Just getting acquainted with the Cummins for the first time (2K miles). I have not been able to hitch up and really run the 5er, winter set in. I would like to hear from Ram owners with the A/T to find out how the Cummins sounds in 3rd at between 2500-3000 RPM hooked up to a 10-12K 5er. I test drove the Ram (unloaded) in 3rd at the above RPM and it sounded like I shouldn't be driving at that RPM. I'm curious to hear if there is a difference when under load. Thanks!
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The Cummins sound?
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Actually I see no reason why you would want to run that high in 3rd. I had the 99 auto and 3. 55s. It ran well in 3rd up to 55-60 mphs. This was at around 2200-2400 RPM. If your on the flats doing over 60mph put it in O/D. Get some gauges ie
yro,Boost and transmission temp. Each truck is different so youll need to get a baseline for your truck on the readings empty and while towing. This can tell you when to get out of O/D,if the engine is working properly,etc. I did make a 200 mile trip on the freeway pulling the TT in 3rd at 65mph. Stayed out of O/D. Averaged 11mpgs. Made another long trip only using O/D and it didnt make a whole lot of difference in mileage. Give yourself some time and youll get tuned into what the engine likes by sound.
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2001 HO 6spd,Quad cab,LWB,4x4,Flame Red,all options except for leather,Westin Brushguard/Push bar,Painless wiring,Radio Shack CB,my own design CB mount,Smittybuilt nerf bars,NW Custom rocker covers,Custom built stainless rocker light bars,DeeZee bedrails,Isspro pyro and boost gauges(more to come)
yro,Boost and transmission temp. Each truck is different so youll need to get a baseline for your truck on the readings empty and while towing. This can tell you when to get out of O/D,if the engine is working properly,etc. I did make a 200 mile trip on the freeway pulling the TT in 3rd at 65mph. Stayed out of O/D. Averaged 11mpgs. Made another long trip only using O/D and it didnt make a whole lot of difference in mileage. Give yourself some time and youll get tuned into what the engine likes by sound. ------------------
2001 HO 6spd,Quad cab,LWB,4x4,Flame Red,all options except for leather,Westin Brushguard/Push bar,Painless wiring,Radio Shack CB,my own design CB mount,Smittybuilt nerf bars,NW Custom rocker covers,Custom built stainless rocker light bars,DeeZee bedrails,Isspro pyro and boost gauges(more to come)
Thanks for the reply Mike.
I'm the one posting the request for recommendations on changing to 4:10s due to
my setup being over the CGVWR. I'm looking for as much info as possible before I deceide to have the dealer make the change.
With the 4:10s, I know the Cummins will be running between 2800-3000 rpm at 60-65 mph out of O/D. I'm trying to keep to the "book" on weight, driveline and OEM (i. e. not towing in O/D). With my Ram and 5er (and not packing the 5er to the max 12K) I may be over the combined weight by 1,000# to 1,500#.
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
I'm the one posting the request for recommendations on changing to 4:10s due to
my setup being over the CGVWR. I'm looking for as much info as possible before I deceide to have the dealer make the change.
With the 4:10s, I know the Cummins will be running between 2800-3000 rpm at 60-65 mph out of O/D. I'm trying to keep to the "book" on weight, driveline and OEM (i. e. not towing in O/D). With my Ram and 5er (and not packing the 5er to the max 12K) I may be over the combined weight by 1,000# to 1,500#.
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
Runaway is right. Its kind of an either or thing. Its noticeable with the 6spd as well. Have the 3. 55s and even at 65mph in 6th the engine is only running about 1700rpm. With the 4. 10s you will pick up about 300-400 rpm. My truck is a daily driver with occasional TT pulling so I settled for the higher ratio. It comes down to your choice. It will be spendy but not as much as another truck.
Mike and Runaway,
Does the Auto. take 63-68 MPH in O/D as long as the RPM is in the "sweet zone" and is the destructive heat build-up mainly when shifting up and down at the wrong speed or RPM. I'm not used to towing in O/D. I understand O/D is OK on the flats and I would expect to downshift on grades, so are there any other hints you can pass on?
Oh, as for the price of the gear change... I got the dealer to foot the bill because they failed to work me through the Dodge Truck "Job Rating" Chart.
#ad
(Other folks reading this, the next time you're looking for a Dodge work truck, keep the "Job Rating Chart" in mind. It will save you a great deal of grief!)
Thanks.
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
[This message has been edited by Tagalong (edited 01-12-2001). ]
Does the Auto. take 63-68 MPH in O/D as long as the RPM is in the "sweet zone" and is the destructive heat build-up mainly when shifting up and down at the wrong speed or RPM. I'm not used to towing in O/D. I understand O/D is OK on the flats and I would expect to downshift on grades, so are there any other hints you can pass on?
Oh, as for the price of the gear change... I got the dealer to foot the bill because they failed to work me through the Dodge Truck "Job Rating" Chart.
#ad(Other folks reading this, the next time you're looking for a Dodge work truck, keep the "Job Rating Chart" in mind. It will save you a great deal of grief!)
Thanks.
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
[This message has been edited by Tagalong (edited 01-12-2001). ]
I found that keeping the RPM above 1900 in O/D was the best. 2100RPM is the ideal. The auto works best at a higher RPM because of transmission oil pump pressure. The transmission will also run hotter when the TCs unlocked do to fluid shear. As I mentioned before getting gauges will be your best tool for locating the best RPM , power,etc. Do a search in the archives as there is a lot of info on towing with the auto transmission. Going to 4. 10s was a good choice. At 65mphs you should be in the sweet spot.
Every truck seems to be different. My brand new Dodge with the automatic, when I first got it it ran best between 1500 and 2000 rpm, on level ground it even ran good in OD to about 1400 rpm. I know Mass pretty well, if you're running out on hwy 91 you should be in OD all the time, unless you're worried about all the speed traps over there. I'f you're running on something like a hilly area you wouldn't want to keep it in OD. My engine was fairly noisy when we first got it, now it has 11,000 miles on it and the engine has smoothed out and quieted down quite a bit. Running it in cold weather ( I assume yoyu're adding some type of fuel additive )I've noticed Power Service makes my truck smoke more and run rougher than any other fuel additive I've come across. We use Pyroil now and the engine runs very smoothly. There's also a lot of bad diesel fuel out there, especially in areas where there's no large competing truck stops. When we were up on Mass we made sure to get our gas in Springfield or Brattleboro, VT (if that happens to be your neck of the woods). Now that our truck is broken in it runs a lot better at higher rpms, like at 23-2400, but our Cummins does vibrate more in the 2000+ rpms, so we try to keep it below that.
tag , what dealer are you getting this done at in mass ? you can email it to me if you like . at least you have a 2wd and its not twice the work. you need to install an EGT and a trans temp guage if you're going to be towing that heavy , you will make short work of your trans if you overheat it . this your first diesel ? if so you need to relearn driving it , its not like a gasser , ie: don't mash it to the floor , when you do that the convertor will unlock and build heat.
i'm in mass also , north of boston .
i'm in mass also , north of boston .
Mopar-Muscle,
Hmmm, now you've given me even more to think about!! The Dealership is Donahue in Salsbury. I was planning to install a Auto. Temp gauge but not the EGT gauge. I see many Cummins owners are adding all these gauges. I am new to the Cummins. (Wanted to get one for years. ) I'm not a "peddle to the metal" driver. In fact, my problem is that I might be too conservative driving it. I'm in the Haverhill area. I thought that when we purchased this $$$ vehicle, I wouldn't have to add/change a thing... I'm beginning to get frustrated with all this "stuff" that I'm learning about the "mighty Cummins"
#ad
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
Hmmm, now you've given me even more to think about!! The Dealership is Donahue in Salsbury. I was planning to install a Auto. Temp gauge but not the EGT gauge. I see many Cummins owners are adding all these gauges. I am new to the Cummins. (Wanted to get one for years. ) I'm not a "peddle to the metal" driver. In fact, my problem is that I might be too conservative driving it. I'm in the Haverhill area. I thought that when we purchased this $$$ vehicle, I wouldn't have to add/change a thing... I'm beginning to get frustrated with all this "stuff" that I'm learning about the "mighty Cummins"
#ad------------------
White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
Tag, As an owner of a '99 with auto and 3. 54 LS diff, you truly do not need to add a thing to your new purchase. Unless you want too protect your investment and get the most from it. I believe that is what the others are trying to relate to you.
As for me, I'v been around diesels almost all my life for I first got introducted to them on the farm as a small boy. What I learned then is what I apply now. If you know how your vehicle is running/operating you have a much better way of knowing how to work with it. You can't always hear things and feel what is going on, especially under load. Thus, the reason for gauges. By all means I strongly suggest you purchase a transmission temp, Boost and EGT gauages. These instruments along with the ones already installed will help you maintain the "perfect" operating range to maximize the life of your new truck.
Along with that I am a believer in keeping your engine warm. I have never lived in Mass, but realize your temperatures can and often due get fairly cold. If you have a garage, put your truck away, everyday and plug in your heater so the engine is warm in the morning. Once started for the 1st time of the day, give it 3-5 minutes to allow circulation of the oil and items within the engine and transmission to "settle-in" for what you will be asking them to do. Frequent oil changes in the begining miles will also keep you in good stead 100K miles from now.
I could go on, but don't wish to bore you with things you already know from reading the owners manual. I like my truck and although I don't baby it, I do know how it is running by watching the guages and listening. Hope this helps being this is your first diesel and a large out-put of $$$.
Happy motoring! Dave
As for me, I'v been around diesels almost all my life for I first got introducted to them on the farm as a small boy. What I learned then is what I apply now. If you know how your vehicle is running/operating you have a much better way of knowing how to work with it. You can't always hear things and feel what is going on, especially under load. Thus, the reason for gauges. By all means I strongly suggest you purchase a transmission temp, Boost and EGT gauages. These instruments along with the ones already installed will help you maintain the "perfect" operating range to maximize the life of your new truck.
Along with that I am a believer in keeping your engine warm. I have never lived in Mass, but realize your temperatures can and often due get fairly cold. If you have a garage, put your truck away, everyday and plug in your heater so the engine is warm in the morning. Once started for the 1st time of the day, give it 3-5 minutes to allow circulation of the oil and items within the engine and transmission to "settle-in" for what you will be asking them to do. Frequent oil changes in the begining miles will also keep you in good stead 100K miles from now.
I could go on, but don't wish to bore you with things you already know from reading the owners manual. I like my truck and although I don't baby it, I do know how it is running by watching the guages and listening. Hope this helps being this is your first diesel and a large out-put of $$$.
Happy motoring! Dave
Tag,
The most I normally pull is my offroad Jeep. Jeep/trailer=about 6000 lbs. What seems to work ok for me is to leave it in OD all the time. When I come across a hill and can no longer maintain same speed & rpm without "kicking down", I hit the OD button and drop to 3rd. You can definitely feel when you reach the kickdown point.
Normally, I am taching a tad over 2k at 65 and when I exit OD, I'm up around 3k. When back on a flat, I'm back in OD. This is my first diesel also and I'm learning as you are.
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01 2500 Sport, QC, LWB, Auto, 4. 10, 4x4, Camper Pkg, Geno's muffler eliminator pipe, rest is stock for now
The most I normally pull is my offroad Jeep. Jeep/trailer=about 6000 lbs. What seems to work ok for me is to leave it in OD all the time. When I come across a hill and can no longer maintain same speed & rpm without "kicking down", I hit the OD button and drop to 3rd. You can definitely feel when you reach the kickdown point.
Normally, I am taching a tad over 2k at 65 and when I exit OD, I'm up around 3k. When back on a flat, I'm back in OD. This is my first diesel also and I'm learning as you are.
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01 2500 Sport, QC, LWB, Auto, 4. 10, 4x4, Camper Pkg, Geno's muffler eliminator pipe, rest is stock for now
Bid D, I'll have to look into the gauges.
What's a good brand, cost and where do you put them?
#ad
All in all it does make sense.
Milkman, I'm not a fast driver at all. In fact I normally drive (when towing) at 60-65.
I just want to get this Ram to where it should be in light of miscalculating the its weight rating.
Ray J we'll be matching each other in RPM but not is trailer weight. I'll be almost doubling your set-up and that's gotta be different running down the road at 65.
You guys are helping me out a great deal. Thanks.
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
What's a good brand, cost and where do you put them?
#adAll in all it does make sense.
Milkman, I'm not a fast driver at all. In fact I normally drive (when towing) at 60-65.
I just want to get this Ram to where it should be in light of miscalculating the its weight rating.
Ray J we'll be matching each other in RPM but not is trailer weight. I'll be almost doubling your set-up and that's gotta be different running down the road at 65.
You guys are helping me out a great deal. Thanks.
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White 2001, 3500, Auto,3:54,QC,2WD,LB,34' DBL slide Cardinal 5er
tag , haven't had any experience with that dealer other than buying some gaskets . i am in your area , i don't have a 5th wheel hitch and a shortbed , so letting you try a bit more power and a modified trans with your load isn't possible . i have my gauges on the roof pillar , some times it creates a slight blind spot , but after awhile its not that bad . i'm more than happy to help you out.
Hi Tagalong
I have a 97 extended cab long bed with 3. 50 rear end. I tow a 10,440# 5th wheel and my truck weights in at 6800# for a gcw of 17,340#. At 70 mph tach reads 2000rpm. I run in overdrive and crusie most of the time. When speed drops to 60 mph it drops out of over drive. If it is a long hill I will lock out od until I get to the top. If I don't it will pick up speed and shift back to od at just a little over 60 mph and then shift back to od before reaching the top and that is to much shifting. I think you are ok with your rear end.
Sam B
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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #
I have a 97 extended cab long bed with 3. 50 rear end. I tow a 10,440# 5th wheel and my truck weights in at 6800# for a gcw of 17,340#. At 70 mph tach reads 2000rpm. I run in overdrive and crusie most of the time. When speed drops to 60 mph it drops out of over drive. If it is a long hill I will lock out od until I get to the top. If I don't it will pick up speed and shift back to od at just a little over 60 mph and then shift back to od before reaching the top and that is to much shifting. I think you are ok with your rear end.
Sam B
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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #
Tag, For gauges look at Geno's in the TDR for a start. There are lots of other brands equally as good, but I've had good success with the ones I've purchased. I personally like the dual combo gauge of EGT/Boost in one unit from Geno's along with the transmission gauge. They are manufactured by Westach and the background lighting is much like the stock instrument panel layout. If you decide to order the "A pillar" mount be careful for there are two different types available now. One has the small speaker molded into it and the other doesn't. Sorry, don't have the numbers off hand, but if you have the latest Geno's catalog it will be in there. Installation is easy so don't be alarmed about that. Ask the other guys what they like for there are all kinds available. Dave
tagalong, i have a 33foot 5er. the trailer ,my ram, wife and two kids went to a truck scale on our way to myrtle beach. the whole rig weighted 19,700 lbs. my truck has 3. 55s , i tow in o/d when ever i can ( flat ground) when i come to a fairly big hill ,i knock it out of o/d. no problems so far. how much do you tow compared to nontowing?i get a low as 11mpg and as high as 13. 5 it depends on how fast i run. i've towed this trailer as fast as 85mph. all that does is suck fuel. i hope this helps you out.
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95 club cab auto 3. 54 gears pack brake bd torque converter prime loc remote filter horton fan magnaguard rear cover 270hp 620 lbs torque jim jessup tune up
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95 club cab auto 3. 54 gears pack brake bd torque converter prime loc remote filter horton fan magnaguard rear cover 270hp 620 lbs torque jim jessup tune up
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