Timing Advance

[calebhaney]

How is this done on a 1st gen?Are there any special tools reqired?

Thanks

 

[calebhaney]

Also where is a good place online, trustworthy to buy 1st gen parts?Air intake, pillars ect. .

 

[9312valve]

The best places that i've found to buy any products have been Genos Garage and PDI (performancedieselinc.com) Genos has the bes prices in gauges



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93' CTD, intercooled, 2inch blocks, tweaked pump, custom 4 in exhaust, asa intake, fuel pin, many many more to come

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

I like Piers Diesel (PDR Diesel Performance). They tend to be the cheapest. Watch out though, theyre based out of Canada so add about $20 for the international money transfer per order. Otherwise, remember that the Cummins doesn't only reside in Dodges, so you can find some very interesting stuff at service shops for heavy equipment. Lot cheaper turbos and bigger factory injectors made for different applications. A lot of performance diesel companies take regular Holsets or Garretts, and maybe do a little machining on the housings, then slap their name on it and sell it for double what its worth.



Advancing the timing isn't too bad. You'll need a boxed end 13mm wrench shaped like a boomerang. If you have a torch you can make your own. Racheting boxed end wrenches will help a lot too. There's 3 bolts that hold it to the gear case. One is right up front, piece o cake. One is between the motor and the pump toward the top... good luck. The last one is underneath between the motor, the pump, and the vacuum pump. This one will make you swear like a sailor. I dropped my vacuum pump/power steering pump assembly to do the whole job, but was nearly crucified for it. It took an extra 5 minutes to pull the vacuum pump as opposed to the half hour youll waste getting the wrench on that bottom nut and then cussing when it falls off and under the truck... . its your call, and everyone else here will tell you to leave the vacuum pump alone.



Theres 1 last bolt at the back of the fuel pump, a 10mm. The pump wont budge without loosening that one, too. Crack the injector lines to relieve stress when you turn the pump. Turn the top toward the motor. Theres a factory tick mark on the pump and on the gear case, right by the first bolt I talked about. Clean it up real good before moving the pump. You may need to rescribe it a little bit. Turn the pump so the mark on the pump flange is 1/8" higher than the mark on the gear case. Use a caliper to measure, its easier. Tighten everything back down, and enjoy. You won't notice much at the low end, but accelerating on the fly gets a good boost. Makes passing on the freeway more bearable than stock. Depending on what else you have done, it also added a little throatier noise when I put my foot in it while rolling.