Timing Help

[BarryG]

I need some help for someone else. I know nothing about first gens so I am here to ask for assistance. A guy called me wanting help on timing his 92 3500 4x4. It has 255k on the odometer. He lives in rural new mexico so taking it to a local shop could be iffy. I dont know the first thing about it so I told him I would come to the place that would have the info. Can anybody give me a good description of the process or someone to call for the info. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Take a look at the link to some pictures in my readers rigs gallery.

You'll find some illustrations to give you a referrence for the timing marks, their locations and relation to each other...

Once you've done that, it is a fairly easy thing to do with some persistence and elbow grease. .



Here is the link to one particular picture... .



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=2768&width=2



Now, once you've located the place on the pump flange and gear case you may find that there is only 1 of them marked,. . if that is the case just make an opposing mark on the one without...



Next, you'll need a truly twisted wrench (15mm box end) to get the three large nuts that hold the pump to the gear case.

The center nut is very close to the indexing marks noted above.

The other two nuts are at the very top and around the back towards the engine block... one on top and one on the bottom/back side.

Loosen right off.

There is a 4 item to loosen as well... . it is a 10mm BOLT. It is kinda under the high pressure head of the pump below the injection line connections. It is a bolt that faces rearward (toward the firewall) and threads into a mounting bracket.

Loosen that one as well.



There are two of three methods of adjusting the pump from here.

First, you'll have to accept the fact that these pumps do NOT wan to cooperate very much.

The injector lines are attached and rigid, the pump to gear case gasket is probably going to resist moving as well.

No matter how you do it, you're going to need to use some BFT... (blunt force tuning)

Ok, I've good success by snugging the middle 15mm nut near the index marks just enough that when you wallop the pump with a rubber mallet, it is just tight enough to keep the pump from 'popping' back down.

If you push like mad with your left arm on the pump, and at the same time wack the AFC/pump joint area (fairly strong joint) you should be able to get it to move.

If not, then you'll need to have a buddy reach over the top of the engine of from the front of the engine to lend a bit of extra shoving while you giver 'er a wack.

If THAT don't work then you need to use a pry bar and block of wood... . leverage the pump top toward the engine head, wack it a good one with the rubber mallet.

One of these methods will result in moving the indexing marks apart.

You want roughly 1/8" to perhaps 3/16" seperating the two index marks.

Start with the 1/8" first.

Tighten the nuts and bolt up and fire up the ole girl.

As timing is increased you'll notice it will begin to sound a bit more "hard sounding" at idle. Your idle quality should improve slightly and your throttle response will also improve.

Next you'll find less smoke in general but particularly on cold start.

You will also start to see a difference in the way the engine shuts down.

Instead of the normal shake/rattle/roll with stock timing, the engine will be more prone to just flat out stopping much quicker.



Does that help... .



Pastor bob...

 

[BarryG]

Thanks, I pm'd you.

 

[bgilbert]

Better use a 13mm or a 1/2 wrench instead A bent/curved ignition wrench will work for the tough bottom bolt. . Bill