Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) time for front brakes

[chopperman]

Hey all, I have an 01 4wd CTD and its been awile since I've done a brake install. I need your advice on what tools I need and what pads to buy also is this something I can do myself? The rotors are good, no warping, My style of driving is mostly highway no pulling and a little hauling from time to time many thanks Brian

 

[rotohead]

I have a 98 so I'm no help on the tools question but I do like the Hawk HP pads sold at Geno's Garage www.genosgarage.com

Very quiet, low dust and long wear.

Chuck

 

[NWhitney]

EBC Pads

You are lucky like me and have should have outboard Disk Brakes. You can easily remove your rotors to have them turned... and you should! Don't put a new set of pads on unturned rotors no matter how "good" they look. You may have some trouble finding a place that has a machine that will turn our very large rotors. My local NAPA turned mine.



No special tools needed. Install is very straight forward. Remove caliper bolts, remove caliper, OPEN bleed screw, press caliper into bore, CLOSE bleed screw, install new pads and reinstall caliper, top off brake fluid. You do NOT want to press the brake fluid back threw the ABS on our trucks.



My Brake Pads... . My truck has a set of EBC Green Stuff Heavy Duty SUV Supreme Pads. Pricey but WELL worth the money if you ever have had brake fade. No brake fade with these pads. Brakes get better as they get hotter. Also very low brake dust.



Just my 2 cents

 

[KTobin]

No special tools needed. Install is very straight forward. Remove caliper bolts, remove caliper, OPEN bleed screw, press caliper into bore, CLOSE bleed screw, install new pads and reinstall caliper, top off brake fluid. You do NOT want to press the brake fluid back threw the ABS on our trucks.



I've done my front and rear pads twice as well as a buddy's, totalling aproximately 20 times that I've compressed calipers back into their bores without cracking the bleed screws and have not run into any troubles yet. I've never been aware that the bleed screw must be cracked on ABS systems! Have I simply been lucky or because I compress the caliper very slowly, I haven't messed anything up. My factory service manual makes no mention of this precaution. What risk, exactly, have I been running.



Kevin

 

[NWhitney]

I thought I read it in the factory service manual but maybe it was for my wifes VW Jetta not the CTD. The reason given was because the calipers are the lowest place in the brake system and any rust from the brake lines or other contamination will accumulate in the piston bores. When you depress the piston back into the bores you force the brake fluid back into the the master cylinder. On a vehicle with ABS the fluid goes through the ABS pumps before it gets back to the Master. The theory being that the rust and other contamination will plug up the small passages in the ABS pump and cost you a couple hundred dollar repair bill in the future. So two dollars in brake fluid now can save you a couple hundred on an ABS pump in the future.

 

[KTobin]

Makes sense, I'll start doing it. Thanks



Kevin

 

[JJanetka]

I called my local napa the other week to inquire about having my rotors turned(they are at the limit of runout) and they qouted me $70 per rotor. Holy cow did that go up since the last time a had rotors done. When I asked him if I should leave the unit bearing on he sounded like he wasn't sure. Nwhitney how did they turn yours?Oh and good suggestion about cracking the bleeders. I've changed a boatload of brakes and never thought about the abs. For another $30 bucks I can get powerslots so I may go that route.

 

[socalmat]

I bought new rotors from Napa for around $75 each.

 

[Jeff Knight]

JJanetka, On the newer trucks the rotors slide over the wheel studs. Different from your 95. Jeff

 

[NWhitney]

I think I was charged $25 a peice to have mine turned. Yeah mine were done with out the hub/bearing unit. They said that the hard part about turning our '01 up rotor is the large "dish" or backspace.