Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Thinking of replacing the OEM ff with an inline ff

[rweis]

I have a RACOR 690 fuel filter on the fuel line right out of the tank.



It seperates free water and filters particulates at 10 microns. I live in Fl and can put a fuel heater and a WIF light on it if need be.



In an effort to cool the VP input fuel I find that the OEM ff adds 10* to the input VP fuel temperature. Probably due to under hood or engine heat.



I am thinking of replaceing the OEM ff with a 8 micron inline ff. Since I already have the RACOR 690 to really filter the fuel, the inline ff is mainly to catch anything that might flake loose in the plumbing system before the VP44.



What negatives do you see in removing the OEM ff? I know there is a circuit block on it. Can that wire harness circuit block be removed from the OEM ff and "bagged" without harm to the ECM / PCM system?



As far as I know the circuit block has the WIF and fuel temperature sensor and fuel heater connections in it.



I put Stanadyne PF in every tank so pour point is not an issue.



Bob Weis

 

[Steve Campbell]

rweis, I read in another thread that someone had "ducted" some frontal air to the top of the VP44 to cool the electronics.



In the winter I "insulate" the outside 3/4 of the fuel filter (leaving the engine side uninsulated) to maintain the engine heat to the fuel coming to the VP44.



Putting these two together... . could a person insulate the engine side of the FF and then duct frontal air to the VP44 and the FF to reduce the temperature of the incoming fuel as much as relocating the filter?



I know, this does not answer your direct question, however, I always think of the "simplest" solutions first and then move on to more complex fixes, barring success at the simpler level.



Steve

 

[rweis]

Thanks,



Relocating it is a problem to insure adequate fuel flow, fuel heater, etc.



Insulating it from the engine, or puting it in its own "compartment" with air flow. Something like a insulated coffee can and a fan on the top or bottom.



What do you use to insulate it in the winter?



Definitely easier than reloacting.



Bob Weis

 

[Steve Campbell]

I used some black foam like material that was originally intended to insulate a pipe. It comes in a long tube and when split, wants to return to it's tube like shape. I had purchased it a number of years before in a surplus store. Lowes, Home Depot, etc. have similar material, however I have not seen it in larger sizes there.



Perhaps I should say that fiberglass is not a good option.



Good luck~~~~



Under His Grip

Steve

 

[rweis]

I was looking at the structure of the ff. What do you think about the following:



2 hose clamps big enough to go around the ff



A light weight sheet metal, or aluminum shield behind the ff between it and the block. The size would be top to bottom and 6" either side of the ff.



Figuer a way to attach the shield to the clamps.



The shield would have to stand off from the body of the ff by 1/2" or so.



Ideas? Also see below.



Bob Weis



A second idea tht I'm toying with:



Put a 6" 250 cfm or a 8" 500 cfm a/c powered duct blower between the VP and the ff blowing toward the cab. It draws air around the VP, blows on the ff, run with the engine running while temperatures are over ?? and could be left on after shutdown to blow some of the hot under hood air down the transmission tunnel and keep the VP from heat soaking as much. (if it would indeed blow the air down the transmission tunnel)



Notice it is a/c power. I have an 400w inverter in the cab and the typical fans only take 120v 30w - 120v 50w. Could do a timer in the inverter in the cab as far as fan control & shut down after an hour or so.



They have them at building supply stores from 4" to 20" @ ~ $30 - $50. Just have to figuer how to mount it.



This would also work with the ff heat shield concept at the top of the reply.



Ideas?