2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission The Dangers of Cast Wheels

[DPrew]

For anyone who tows heavy loads or runs over sized tires cast wheels can be dangerous. Even though many cast and forged wheels have the same weight ratings there is a big difference. Cast wheels can becomes stressed from over sized tires or heavy loads and shatter with no notice.

Forged wheels will bend if they get over loaded but they will not break like a cast wheel. I was only going about 10 mph last year when my cast wheel exploded and ruined my tire. Cast wheels will usually only hold 65 psi not 80 psi. I don't know how you can rate a wheel as an E load rating (3420 lbs) if it can only handle a D range psi.

I thought my Eagle Alloy wheels were a bargain for about $325 but I realized my life is worth more than that. I shelled out $1300 for a set of forged Weld wheels because life is too short to take unnecessary risks. Has anyone else had a wheel self destruct?

 

[Bob4x4]

Self destruct no ,Forged wheels with a bit of abuse... .....

yes



Bob

 

[WestTN]

Tires too big for the rim width tend to move the bead force toward the outer edge of the rim flange instead of the force being spread equally across the flange face.



Squeezing a much wider tire on a rim will also cause excessive wear in the middle of the tire even though this is not normally a trait of a radial.



If you want more than about 2 steps bigger tires, you should probably buy wider rims to accomodate the tires.

 

[DonTX]

I don't suppose all wheels are created equal, but a strong reason for going to Alcoa wheels, is that they are FIVE TIMES as strong as a steel wheel, and are lighter.

 

[Ragain]

DPrew..... I also ran Eagle alloy wheels for a short time. Twice I had hairline cracks at the valve stem hole. Eagle warranted them only after I exclaimed that both were on steer axle. (which was hard to dispute since its a dually wheel polished for front axle application) First they claimed I had overloaded the wheels until they saw it was a steer axle wheel. Like you, I was feeling nervous about the wheel structural integrity and retired them to the lawn shed. Also, I did not like the aftermarket lug nut system... . went back to the stock wheels.

I am considering American Force adapters to use Alcoa 22. 5" X 10 lug truck wheels. Is there anyone reading this post using this system?

 

[DPrew]

I never ran a tire larger than a 275R on my wheels. The alloy wheels are rated for only a 245R but I think that was probably done to get most users to void the warrantee. Nobody is going to put skimpy 245R tires on a set of new 3/4 ton rated wheels. The 275R tires aren't recommended for use on the next larger 10" wide wheel.

I think the whole 3420 lb at 65 PSI rating for the wheels was BS. If the wheel can't handle 80 PSI it shouldn't be recommended for use on 3/4 and one ton trucks. I'm willing to bet that 75% of the wheels sold for heavy duty trucks are cast. There are only a few manufacturers out there making forged wheels.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I don't suppose all wheels are created equal, but a strong reason for going to Alcoa wheels, is that they are FIVE TIMES as strong as a steel wheel, and are lighter.

I was lucky to score one of the last runs Alcoa's Mickey Thompson Challengers. These are drop forged too. M/T's Classic II's are cast.

 

[NVR FNSH]

I never ran a tire larger than a 275R on my wheels. The alloy wheels are rated for only a 245R but I think that was probably done to get most users to void the warrantee. Nobody is going to put skimpy 245R tires on a set of new 3/4 ton rated wheels. The 275R tires aren't recommended for use on the next larger 10" wide wheel.



I think the whole 3420 lb at 65 PSI rating for the wheels was BS. If the wheel can't handle 80 PSI it shouldn't be recommended for use on 3/4 and one ton trucks. I'm willing to bet that 75% of the wheels sold for heavy duty trucks are cast. There are only a few manufacturers out there making forged wheels.

IIRC, my 315/75R16's D range tires are rated for a higher capacity at 50psi than my old 255/85R16 E range tires at 85 psi. I'm not a tire/wheel expert but I'm not sure there is a correlation between tire/wheel PSI rating and 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck 'rating'.



Brian

 

[BarryG]

This was quite a few years ago like 20+. Had a 74 Chevy C20 pickup with full time 4x4. Was driving down a mountain road that was the twisty curvy type. Came around a corner doing 35ish mph. Went to hit the brakes to slow a bit more for the next upcoming turn and all of a sudden the truck veered sharply to the left into the oncoming traffic lane. Got pulled over on the other side of the road and got out to check out what happened. Found all six lugnuts sheered off on the left front wheel and the wheel was riding on the outer hub of the axle. Holy crap I missed a major accident there. Took my wheel in to try and find a match for it (riding on the hub had ruined the wheel). The guy at the tire and wheel place said I was lucky. Apparently they quit making wheels like that due to that very same reason. The center was too stiff and would not flex. The wheels were not aftermarket but they were off a jeep j20 pickup of the same year.

 

[DPrew]

I think you'll find that there is a lot less tire sidewall flex and better handling while towing heavy (12K - 18K) with an E rated tire. The E rated tire will also do a better job of not getting out of round at point of contact with the ground because there is a greater force (PSI) pushing from inside the tire to help it maintain it's shape under a load. You will probably even get better gas mileage with an E rated tire while towing because the tire will maintain it's shape better and create less friction (resistance).