Tell me about the Hot pole on our camper plug!

[JJW_ND]

I am look for information about the factory trailer plug, specifically the hot pole that will provide 12V power to the trailer.

How big a wire is it and/or what amps is it rated for?

I have info on a 96 but would like to see if the newer 2000 - 2001 trucks are the same.

jjw

 

[Dave Fritz]

For 2000-2001: The B+ feed to the trailer is #12 wire, which would be rated for 20A continuous at 12 volts.

The insulation is rated for high temperatures, so you can push it to a bit over 30A for intermittent duty. The wiring harness will get very warm at 30A, so don't do this on a continuous basis.

The circuit is fused at 40A.

Dave

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1994 2500HD 4X4 modified for off-road camping
2001 2500 ETH/DEE QC SB 4X4
Fritz's DodgeRam.org

 

[ARARAR]

Why? What are you thinkinbg of doing or do you just want to know?

 

[JJW_ND]

We have five 1/6th hp 110 volt AC electric motors running cirulation pumps on a tank located on a 5th wheel trailer. We currently run these pumps motors with a Honda 3500 watt mounted on the trailer. We can run all motors with a 1000 watt generator, just not start them all at the same time with a 1000 watt. In a different application we run one of these same motors off an invertor (DC to AC). The company that set that up told us the draw per motor once running was 6 amps (9DC).

We are thinking about adding an invertor to be an either or (Honda or Invertor). Honda equals noise and have to add gasoline ever 6 hours. Invertor is quiet clean power via Cummins.

For simplicy and standarization, it would be nice to just plug via the factory trailer plug and connect to 12V power to feed the invertor.

As you can see 5 (motors) times 6 amps each is on the high side. We run these motors none stop for up to 16 hours. Most days 6 - 10 hours staight.

Might have to run a heavier wire back.

I was hoping that wire was more like 10 gauge.

Thanks for the info Dave!

jjw

 

[Bill Stockard]

JJW,

I have had several Lance Campers and they have a 12 volt option on the fridge which draws approximately 18 AMPS. The 12 volt hot line wired in the factory harness will not operate the fridge very long without running down the camper battery.

I ran an 8 gauge wire from the driver side battery, through a 40 AMP circuit breaker and a heavy duty isolator relay operated by the ignition switch, back to the camper receptacle. The relay keeps from draining your cranking batteries if you forget to unplug or switch off the 12 volt drain in your trailer.

The 12 gauge factory supplied wire all the way to the rear of the truck has too much resistance to handle very large current loads. There is no isolator relay in the factory trailer tow wiring harness.

Bill

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Y2K 3500QC, 6 Speed, 4. 10, SLT+, Camper & Tow Pkg. , Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, Mopar Flaps, EGT & Boost Gauges, ECM Controlled PacBrake w/BD Switch on Gearshift, Painless Wiring Kit, Mag-Hytec Diff. Cover, Rancho 9000, Air Lift 5000 Air Bags, '01 Lance 1140 11'6" Slide-In Camper, Torq-Lift Camper Tiedowns

 

[JJW_ND]

Thats what I think we will do. At least on one truck/trailer to start with and see how it works.

I am not worried about draining the batteries as we always have the truck engine running.

To run 30 amps continuous, should the supply wires be 10 gauge or bigger?

We have ST (Govt trucks)trucks without any electric accessories. Whould it be easy to tap into the engine bay wireing/fuse box to tap power and add fuse protection?

jjw
ND

 

[illflem]

I would go with 8 ga, tap straight into the battery post with a ring connecter and use an inline fuse within a foot of the battery. It's also good to use another inline fuse close by the motors on the trailers. Sometimes after running that length of wire a fuse won't blow when it's supposed to, best to have one to protect the wire and another to protect the motors. If you need an on/off switch put it on the trailer. If you feel the need to get fancy install a relay close by the battery connection whose coil runs off an ignition wire.



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-13-2001). ]

 

[Ron Bissett]

Originally posted by JJW-ND:
I am look for information about the factory trailer plug, specifically the hot pole that will provide 12V power to the trailer.

How big a wire is it and/or what amps is it rated for?

I have info on a 96 but would like to see if the newer 2000 - 2001 trucks are the same.

jjw

what ever you go with look in to auto reset brakers 20--30--40--50 amp can be found at most trailer supply insted of fuze of same amp . The brakers are small two post and have a screw mount hole on tab or flange they are about 1/2x1/2x1 1/2 cost? about 1. 50 up. saves replacing fuze each time. LoL



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99DCTD3500 5spd pac,/American Star 26ft 5th wheel one slide. (95),mod

 

[Ladders]

As one who has wired for the ranch owners - if you use a ckt breaker, install a fuze at least somewhere in the line (make sure fuze is 5-10 amps bigger) for safety. If you "accidently" overload and not know it, the breaker keeps resetting till fire can happen (in the wiring or ??). The fuze prevents this and is "CHEAP" insurance.

Just another opinion and for what its worth -

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

AHHHH, the fix is back!!!!