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T case issues???

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1993 Dodge 2500 truck won't start

DTC PO513, PO581, P1193, P2228, P2580

I am hoping that you kind folks can help a neophyte out.

I have a 2010 Dodge 3500 DRW Cummins truck. After 170k, she finally left me on the side of the road. Got her home and was told but people that i thought had more smarts than me that it was the rear end. It was not but i went ahead and replaced bearings, seals, rotors, pads, t-case oil and new e-brake kits. The differential looked great upon inspection. The oil was not bad and had no shavings or grime. So i can say without a doubt that the rear end is not the issue.

So here’s what happened initially. Driving about 65mph it felt like I ran over something and I heard a “pop”. It wasn’t loud but definitely felt like something gave way. Pulled over and checked truck out with no sign of anything broke from the exterior. Started driving again made it about 5 miles and started hearing a low “screech and grind sound”. Pulled off the highway and as I slowed to a stop the truck locked up like the brakes were all of a sudden applied. After letting truck sit for a bit i was able to get “whatever” it was to break free and was able to get truck out of the road. Towed the truck home and here’s where we are. Rebuilt the outers on the rear end and test drove the truck. After about 5 minutes of just putting up and down the road the same initial sound is heard again.

I’m pretty sure its the t-case, it seems that is where the sound is coming from. I have called several places pricing a t-case and have options ranging from $950 (eBay) to $3000(dealer). The one i have decided on if this is the issue is one from Powertrain Products $1200 with warranty. I was told I have to replace the front driveshaft as well.

So here are my questions...
1. Does this sound typical of a T-case breakdown? (I understand it is hard to diagnose by what i am saying but i am looking for input.)
2. Is it typical to have to replace the front driveshaft when you replace the T-Case?
3. With no experience is it a better option to just rebuild my t-case? (I’m not a mechanic by trade but I’m no slouch and i can learn) ( i gots me some of dat common sense)
4. What else should i check before spending the money
5. It looks pretty straight forward to remove and replace but what is the average time to do a swap?

The transfer case is an NV273D behind a 68rfe transmission.
 
I’d drop the fluid out of it and look for some shavings for starters. Transfer case express was a big player back in the day, not sure how the long term quality has been with them however.
 
I’d drop the fluid out of it and look for some shavings for starters. Transfer case express was a big player back in the day, not sure how the long term quality has been with them however.
Thanks. Just out of curiosity. Is the transfer case different between the 1500s and the 3500s???
 
Check your Rear Ebrake again, to me it sounds like they locked up.
Did you install a new Ebrake cable together with the overhaul?
That's important i learned as it sets the shoes to the right distance to the drums..

The Ebrake is prone to lock up, ripping off everything inside the drum.
Thats probably what you heard.

A Tcase going south makes horrible mechanical noise, like a stone crusher, you'll immediately stop an not drive again for a foot.
 
I had a similar problem like this. My rear parking brake shoes had unglued from the metal broke apart and
jammed inside the rear rotor/drum.
 
Just as when you visit the Doc they check your blood... check the case fluid (blood) as the first point. Might want to disconnect front and rear shafts at the case, then see if you hear or see anything as you hold one output flange (rear) and try to turn other (front). I'd think there might be a little slack, but shouldn't hear any skipping or clunking. Guessing case hi/low/4WD is electronic controlled so might have to have key in on position and case in 4WD. Just some thoughts I had while reading this thread.
 
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