Archived Tappet cover oil leak 1996 2wd, need puller for pump gear.

[royalfh]

I have just spent 8 hours cleaning engine and trying to stop tappet cover leak, it appears that the gasket has cracked and has just started gushing oil. I see that I am going to have to bite the bullet and pull the p7100 pump and virtually all the rest of the drivers side engine accessories. I have not pulled the pump before and I am a bit intimidated by the project. I have searched the forums but need some advice;

1/ Where to buy puller for pump gear. ( I hope I do not have to remove timing gear cover, KDP done 2 years ago).

2/ Is there a key on the pump gear? some posts I read indicate that the gear is on a taper, I do not want to loose the key in the gear case.

3/ Do I need barring tool to hold engine whilst re-torquing pump gear bolt?

4/ If I pin engine at TDC and pin pump timing, do I have to invest in timing kit or could I get timing re-set just by marking components.

5/ any other advice?



Thanks,

Nigel. 1996 2500 2wd. Auto trans. 400K ml. Riverside CA.

 

[NIsaacs]

Make 100% sure you have found the oil leak. They (oil leaks) are not always where they seem to be. The head gasket seals the oil supply to the rockers on that side of the block, 6 passages. Just a thought.....

Nick

 

[HHhuntitall]

Yes, definitely make sure that's where it's leaking. It's a common leak, unfortunately, and it's labor intensive, and the replacement gasket is a PITA to make sure you get it sealed correctly, as it wants to move around when torqueing it down..... They usually leak at the bottom towards the back... ...



As for removing the pump, there are several type of pullers available. I made my own out of 3/8" plate so I don't have to remove the radiator to accomodate most long-threaded pullers..... I'd highly suggest a barring tool. Sometimes, the engine can be a PITA to get to stay at TDC without it... Then you have a hard time keeping the timing correct. Then I'd suggest removing the front cover. That adds a little more work, but the shaft is taper fitted on the pump without a key, and to keep alignment and timing, I'd suggest removing the front cover, especially if this is your first time. Then you can mark everything with a paint marker, and can properly get the oil out of the pump gear shaft hole and off the pump shaft. That oil has to be removed, or else it can cause slippage when it starts, and then timing is lost. Also, you can lock the pump at TDC with the timing tab lock, so if the engine is locked with the barring tool, and the pump with the timing tab, you should be able to keep timing without a doubt. As for torquing the gear, it should be fine if the engine is barred, as well. I'd suggest tapping on both sides of the gear after initial torquing with a brass hammer, and then check torque and your alignment marks... . Don't forget to pull the timing tab out of the camshaft if you use it!! I don't use it, as half the time it's sheared off, or the timing has been advanced, and use the pump timing and the barring tool to keep it timed where it currently is, seldom using a dial indicator and the timing tool kit.



My biggest piece of advice would be cleanliness. If any dirt gets into the injection system, you'll not be happy... . Also, try to keep any grime out of the tappet area. That's the worst place for it to be, where the lifters go up and down!! I use RTV on the gasket to help keep it located, too, but some suggest otherwise..... I've done two 24v engines this year, and I try to send them elsewhere. I hate that job!!



Oh, and I meant to mention, remember there is an all to common oil leak in between the power steering pump and vacuum pump, and that often gets blown up on the side of the block... ... I've occasionally seen the oil supply lines for the vacuum pump leak, too. That often gets blown back on the block, too. Just suggestions. Good luck

 

[royalfh]

Thanks for the help, I am sure it is the tappet cover gasket as I have located at least two breaks in it. I did purchase the oil feed line to the vacuum pump thinking that was the culprit but it was not. I also have purchased the seal kit for the vacuum pump, not installed it yet, pump is dry at seal area. I bought it as I know that one day it will go. I may replace seals when I remove pump to get access to the tappet cover.

The head gasket line appears dry too but I will have to do that one day as I am getting a slight coolant weep at the area below the thermostat, common problem area I believe that can be rectified by an updated head gasket.

I suppose that after 17 years I should expect a few issues to arise! all I have had to do to this truck is one alternator, 1 water pump and a govenor pressure thingy in the transmission. I can hardly believe that the transmission is still as good as new after all those miles.



Nigel, Riverside CA.