Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing help needed ASAP Please

[RSP]

I had set the timing at 15. 5* and it Flutters and pops. I reset to 16. 5* and is much much better but still flutters alot but not so much on the popping.

Now the confusing part. When I tore this engine down I was carefull to Mark the gears and pump shaft with a paint pen. At that time I did not realize I needed the snap-on tool to reset the timing, so thats why I marked everything. So as of right now the timing is at 16. 5* (double and tripple checked) but its still a 1/16th to 1/8th inch away from where the PO had it set. Can someone tell me what is going on with this? I really need to get this right before I put the engine in the Truck and I want to do that as soon as I can.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

So you carefully marked the pump shaft and gear so that the gear went back on in the exact same place? Without the snap on kit I'd think it would be difficult to set it back on by paint marks.

When you say you set the timing before how are you doing it, and how do you know it's set for 16. 5* or whatever? It's late at night too, but what's a "PO," and you said it's 1/16" to 1/8" off, off from what?

Vaughn

 

[RDupree]

PO is previous owner.

Randy

 

[RSP]

OK I have the Snap-on SP500 timing kit. I have set it with that kit 2 times and Like I said it is running better at 16. 5* then it did at 15. 5*.

Now what I meant about the paint marks is this. Where it is at right now, I would have to advance the pump about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch more to meet up with the Marks I made when it tore it down. So that is where the PO (Previous owner) was running it.



Also, I made a pointer to to put on the tach Studs, I set the engine at TDC with a Dial indicator on top of the number 1 piston with the injector out so I know I have true TDC.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

How many mm plunger lift and which hp version of the pump? See TDR#55 p. 95 for specs. It sounds like you have the pump retarded vs. stock.

 

[RSP]

Piers says for my pump 5. 6MM lift for 16* and I have the pump dead nuts at 5. 7 1/2 so I figure thats a little over 16. 5*

My Pump CPL is 2175

 

[RSP]

Ok I set it back to the marks I made when I took it apart which I had to turn the pump about a 1/16th of an ich at the shaft and Now it is Extrememly Snappy. VEry responsive but now has an eratic idle But runs Way better. It may be just a tad to much now. I still dont understand why. I mean it has to be around 17. 5* now. Has Anyone ran into anything like this?

 

[KingS]

Here is the easy way if you have the snap on timing kit.



On the pump there is a bolt head on the side take it off that is where the set pin is for the pump use the set tool on the back of the bolt head to set pump. Once you set the pump with this take gear off of pump.



Then spin motor to TDC now you are set at stock timing. Now all you have to do is follow procedure to advance the timing where you want it if truck still acts up you know it is something else for sure.

 

[JMiltier]

what is the best set of instructions for setting time with the snap on kit thanks cause im about to do this for the first time and don't want to end up in the same boat as RSP

 

[kbbt]

what is the best set of instructions for setting time with the snap on kit thanks cause im about to do this for the first time and don't want to end up in the same boat as RSP

check here https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96154

 

[onestackdram]

RSP, i would have to say the reason the truck is 'feeling' better now is you are either getting closer to stock or at stock, i know that may sound wierd, but don't be surprised if you didnt get the gear back on in the exact same location in regards to where the pump cam shaft and the gear meet. and while the pump was off (that is what im gathering if you tore the engine down) if you hadn't locked it in with the locking pin on the side it may have moved a little throwing the whole deal out of whack.

 

[RSP]

I marked everything with a paint pen, So it had to be very close. The engine is not in the truck so I have no idea on power But sitting and running and short revs its sounds Very snappy and responsive. It has to be right around 17. 5 cause It was at 16. 5 and I bumped it up just a tad without the Snap-on stuff. I think I am gonna put it the truck and run it for a while and see what happens.

 

[onestackdram]

you may be surprised how much a TAD is w/o the guage, and now that you said that the engine isn't in the truck, that might change things a little as well as far as how its responding to you. how are you applying load to the engine? if it's just running with nothing more than a flywheel that may be a part of it

 

[RSP]

There is no load Its just a billet flex plate. I could definitly tell it was not right cause it White smoked real bad and sounded like crap if you tried to rev it any. Now The smoke is almost gone at idle and if I rev it some its gray and not white like it was. Sounds way better and and is very snappy. Before if i tried to rev it it would flutter and pop Bad.

 

[RSP]

Looking at Piers FAQ page it shows that For higher horsepower applications, the proper timing will need to be changed according to your specific modifications. Things like injectors, and at what RPM you want to run, changes to the head gasket, and other factors can effect the pump timing and how your specific application needs to be setup.

So I assumme that why mine is the way it is since I have the 20 thousanths head gasket and bigger injectors and the 4K gsk