Here I am

Time for new brake pads

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03 24,500 miles all balljoints bad!

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Ok who here has already done there brakes. Its time to do mine and want to buy some quality pads, not some autozone ones. Tried genos and other on the brake links here but nothing there. Thanks ahead

Kory
 
ROCKJEEP said:
Ok who here has already done there brakes. Its time to do mine and want to buy some quality pads, not some autozone ones. Tried genos and other on the brake links here but nothing there. Thanks ahead

Kory



What's wrong with autozone? Sure they sell crap, but they also sell some good stuff and great prices. You just have to know what to ask for. Personally, I've had great luck with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. I haven't tried them on a 3rd gen yet, but that's what I plan to get when brake time comes. They are on my Jeep and were on my 2nd gen when I had it. In both cases they worked better than OEM for me.
 
thejeepdude said:
What's wrong with autozone? Sure they sell crap, but they also sell some good stuff and great prices. You just have to know what to ask for. Personally, I've had great luck with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. I haven't tried them on a 3rd gen yet, but that's what I plan to get when brake time comes. They are on my Jeep and were on my 2nd gen when I had it. In both cases they worked better than OEM for me.



I agree,Performance Friction Carbon Metallic is good stuff,and they don't leave brake dust all over your wheels.
 
Geez. . I've got 83K miles on my truck pulling a trailer with an exhaust brake here in the pacific northwest... . I sell the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pad and we feel there the best available... we have a lot of school bus fleets that swear by them... I'll have someone back at the shop call and see if there available tomorrow and will post the part numbers here tomorrow evening... .



I'm on the road this evening, got to be in Great Falls MT in the morning...



Jim
 
OK - The FMSI (Friction Materials standards Institute) short number for the front pads is D695 and for the rear pads is D702... Any manufacturer that builds pads to the engineering drawing used by FMSI can put that number on the box... . But it has no standard for quality of the friction material.....



We offer 2 brands of pad to our customers... . One is a Carbo Met pad that meets or exceeds the OEM for quality and we've found on our trucks that they will usually outlast the OEM product by 20 - 30%..... We either have these pads in stock or on order... .



We also offer as a premium product the Performance Friction, Carbon metalic pad... . This pad offers better stopping and longer life, usually 50% longer life... in their HD application thier parts numbers are 0695. 20 and 0702. 20... . This is their HD formula not the Z rated stuff they use on race cars..... A call to Performance Friction this morning found that they haven't started production on the front pads... . but will have them ready for shipment by the end of Nov..... and I placed an order for them... . They have the rear pad on the shelf. . because it used in another application that's been around for a while..... their comment is that in the past 2 or 3 years there have been so many new pads..... they are working to fill all the new items... . One last issue on the performance friction product... its harder on the rotors..... usually by 300K miles you're going to have to replace the rotors even if you've never worn the friction down to metal to metal contact... . To stop fast it has to be agressive, and to handle high heat with little or no fad it has to be agressive..... and the trade off is rotor wear... .



BTW - you used to be able to tell by the edge coding of the brake shoe or pad the quality of the friction..... each manufacturer used to us some dyno testing results to qualify the friction and that information was on the edge code on the pad... . with the off shore products that copy that information, edge coding has gone by the way side... and any statement on the box... . premium, High quality... etc I take with a grain of salt..... I only offer to our customers those products that I can see test results from an independent lab... ... and really like the information provided by Greening Testing Laboratories... as they are really honest people and nice to chat with on the phone... ... (their reports are to the point... and its easy to compare products)



Hope this has helped.





Jim
 
Do you need to turn the rotors when you replace the pads if you have never been metal on metal? On my GMC I used to replace the rotors and pads every 30K, cost was about $100, I tried putting on just new pads once and they were junk in 10K miles.
 
We make 2 tests with a dial indicator... . one is a sweep across the face of the rotor... anything more than . 003" means we turn it..... we also rotate the rotor... . again we allow . 003" and any more than that in runout we turn the rotor... .



Personally we've changed lots of pads..... without turning rotors... . but we always check the boots on the pistons for damage and clean and lube the surface the caliper floats on.....



Jim
 
Jelag,

Where and how do I get these pads. I need some asap. Please let me know who to call or call you to get some.

Thanks

Kory
 
Not sure if you want to hear this, but The EGR pads are simply awesome. I completely re-did the front and rear brakes on my truck and used the EGR brand Carbon/Kevlar pads and shoes along with the many other parts they offer like new Kevlar braided lines, synthetic fluid and wheel cylinders. The results were phenomenal, the difference is very evident and the truck stops much better then it ever has or better then I ever thought it might.

They are expensive when compared to many other pads, but I feel they are also well worth it. Break dust is almost a non-issue now as well, even when towing, I love them.
 
I've heard great things about the EGR pads as well, but the price is in$ane! The performance friction pads are about 50 bucks and free after that as long as you don't go metal to metal. With the EGR stuff, I'd have to plan ahead, order new pads, wait for them, install them, and pay the $$ each time. Even if the EGR pads stop 10% better and make less dust, they cost 1000%+ more over time and with the hassle that's just not worth it to me. Now on a 2nd gen, I could understand going the EGR route, as their calipers are a world above the stock 2nd gen calipers and the whole system will get you to nearly 3g performance... but alas, that's one main reason I sold my '99 and decided to get the '05. The 3G brakes kick arse, even stock, and spending oodles of cash to make the even better seems kind of ridiculous, unless you're towing a LOT and don't have an exhaust brake or a decent trailer brake, or just have money coming out your ears. :)
 
Man, I thought I was hard on brakes :-laf



I've got 55,000 on my dually, towing most every weekend, and mine look like they will go to 100,000 pretty easy.



I didn't check your signature before I responded, but I use the transmission for stopping and I also run my trailer brakes pretty tight. Between engine braking and trailer brakes, I believe the "stop and go" unloaded I do through the week is harder on brakes!



Anyway, back to the post, I've used the performance friction pads on numerous occasions with good luck. They aint nothing like the Wilwood stuff I used on my sprinter, but they don't cost as much either, lol.
 
I called performance friction and they don't have any for my truck yet. So I got the EGR pads. Put them on last night and WOW what a difference. I did both the front and rear. The fronts were less than a 1/8 to metal. rears were good, but still changed them. Stops on a dime and gives change. A little expensive $350 to do both, but I think it was worth it.

Kory
 
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