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Thermocoupler location on exhaust manifold

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RBellah

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I am interested in purchasing some gauges and have been looking at different brands and mounts for my three gauge need - Pyro, Boost, Trans temp. While looking at different vendors websites I see there are two popular vendors that have different ideas on where the thermocouple mounts on the exhaust manifold and the method for drilling it out is also different. One has it mounted on top so it will read cylinders 1-3 and the other has it on the side of manifold where the exhaust exits downward from cylinders 4-6. The note for the latter says the top mount temperature will read significantly higher than the one on the side. One says not to use grease on drill bit so you can vacuum shavings out and so on. I am not suggesting either of these vendors in right or wrong I am just wanting to know how some of you have yours mounted and your procedure for drilling and the shavings ordeal and what your thoughts are on the differences.

Prices from both sources are competitive and appear to give great customer service. Your feedback appreciated as always...
 
All three of the Rams I've owned have had a thermocouple installed on the side of the manifold between cylinders 3 and 4. No grease or vacuum cleaner suction was used to catch or remove any drill cuttings. Have never experienced a turbo failure.
 
I've had the best luck with idling the engine with the exhaust mostly closed off and not using any grease on the bit - I drill over the rear cylinders. That way the shavings are either blown out the hole I'm drilling (wear safety goggles!) or they just lay in the manifold since at idle there isn't enough force to push them through. The rest of the shavings in the manifold are easy to collect with a magnet. I was able to get it completely cleaned out.
Splurge and get yourself a fresh new bit and you'll end up with fewer small metal pieces and mostly just two long spiral cut shavings. Believe me you'll be glad you have a good sharp bit.
 
I've had exhaust brakes on all the trucks I've owned... . I've installed the probe into the test port in the exhaust brake that's on the engine side of the butterfly... this reads an average temperature after the turbo... there has a lot of words said about the pro's and con's of this... but for me its worked... I've used a drop of 50* from the exhaust manifold to the brake and I can't share who gave me that suggestion... I was thinking that leaving the engine idling when doing the drilling and tapping makes a lot of sense to me and it's something that I'd try...

Hope this helps...
 
Mine is in the collector prior to the turbo. No grease, no vacuum. I did use a magnet to gather large chips. No issues 40k later.
 
As to where to mount (side or top) your choice. Should be pre turbo. Can have a large temp drop after turbo. Turbos convert heat to energy. I used a vaccum cleaner while drilling and then a magnet after. If I missed anything I don't think the exhaust side of the turbo will notice it.
Bill
 
Mine is on top around #3, started with a small bit and worked my way up. No grease and used a flexible magnet to get all the shavings out between bit changes and after tapping.
 
Thanks for the replies fellows. Feedback is saying the t/coupler mounted on side or top makes little difference. I will start with new drill bits starting out small an work my way up. I am leaning towards the 3 gauge pillar mount and dimming of the lights would be of interest.
Auto Meter has the factory match with incandescent lighting and the Phantom II with LED any ideas on which work better for dimming purposes? I have not ruled out ISSPRO yet... just looking to a gauge that will not blind me at night and so on.
 
My Isspro EV2s are great. LED, tapped into the factory dimmer, and all are wired through their own dimmer. Very easy to adjust all together (cluster and guages) or just the guages to get just the right match for your driving conditions.
 
Yeah, I believe mine are the ISSPROs from Geno's also. Had them in my '06 then in current truck making them almost seven years old.

They look similar to the OEM gauges, are not too bright at full brightness, and are dimmed with the instrument lights. Also easy to read and interpret.
 
I have both the 3 gauge pillar pod and the 3 gauge dash pod. I like the dash one better, less obtrusive and right in line with my forward vision. The pillar , combined with window vent shades , can make a bit of a blind spot when turning left. Also if you have bifocals I find the pillar too close and too high. Once you learn where the numbers are then you just have to look for the red needle.
 
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All the mounting points availabel are somewhat non perfect and one just has to live with the fact it is an add on. The 3 in one gauge (digital and analog) would be ideal but it appears not to be of quality. If the 3 in one gauge was of quality I would do it with a single pillar mount. One could build a warn light system that would come on based on parameters of what was setup and this would take up a very small area... just a thought.
 
Shadrach thanks for that photo... its giving me a thought I might do the 2 gauge pillar mount for the pyro and boost and a single gauge mount on the steering column for the trans temp. Maybe someone can post a pic of that setup.
 
May want to look into the SRT single pod piller (keeps grab handle) with the dash pod, which IMHO, is the best for a four guage set-up (this is what I have). However, for three, I just recommend the dash pod as seen above. I think steering column guages sometimes interfere with seeing your cluster guages.
 
I've been using the same three pod A pillar mount from Genos since January '06 when the gauges were installed on my previous truck. The pod and gauges were transferred to my '08. The color match with the rest of the truck is good, fit and finish is good, durability is as good as OEM. I don't see a problem with the three pod.

Ditto the ISSPRO gauges.
 
Ordered my Triple A-pillar gauge mount and Isspro EV2's today. Pyro 1600, Boost 0-60, Trans 0-280



I also ordered the EV2 software CD so I could set the warning lights to come on. ** What do you think I should set the Pyro warning light at? 1300
 
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