2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Time for control arms

[gary johnson]

Have purchased upper and lower control arms from Hell Bent steel. For the buck, they looked better designed than BDs and I'm curious if anyone has replaced theirs and what to expect when doing the job. (ugh) Would their be tension on the axle? Is there a sequence to follow? If I keep the same distance between bolt holes can I make it to a shop for alignment? Geeeez.....sounds like I'm losing sleep over this!

 

[Bob4x4]

The amount of work will depend on the amount of rust.If you have any time restraints make sure to have the correct factory bolts on hand before you tear it down.Support the frame and axle,do one side at a time and there will be very small amount of movement.

 

[CNorthrup]

Takes about 45 min. Mine did not move at all, no support. Just pulled the arms off one at a time!

 

[gary johnson]

Thanks for the tips !!

 

[JMcCoy]

Start hitting them with PB Blaster now. Please let us know how you like them.

 

[gary johnson]

Start hitting them with PB Blaster now. Please let us know how you like them.

Thanks JM I hit them this afternoon with PB. Nice being in the SW as rust is usually not a problem.
Received the control arms from Hell Bent yesterday and noticed the super quality as soon as I opened the box! Man are these things BEEFY......1 1/2 steel rod , drilled and threaded for the ends and powder coated. Ends are cast with zerk fittings for the replaceable bushings held in with a big snap ring. One cast end threads in left and the other right so the adjustment is made by turning the link rod then a jamb nut on each end is torqued to hold the setting. The cast ends and threads are gold anodized and the kit comes with new mounting bolts and blue Loctite.
Am impressed.........but .......recommended that torque and Loctite be checked every 3000 miles or heavy use. Not a bolt on and forget it install. Oh well, I'll just add that to my maintenance list. Will do the install next week end so opinions of performance will follow. Thanks Bob4x4 and CNorhtrup for your comments and experience!....install instructions say to use jack stands under the axle, so I'll go with that

 

[seafish]

Guys, I am also due fairly soon for some aftermarket control arms, so a quick question--

My understanding is that LONGER control arms allow more suspension travel and thus can improve ride quality,

BUT, I am wondering if upgraded, longer control arms can improve the ride quality on a STOCK height truck??

Or do you HAVE to lift the truck in order to utilize the longer control arms??

TIA

 

[RLHannink]

I put Hell Bent arms on my 97, to replace well-worn stock bushings (420k miles) and kick the axle forward a bit to clear 285's with chains (don't ask why I feel like I need that clearance), and so the truck would hold an alignment. The install was a total breeze, the "un-install" was a total b****! Here's my advice: PB Blast' everything involved starting a month in advance, have some good long punches on hand, a good set of heavy hammers, and angle grinder with several new disks. I ended up cutting the old lower arms as close as I could to the rear joints, then cutting perpendicular through the bushings and bolts, then they came out. Oh, add to the list a full grinding face mask and a method to ventilate the garage (if you do it during the northern NV winter), as the rubber smells fairly strong when cut with an angle grinder. And as mentioned, support the frame then use a floor jack to nudge the axle up and down to where you need it

I would recommend carefully, carefully, measure the distances from center to center of the bolts on the arm ends, then extend the new arms all the same amount. I tried rolling the axle back a smidge to help with alignment, but it's easier to use the factory cam bolts to do that. there seems to be a lot of adjustment in those.

I bought some "man" wrenches to torque the locknuts on the ends, was a little tricky to get them tight while keeping them oriented the same. I was also worried about all the warnings and locktite included, but they are still tight after about 25k miles, never loosened up.

As far as the arms, they are great! It took 6000 miles before they loosened up enough to stuff grease in them, before that it would puke grease back out of the zerks. Flex like mad, more than my worn out rubber-bushing'd arms. Transmit a bit more shock into the frame/cab, but not too bad. One thing I just noticed on my last Moab adventure, is that with the axle pushed forward an inch, the diff touches the Rare Parts track bar ball joint end. On heavier hits, it more than touches, but that's not really because of the Hell Bent arms, it's because of my lust for tire clearance. Do I spring for a 3rd gen track bar on a truck with 448k on it? haha or just pull the axle back 1/4", use judgment about going where chains are necessary, and pay for another alignment? hmmm

I wouldn't say the longer arms improve the ride quality, but they do hold the axle well. Looking back I wish I hadn't moved the axle a full 1" forward, so beware of pushing it too far as you might run into interference issues. I have a 2.5" leveling kit but apparently I have more uptravel than I thought I do.

The arms look great! Very recommended and worth the work and price

 

[Bob4x4]

When the term long arm is used it is referring to more than adjustable arms. The pivot points are moved to allow the long arm install. They do prove the ride and help minimize u joint angle change

 

[Arctic Taco]

I replaced mine with some from Dodge Off Road, made in USA, they rock, tightened everything up. You may have to press apart the pockets to fit them in but good stuff, and way burly.

 

[Regcabguy]

Have purchased upper and lower control arms from Hell Bent steel. For the buck, they looked better designed than BDs and I'm curious if anyone has replaced theirs and what to expect when doing the job. (ugh) Would their be tension on the axle? Is there a sequence to follow? If I keep the same distance between bolt holes can I make it to a shop for alignment? Geeeez.....sounds like I'm losing sleep over this!

Those are some beefy arms!

 

[Arctic Taco]

One of them weighs about as much as 3 of the stock ones I think,. The hardest part of the install was spreading the pockets and wrestling those heavy dogs into place. I did it out in Kantishna 90 miles off of the highway, and have driven the alcan since, looking for a good alignment shop that has experience with lifted rigs.
I originally lifted it due to the weight of the Ranch Hand front bumper, ended up picking up a KORE levelling kit to replace the levelling puck. The better spring rate really helped out the ride and handling.
So you can swap them out one ata time with no major drama. Just need a couple of big drift punches, some1/2" allthread and nuts and washers, a couple of long bent tip tire irons and an assortment of prybars, some blocks of wood and a 2# hammer. Ofcourse keep everything well supported and be real careful.