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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) time to chang fuel filters?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Alternator and AC voltage

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SSolderitch

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At the price of $30+ at the dealer plus my napa pre screener, changing fuel filters are expensive... . I am not cheap and don't want to skimp but at what milage intervals do you change them? or does a 2-3 psi drop on the gauge indicating time for change? I did have problems with the antifreeze tube & traped air changing the gauge readings. I think I have only 5 or 6k on these filters.
 
Geez man, don't buy fuel filters at the dealer! Genos has 'em for less than half of that, and it's the exact same filter.



But to answer your question, I don't wait for a restriction; I change them out every 10k miles. It seems like once the pressure starts to drop it goes away pretty quickly.
 
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well i was just going to post about the inline filter. Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage have cheap prices on the oil filters and fuel filters. as far as your inline filter if its the inline screen type. fleetguard makes one #5079 that is 3/8 id. napa gold makes one also that is a #3270 I use these about 2 oil change worths. inbetween them I back flush this filter with diesel to back wash it.
 
get rid of the isolator, it is not needed and as you can see it only causes problems. the vp44 needs a minimum of 4 psi to the pump under load. just watch the gauge while pulling a hill, when it drops to 4 psi change the filter. the dirtier the filter get's the better it filters. most people change both air and fuel filters before they reach there best efficiency, enother words they are installing a poorer filter than the one they are taking out, call wix and they will confirm, also on our heavy equipment it very clearly states in the manuel not to over service the air cleaner
 
I installed before and after pressure transducers connected to a single readout. This allows me to diagnose whether the filter is plugged or the pump is failing. The current filter has over 20,000 miles on it and is still flowing freely. This saves a lot of money on unneeded filters.
 
I disagree with running a isolator. I have had 2 of them over 160k miles the only bad thing is i had to run a needle valve prior to it to damping the fuel pressure due to the fuel pressure breaking the diaphram inside. I usually run at 22psi with my FASS 150 I dont know many Gauges out there that stand behind any warranty if you dont run a isolator to my knowledge anyway. JMO
 
My normal was 17 at idle, 14/15 running - light load & 13 WOT

now I am at about 2-3 lbs under that - never below 10 psi. I try to recharge the antifreeze line, back flush the pre screener and then change the filter and see what happens.
 
I never use antifreeze you should not have to "recharge". I use pure liquid silicone spray I feel up the back of the isolator opening close and that is that. If your getting that much of a drop replace the filter. I have my pressure needled down and it takes alot to pull down just 4-5 psi on WOT. I will never let my psi go below 12-13
 
I'm getting great pricing on my filters from a local shop that I do a lot of business with. I'm also using a 5 micron fuel filter in place of the stock 10 micron. I change my fuel filter at each oil change... about 5K miles. Also, I'm using a prefilter that will unscrew and come apart for cleaning. It's just a 50 micron stainless steel screen inside of an aluminum housing. Actually, I've only had the prefilter apart a couple times, but I haven't found more than just a couple small pieces of trash in it.
 
dieselworks northern tool have glicerine filled gauges for about $10 that cover any pressure range up to 10,000 psi with no snubber or isolator needed. none of my larger cat, pete's or other equipment uses isolators and is oem
 
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