Throttle Position Sensor Quandary or FUBAR?

[CrewCabDiesel]

Before you go parts crazy don't forget to check both batteries, connections and grounds, more than 2 sensor codes (including stored codes) start cleaning connections. For as long as I can remember chrysler products have had serious ground issues. in Florida electic connectors corrode super fast. If I have a transmission shift problem, APPS code etc, first thing is I clean battery connectors and check batteries. I seen poor ground connections completely freak out my 2010 T&C , outside they look good, take them off and they are a mess.

 

[CharlesHoward]

Thanks!
All the Battery Cables and New Batteries look good and clean and tight.
Have driven the Truck over 160 miles since bringing it home from the shop and NO CELs albeit the long standing occasional ABS & Brake Light ding and lights came on once (rear wheel sensors per scan tool..)
The Ebay TPS is used but looks new and will carry it for "insurance" (along with the Multifunction Switch and upgraded Trans parts).
The Alpharex Lux Headlights arrived this week. Unless I get really motivated it will wait on a SEP 6 (!) appt at local Auto Shop.
So far so good!

 

[Ozymandias]

About the rear ABS dings...
I had that problem to and it boiled down to a broken wire between axle and Chassis.
Replaced that part with a pigtail and never a Ding again for the last 7 years, before I replaced twice the sensor to no avail.
If you think about how much that wire has to move, free hanging there, sure it will brake.

 

[CharlesHoward]

Thanks!
any more specifics on where that wire is /what color / actually visible - its not in a wire loom? I can creep under my Truck sometime when the cement we're parked on is cool...
Per the Hayne's Manual it looks like a small bundle of wires and suggests replacement vs fixing...

 

[Ozymandias]

It's only to wires going from the axle up to the wiring harness that runs along the left chassis member.
Open the wiring harness a little bit so you can access it, replace the wires all the way up and 2" into the main harness.
Use solder connectors there!
Make the new wires long enough to Zip-tie them to the Brake line that runs down to the axle, put them into a convolute first.

 

[Ozymandias]

Oh, and try to get high flex wires for replacement. That's the best, but any stranded wire will do fine too.

I guess you have replaced the sensor already?
It can go bad but it's very unlikely.

 

[endoscott]

Ozy, where do you source the high flex wire. Someplace like McMaster-Carr?

 

[Ozymandias]

Ozy, where do you source the high flex wire. Someplace like McMaster-Carr?

Can't help you here as I got it in Switzerland back then at my buddies company, they stocked it in their maintenance workshop.

Hi-Flex is generally more strands per AWG gauge then normal standard stranded wire.
A good shop tells you this number so you can tell it is Hi-Flex.

 

[User113]

Might consider this one from digikey: 413/44 wire

18 AWG (same gauge as from sensor to harness) with 413 strands. Flexible silicone insulation, available in red or black (originally designed for test leads). A bit pricey, but should be an over-engineered lifetime replacement. Currently in stock.

 

[Topzide]

Hi-flex wire comparison would be: battery cable verses welding cable. That's why a lot of people replace battery cable with welding cable do to the flexibility that it offers let alone the extra amp load it can carry! When repairing that harness, I'd get some cloth harness tape and then put in expandable braid wire loom. That way it could take the abuse it's exposed to back there! Copy that about the hot concrete! Fans help but you don't want to put your hand down! Maybe an early morning project or set up a tarp over the bed of the truck day before to give you the shade needed to get it done. Be careful with the heat.

 

[CharlesHoward]

Good news is TWO almost 100 mile roundtrips and Truck runs fine with NO CEL albeit ABS/Brakelight indicators remain common...pending below 90+ degree weekends