Thinking about installing a gen 2 in my gen 1

[DVolk]

What is involved in swaping out my gen 1 for a gen 2 engine from a 94 to early 98 since my engine leaks oil and i want more in the power department .

What needs to be done to the wiring ? , i know ill need the newer down pipe even though i got large exhaust now . Does any one have a good Gen 2 they want to cut a deal on ? Thanks Donovan



p. s. what is the good and the bad ?

 

[BrettDuke]

How much power are you wanting? You can get decent HP for cheap out of that pump. Fuel pin, turn fuel screw in, advance timing, bigger injectors, and a modified H1C would be cheap and fun to drive.

I'm not sure on the wiring, but both of these engines only need power to the shutoff solenoid to run.

p7100 pros: more reliable at higher hp levels

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

The '96 through '98 12V with the manual trans have the 215 HP P7100 IP. If I were going to swap that's what I would look for.



Bob

 

[DVolk]

My thought is is im not real shure howmany miles is on this thing , I know the engine is leaking oil , rear seal and oil pan etc . The injectors are 500 a turbo is 300 if your lucky to 500 my pump needs redone again thanks to DCP's screw up and **** poor workmanship . so there is anouther 500 to 800 again . Im not looking for a hot rod but with 4:11 gears something that is compatible would be nice with maybe 300 hp or so heck 250 is ok , ive seen some engines in some bone yard advertised in the $2000 bracket and rebuilt ones for $3300 , im ****** that i got $1200 and no fix yet NEVER EVER BUY A PUMP FROM DCP IN TENN. There warrenty is a far as i can through a power joke engine by hand !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any body got a engine , i got trade stock !!!!!

 

[DVolk]

Bob how much did they charge you to build your pump ?

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Donovan



They did my pump in May 2001 so I would suggest you visit their web site to get a current price.



Phone #s

1-541-938-3875

1-800-822-3875

1-541-938-3887 FAX



Web Site

Wentland Diesel Service



Bob

 

[DVolk]

I got about $800 plus gaskets and seals and because i think it was not timed write anouther 250 or so in haveing a guy helpme get it right so im figureing $1100 . 00



its enough to make me spit nails trough railroad irons im so POd at DCP

Bob, was your pump built as a performance pump ?

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Mine was built at 15%+. After the warranty was up I went to work to get more out of it. You will probably notice a difference with Wentlands rebuild but there is still more there. The 3200GSK and Denny T pin came after the new pump.



Bob

 

[Paychk]

More HP = more fuel, so mileage will take a hit.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

My mileage for the year 2009 was 19. 32 - 2010 it is to date 19. 49 in 50/50 mixed driving. I have always believed that it is your right foot that is the best mileage control you've got. It is true that more fuel = more HP but if you improve breathing you can achieve better than average power and good mileage as long as you keep your foot out of it.



Bob

 

[DVolk]

My exsperience with More HP , is HP saves you money if you use it correctly , if you dont it cost lots of $$ I have plenty exsperience with hot rod big rigs with Small cam cummins engines most of which putting 480HP to 525+ HP to the ground and all produceing 9. 5 MPG So you tell me what saves money ? But then yet im not after a hot rod im after performance that the engine is designed to do renember are engines in there bigger brother mid range buisness class trucks are built to be 300HP engines so why not run it ? there twice as big and 4 times as heavy and get decent milage so there for we should get great ,milage in the same situation if things ae set up correctly .

 

[JLEONARD]

More HP = more fuel, so mileage will take a hit.

Only when you use the HP. Otherwise mileage will remian pretty much the same.

I notice perhaps a 1 mpg change if I drove mine exceptionally hard as opposed to grampy style. :-laf

 

[Paychk]

My post should have read "may take a hit" some folks do have self control and will keep their foot out of it... but a lot won't; and as they say, your mileage may very

 

[DVolk]

Very much true other than a truck with 4:11s never has been the best in milage toi begin with

 

[Overdrive]

What is involved in swaping out my gen 1 for a gen 2 engine from a 94 to early 98 since my engine leaks oil and i want more in the power department .

What needs to be done to the wiring ? , i know ill need the newer down pipe even though i got large exhaust now . Does any one have a good Gen 2 they want to cut a deal on ? Thanks Donovan



p. s. what is the good and the bad ?

If you have both engines side by side, you would need the engine mounts from the gen 1, the rear engine plate, clutch, flywheel, bellhousing (or flex plate, torque converter), if you want to keep your existing transmission. The front drive belt stuff should be the same. If you want to keep your vacuum power brakes, you'll have to use the gen 1 vacuum pump and power steering pump. I'm about to do this to my truck, using a '97 engine and transmission. I haven't compared the wiring yet. Best bet is if someone had the wiring diagrams for your truck and the year engine you wanted to install and start from there.



Downpipe may need to be a mix of gen 1 (most of the pipe) and gen 2 (turbo flange) to clear everything right.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Check for the extra bolt patterns on the later engines. There should be some other bolt holes in the block for the motor mounts, which should accomodate the earlier mounts. Some of the 12 valves no-gotty!! I can't tell you which. Most should go in there just fine. You'll find all the wire loom pretty much the same, as your sensor sending units should all fit fine, your alternator, starter wires, etc. You will have to use your engine adapter, bell housing, etc. The pump solenoid will take an extra wire from the starter relay to activate the shut off selenoid and make it pull up, but the other wires for run and ground are a no brainer. And you CAN use your exhaust, with some slight modifications. Always remember, though, bigger is better on the exhaust side. And I need to check and see, does anyone know, can you clamp the turn down on the back of the HX 35s after removing the 45 degree bend? I'll have to set them up next to each other.....

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

You can use your original H1-C turbo if the replacement engine doesn't come with one and everything will line up fine. You can also use the original downpipe if you get a different exhaust housing for the HX-35 or replace the cast elbow wastegate cover with one that has the flange. It will take a little coaxing to get it clamped since it is 1/4" longer on the exhaust side than the non-wastegated 18cm housing on the stock H1-C

If you choose to go with 4" exhaust, it can be a real pain to get it to clear the t-case and keep it from touching anything else. In my 92, I used a 2nd gen HX-40 downpipe and built the rest of the pipe myself. 2nd gen 4" is tight getting past the firewall because of the angle, but a hammer will make almost anything fit! :-laf

The wiring should be pretty simple.

 

[DVolk]

What is the steering diffrence , on the powersteering and vacume pump set ups ?

wireing is in the chiltons

 

[HHhuntitall]

If you use a P-pumped motor out of a mid '96 or earlier, there shouldn't be any difference. Later models with hydraboost brakes have a second power steering return line from the brake booster. I believe your original steering pump and vaccum pump will fit the later models 12 valves, though. The later model vacuum pumps typically pull more vacuum volume than the earlier diaphram models, but either should work just fine, as long as they are working.

 

[DVolk]

What is the diffrence on the power steering and vaccumme pump ???