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time for new injectors?

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Custom fleet guard coolant filter, heater core hardline delete.

Core (Hurst) short shifter NV56

In my 2004, I have 290k on the original injectors. In the last couple months, my mileage has dropped by about 4 mpg with a clean air filter. Is falling fuel mileage a common symptom of slowly degrading injectors? Time to change them before something bad happens?
 
Bosch NEW or BBi - nothing else!

Check the Forumssearch for more Info about that Topic because there are traps in the way to avoid buying Injectors.
 
I'm not going to attempt the install myself. We have a diesel performance shop in town, so it should only be a matter of specifying new Bosch's when I set up the job, right?
 
Make that INSISTING on new injectors. The typical deal is to sell you remans. If you question that the response are; new injectors do not exist, we sell hundreds of remans, we never see any issues with them. Some of that is blatantly false, the rest purely subjective and self serving. No one will readily admit to selling product they have issues with.

If you do talk them into checking that they can in fact get new injectors they frequently quote such a high price it makes most people relent and go with remans. A Bosch reman CR injector is roughly $360\per across the counter at any Bosch authorized reseller. New production run Bosch injectors should be $400-420 across the counter at the same places. Pay attention to how much they mark them up to see if you are willing to pay it or go get them yourself. You can buy injectors for the above prices, some times less, online at multiple respected sources. Frequently the difference between what you can buy online and what these shops mark them up can easily cover the install costs. Just more food for thought and dealing with the shop.

You list your truck as a 2004 which is parts change year. At 290k you go the goody out of the injectors, there have been a few updates since then. Do you know if you have an early 305\555 engine, or, a late 325\600 engine? If the tag is gone off the engine or you do not know look at the build date on the driver door or b pillar. Early 2004 engines use a different injector than the late ones, late into early engine is not a good match. Early into late will work fine.

You have the choice of a stock injector or a marine injector in all the years, it is roughly a 50 HP gain. Here are the part #'s to verify you actually got what you wanted.

New Reman
MY03 - early MY04 0445120255 0986435503

MY04.5 - early MY07 0445120238 0986435505

Marine Injectors +50 0445120254
 
I am in the same boat as Danny W. Truck runs great but the injector ping noise (not sure if this is the correct description) seems to be a bit louder at idle. Could be my hearing also. I have 212200 miles on the truck. 6560 engine hours. I change fuel filters (wix or fleetguard) at every oil change...avg 4500 - 5000 miles between changes.
Is this a good time to replace injectors before a major failure?
Are the BBI's the way to go?--which one? (I do have the Smarty---stock setting for the last few years)
Do I need to change the Smarty tune if I choose to change settings?
Does the Smarty have a negative effect on the injection system?
Do I need to install a secondary fuel filtration system?

Thanks for all the sound advise!

HJR
 
Probably a cost issue. The more you sell the less the cost. Geno's is likely not going to compete with Injectors Direct or Engineered Diesel in volume. The two firms referenced will have the injectors listed on their web page.
 
BBI has a sale (Black Week!) 15 % off new injectors. The only thing holding me back on ordering is a by-product of my Fluidampr fiasco. You know, trying to re-invent the wheel!
 
BBI has a sale (Black Week!) 15 % off new injectors. The only thing holding me back on ordering is a by-product of my Fluidampr fiasco. You know, trying to re-invent the wheel!
Since you brought up the topic....

I installed a Fluidamper on my truck in 2012 or so, and ran into the design error in which the damper created a clearance problem that prevented changing the belt. The damper was too close to the fan pulley. Last year, I sent Fluidamper a note to inquire about any resolution of that problem. They ended up selling me a factory blem that had been built with the correct dimensions to eliminate the interference problem....barely. It's still a tight fit to install a new belt.
 
I installed a FD several years ago. It made an incredible difference. The eng was so smooth and quiet that I would sctually to shift it sometimes - seriously!
Unfortunately there was a problem. On some trucks it would cause this horrendous random snapping or clicking sound at idle - and mine was one of them. No one knew what it was including FD. The sound was so bad that it just had to be distructive.
FD was familiar with the issue and was kind enough to refund my money (and didn't want bad publicity on this forum).
I ended up using the dampener for the 6.7 HO and it was also a big upgrade over the stock part. But the FD was still way better than it was.

Scott
 
Is this 6.7 damper just the plain part that they come from factory? So I can just shop for OEM 6.7 damper and it fits p-n-p?
 
Here are the part #s I used when I did my 2005 5.9 about 7 years ago..

There are 3 parts needed.
They are Cummins part numbers.


6.7 (07.5-11, non-HO) Damper PN4933224

6.7 Fan Pulley PN 4930580

4 bolts PN 4937228


Total cost, when I did it, was just under $300, so much cheaper than a fluidampr and STILL running great!!
 
Sorry I don't have P/N's but I used the HO version of the 6.7 Dampener. It's bigger and costs more than the standard 6.7 part but was reported to be a big improvement in NVH.
Since I was in there, I figured it was worth it. If I were doing it now, I would use the very latest part.
As Seafish indicated, you also need that other pulley.
 
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Great, so i just need to find the HO Part# and Pulley and bolts stay the same.
I always like to have the things at hand when i need them.
 
Prairie Dog, my truck sounded like there was a family of crickets living under the hood. I never got a straight answer from anybody, let alone any offer of help. Just a case of let the buyer beware. I even got the feeling there were some on TDR that didn't like it because I didn't like it. Not being "scientific" or a "wrench", I have wondered if the FD was sensitive enough to pick up variations from a set of not so "balanced" injectors.
 
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