Thumbs up for Standard Transmission!!

[dblake]

Traveling cross country I thought it would be time to replace my stock clutch that had 160K miles. Since I was going through central Texas I thought I’d take my truck to the experts at Standard Gear and Transmission in Fort Worth. I’m sure glad I did. While they had my clutch out they found my input shaft worn. Based on their advice I decided to replace it. Then when they had it apart they found some synchros bad. Since I was traveling through town they put their other jobs aside and prioritized my repairs. They had all parts in stock and are definitely the experts. Any other shop and I probably would have been stuck longer or not able to fix my transmission at all. I highly recommend them for transmission repairs.

 

[GAmes]

Are they doing repairs on site now or did you take it to a sub contractor?

 

[dblake]

Are they doing repairs on site now or did you take it to a sub contractor?

Repairing on site. They had to replace about 20% of my parts. Can’t wait to drive it tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

 

[GAmes]

Thanks. That is a welcome change.

 

[EricViviano]

@dblake How do you like the RV 275 injectors and the EMS CAD delete?

 

[Michaelsloft]

Repairing on site. They had to replace about 20% of my parts. Can’t wait to drive it tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

How have the clutch and NV5600 repairs worked out? Successful I hope?

 

[Michaelsloft]

@dblake How do you like the RV 275 injectors and the EMS CAD delete?

X2

 

[Chief USA]

Another great transmission builder/rebuilder to keep in mind if you are ever in Manor, Texas is Super Stick Transmission. Give Cody a call. He is a wealth of information.

https://supersticktransmissions.com/

 

[dblake]

@dblake How do you like the RV 275 injectors and the EMS CAD delete?

Love the injectors! Really woke up the truck. I also replaced my turbo with a modified stock from BD. Nothing fancy. Just a titanium wheel to reduce turbo lag and upped the boost to about 25 p.s.i. I did them both at the same time. It did increase the black smoke though. If you do the CAD delete I would recommend putting an extra seal in it(one inner/one outer) Mine leaked a bit until I did that.

 

[dblake]

How have the clutch and NV5600 repairs worked out? Successful I hope?

She runs great. Clutch feels like stock but from seeing the difference between it and the South Bend I know it will hold up longer.

 

[Michaelsloft]

She runs great. Clutch feels like stock but from seeing the difference between it and the South Bend I know it will hold up longer.

Great! Enjoy many safe miles and adventures.

 

[dblake]

Another great transmission builder/rebuilder to keep in mind if you are ever in Manor, Texas is Super Stick Transmission. Give Cody a call. He is a wealth of information.

https://supersticktransmissions.com/

Yes. I looked at them. Didn’t want to be stuck in a small town. I also wasn’t sure if they work on trucks or just rebuild trannies. If Standard Transmission didn’t step up I would have taken it to them.

 

[GCroyle]

dblake,

The pic of the input shaft in your post, is that the one that came out or the one that went in?

Gary

 

[dblake]

dblake,

The pic of the input shaft in your post, is that the one that came out or the one that went in?

Gary

It’s the one that came out.

 

[GCroyle]

If the pilot shaft wear is the reason they replaced the shaft the driver is in control of using the service life of the pilot bearing/input shaft surface. At a stop light select N whenever possible and safe, clutch pedal UP. No pilot wear. But if you hold it in gear at a light pilot service life is being used.

That lets the pilot and input shaft spin at engine RPM not engine RPM for pilot vs a stationary shaft.

Hope all's well and it's time to enjoy the windshield view.

 

[gtwitch]

First thing I had to do to my 99 2500 after purchase at 80 K miles is replace the pilot bearing as it was powdered and seized and could not get into or out of gear with engine running, at the light. I did not replace the input shaft (just cleaned it with purple scotchbrite) and it lasted over another 100K before the NV4500 started to come apart at the output end of the transmission and this was self caused by me using wrong lube.

 

[dblake]

If the pilot shaft wear is the reason they replaced the shaft the driver is in control of using the service life of the pilot bearing/input shaft surface. At a stop light select N whenever possible and safe, clutch pedal UP. No pilot wear. But if you hold it in gear at a light pilot service life is being used.

That lets the pilot and input shaft spin at engine RPM not engine RPM for pilot vs a stationary shaft.

Hope all's well and it's time to enjoy the windshield view.

Thanks for the tip. I’ve always put it in neutral since new. I blame it on Dodge for using a crappy pilot bearing. I did have a bad habit of resting my hand on the stick. I also had to learn not to climb hills or use my exhaust brake in sixth. It used to pop out of sixth sometimes. They replaced reverse which they said was common for my mileage and a few synchros. There was also a bearing underneath one of my gears that was toast. I was kind of surprised to see the damage since the transmission was acting fine. I feel lucky I caught it before anything failed.

 

[GCroyle]

Pilot bearing design and selection can be the fodder for campfire debate.

I've run into the following variations.

None. Many FWD car and even a Tacoma V6 ran w/o one.
Oillite brass bronze bushings. A bit old school but still used. Plus is when wear out they usually can't damage the shaft they are not hard enough. Minus can't provide the same load capacity as a needle bearing. Minus use grease on it and regret it. I did one on an F-100 back in the 80's and it chirped during clutch engagement.
Needle bearing. Higher load capacity size for size vs brass. Minus when they fail it can really chew up a mainshaft.
Ball bearing. Used by many European cars with RWD.
Bushings with a non stick surface, teflon type. Honda has used these.

Don't take the above as the complete book of pilot bearing info, exceptions always are possible.

But the one that had me scratching my head was that Ford used the same open needle pilot from small 50's and 60's small gas engines and even put it in the last of the 7.3L diesel with a 13" disc a bunch heavier than the little Mustang engines.

How to keep any pilot happier, stab trans CAREFULLY! and save the pilot for when you really need it, shifting. When your cruising down the road foot off of pedal, pilot is asleep.

 

[dblake]

Pilot bearing design and selection can be the fodder for campfire debate.

I've run into the following variations.

None. Many FWD car and even a Tacoma V6 ran w/o one.
Oillite brass bronze bushings. A bit old school but still used. Plus is when wear out they usually can't damage the shaft they are not hard enough. Minus can't provide the same load capacity as a needle bearing. Minus use grease on it and regret it. I did one on an F-100 back in the 80's and it chirped during clutch engagement.
Needle bearing. Higher load capacity size for size vs brass. Minus when they fail it can really chew up a mainshaft.
Ball bearing. Used by many European cars with RWD.
Bushings with a non stick surface, teflon type. Honda has used these.

Don't take the above as the complete book of pilot bearing info, exceptions always are possible.

But the one that had me scratching my head was that Ford used the same open needle pilot from small 50's and 60's small gas engines and even put it in the last of the 7.3L diesel with a 13" disc a bunch heavier than the little Mustang engines.

How to keep any pilot happier, stab trans CAREFULLY! and save the pilot for when you really need it, shifting. When your cruising down the road foot off of pedal, pilot is asleep.

South Bend provides a sealed bearing with their clutch kit.