Tapper cover gasket

[btoscano]

The big rectangular gasket on the drivers side of the block... . I hate it!!!



There appears to be a noise deading pad over the cover held on by nuts to a few studs. Then the cover/gasket itself held on by the 10 mm bolts.



It appears that I will have to remove the LIFT PUMP to get this thing off????



Geeez, its a nightmare.



So in addition to the cam follower gasket, I'll also need a lift pump gasket, and have to deal with even more fuel lines???



Anything else I should move out of the way now??



Thanks,

Brian

 

[bgilbert]

Anything else I should move out of the way now??

Since hardly anyone has probly done this, we don't know what to say, just move whatever is in the way

 

[Greenleaf]

Hehehehehe Yep. That's a plastic/foam cover. You didn't KNOW that!! LOL



You don't need it. Just throw the insulated cover out. Paint the tappet cover some pretty shade of blue or red.



BTW you'll love this. Mine leaks worse now with the new gasket than it did with the old gasket.



You don't need the insulated cover when you run the NEW PISTON LIFT PUMP!! Yeah Baby!! It gits in the way.



The gasket will go on with the word "front" to the ahh..... front.

 

[btoscano]

GL,



I long suspected it was a cheezy cover of some sort because it certainly didn't look it sealed anything. But the actual cover is nearly frozen in place.



And those stoopid rubber buffers and metal washers. Arrgh. . I might as well get new ones of those too while I'm doling out the cash.



I will probably end up terribly proficient at these engine just like Mercedes-Benz 124/201 chassis work. I had problems on that and ended up stripping the suspension from the frame floor to the tires.



-brian

 

[btoscano]

Well, I got the fuel pump off, sure is easier the second time around. I got enough of the tapper cover gasket off to break the seal and pop the cover. Now I have to figure out how to get that huge cover out of there so I can clean it up!! Won't be easy. Grrr. Any tips welcome.



Should I replace the rubber buffers that go between the cover and the washers?



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

I don't have any freebie tips on this one. These will COST you.



I pulled the injection pump/lift pump/crankcase vent hose/fuel return line/filter. I have lots of pics but dont know where they went. Looked fer 'em yesterday. If I find them I'll load them BACK onto the computer and post up a few. There (probably) is one in my readers rigs gallery.



-S

 

[btoscano]

GL,



I took off the filter filter and lift pump as well and CCV tube as well. That CCV clip is in a bad location! The wiring harness connectors all look in the way. The cover is "off" and I see the pushrods, but I'd like to get it out of the engine bay to clean off the old gasket.



I think I will replace the rubber buffers behind the washers, maybe they are useless though? I still need to order the lift pump gasket (just changed in August ) and two other bolts that were missing.



Brian

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Use new rubber washers to be safe. I put 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the cover to help hold the gasket and seal it to the cover. Let it dry for a day at least, Use lacquer thinner to clean the block and the gasket, install dry. Now that I have no 12 vavle, I am stuck with a couple new gaskets and a cover in the garage. Echo blocks (2003-up) don't use it. 24 valve guys do benefit from retrofitting the 12 valve cover for better breathing than that front cover mounted catch can.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Just as an aside... . is there any particular area/spot that these things commonly fail???

Cause????



pb.....

 

[Greenleaf]

My Silver 92 leaked at the bottom middle when I bought it. When I changed it out during the injection pump swap, it began leaking right at the back lower corner.



The school buses are hit and miss. Some leak oil all over the place allowing a nice undercoating of the oil pan and transmission. Some don't leak at all.

 

[btoscano]

Mine is leaking from the middle to the firewall, on the bottom. When it started coating the front of the fuel tank I decided it was time to replace it.



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

Naa. Let 'er go.



Tugboat Phil has a built in oiling..... er... ... ahhh... ... . undercoating system on his 93. That thing will be in great shape when I get it in a couple years. Then I'll rebuild the vaccum pump and pressure wash the underside. It'll keep for years to come



Great plan Phil!

 

[btoscano]

There ain't no going back... I've got the cover off, just have to get it out of the engine bay somehow... any pointers?



Once that is all back together I can see how the pump runs!



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

You ain't pulled it out yet. What ya wait'n fer?



If your looking for instructions like... " roll the bottom up/tilt the front to 30° and pivot the right corner down to the starter motor then... ... . " I don't have that. I just pulled it off and rolled it up and out.



You must have one of them fangled "marine" engines or something.

 

[btoscano]

I got back to the truck yesterday. Got the tappet cover off and cleaned it up. Next I have to clean off the block.



I got the injection pump back from the diesel shop. They said the pump was "in the middle" for fueling and turned it up to the max within factory specs. They said the idle/high RPM screws/angles were way off and adjusted those within spec. They also locked the pump with the keyway at the bottom (TDC).



Question - Should I bar the engine (I have the barring tool) or turn the pump so the key way/gear line up? If you say turn the pump, what's the best way to do that? I don't have a very good vice - should I take it to someone who does?



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

I'd turn the pump and then bar the engine to fine tune the alignment. Unless you are pulling the front cover. I just pulled an injection pump but am also tabbing the dowel pin.



How tight does the key fit the pump shaft key way?

 

[btoscano]

What's the best way to turn the pump?



What are the chances if I bar the engine that the pump gear will get knocked out of place? I still have the puller connected to it.



The key is currently VERY tight into the pump shaft.



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

I turn the pump with the nut tight and a 22mm soccet. Then I use a 3/8" drive impact to quickly spin the nut loose. Any impact would do it. 1" drive might be a tad large.



Then, I sometimes have to fine tune the gear key by moving the engine very slowly and carefully. I normally only move it about one or two degrees. Thing is that sometimes, at the 1:00 position, the pump is on the cam high spot and will move when you pull the pump. This is why I have to slightly adjust the gear position if the pump mounting slots are not enough.



I/d be concerned about rotating the engine too far with the gear in there. Have someone hold the gear and allow it to rotate while you bar the engine over... ... would that work with out jumping a tooth or two???

 

[btoscano]

I will give it a shot.



This afternoon I put the tappet cover and the foam pad back on the engine.



As I was securing the return line I noticed just how much play there is in the line on the engine block side. I looked back to the "T" fitting and wonder if that is leaking diesel fuel down the block and not as much engine oil as I thought. If they mix, it will probably remain black, right...



Is there a repair kit for that "T" fitting? If I'm leaking some fuel there, I am sure to gain some fuel economy by repairing it.



-brian

 

[btoscano]

Is the torque spec on the tappet cover bolts 18 ft-lbs / 24 N-m like other bolts this size?



Brian