.

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1997 2500 4x4,Auto,Cal. e. g. r. (for now),3. 54's,Amsoil throughout,DiPricol egt/trans temp/boost gauges,ready for more power

 

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It sounds to me that by lossing your valve body something is worped or a gasket is broken.

 

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I cannot speak of the symptoms of a valve body problem, but my T. C. drainback is cured in about 5 seconds when the transmission is placed into gear or neutral. It does not take long to pump the ATF through the system.

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD

 

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If the valve body was not torqued properly after the drain it may be warped.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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The drain back from my T/C is also taken care of in just about 5 seconds after putting my truck in gear.

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1994 4X4 2500 Auto.
1998 Harley FXDS
1998 Harley Sportster 1200

 

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Thanks for the input guys. Just got a tip to check the fluid in "drive" instead of "nuetral". Found out it was low. That was the symptoms I was having but every time I checked it in nuetral it read in the O. K. zone. That is why I thought it must be a drainback problem. Filled it to the full line tonight so tomorrow a. m. I will know for sure if that was the problem.

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1997 2500 4x4,Auto,Cal. e. g. r. (for now),3. 54's,Amsoil throughout,DiPricol egt/trans temp/boost gauges,ready for more power

 

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jkh,

Please also keep this in mind, checking your oil in drive will give you a low reading.

The proceedure i use is, to check the oil in neutral with the vehicle hot. Most people tend to check the oil level when the vehicle is still cold. ie) first thing in the morning.

I usually road test the vehicle 4-5 minutes and then check the fluid in neutral. Also keep in mind the dip stick always seems to give 2 readings. One side of the dip stick reads high and the other side reads low.

Always use the low reading.
Never turn the dipstick sideways when removing from the filler tube to check oil, always have it up and down the same way it comes out of the filler tube.

Do not rule out Joe G's comments, i know its a pain to check but it definately worth the consideration since the drainback became more pronounced after the oil change.

You know when your transmission is over full when it starts comming out of the front of the transmission.

What i mean is that the vent on a Dodge transmission is located on the front pump assembly and if the transmission has too much oil it will start leaking out of the front pump assembly.

When doing the type of service that you did, as in remove pan and loosen vb bolts, the whole process should have removed up to 9-10 quarts of oil with a factory pan.

Bill
Diesel Transmission Technology.