Timing of Brake Fluid Change

[MMeilicke]

When should the brake fluid be changed and what are the indicators that should be looked at to determine whether or not to change the fluid?

 

[seafish]

IIRC, there is NO factory specified brake fluid change interval for our 3rd gen trucks. That being said, due to the ability and propensity of most brake fluids to attrract water over time (mostly due to the condensation caused by the repeated heating and cooling of the fluid as the brakes are applied and released), it is definitely a good idea to completely change out the brake fluid periodically. I am about to do my 2005 for the first time at 65k miles, and I think that I owuld rather have done it at 50k, even though I have no signs of water in the fluid. In fact, there are NO signs of water in fluid until your brake hoses start rotting and/or steel lines and parts start rusting from the inside. Sticking brake calipers can also be a sign of water buildup, but there are other causes to that as well. All that being said, rotting and rusting of the lines typically won't happen except on high mileage vehicles and can also be caused by driving on salted roads. That is why I believe that a brake fluid change should be performed at maintenance intervals, though people will probably disagree on the actual interval, I think that any where between 50k to 75k would be ideal, considering it is a relatively painless and inexpensive operation, especially if you use one of these--



Chrysler Bleeder 0103 -- Motive Products Online Store

 

[JMarketos]

I'm also under the impression that there is no specific service interval for brake fluid change for our 3rd Gen trucks. For no specific reason, I just use the same service interval that's specified for my VW cars, which is to change the brake fluid every 2 years. I use a motive products power bleeder (summit racing), makes things so much easier. If you have an air compressor and can plumb up a small inline pressure regulator, you can avoid buying the whole motive can and just buy the hose adapter end for your particular master cylinder. 8-10PSi bleeding usually does the trick. idparts.com sells a DOT4 blue brake fluid I use every other change- makes it easy to tell when the old fluid is flushed out.

 

[jelag]

Open the master cylinder and look into the reservoir and if the fluid is clear it's most likely OK... if not, bleed the system completely using about 1 - 1 1/2 qt of brake fluid...

We do it once a year when we do a brake inspection... we start with the longest line first, (RR, LR, RF, LF). Bleed until the fluid is clear...

When we install pads, usually in the 150 to 180K mile mark we open the bleeder, compress the piston and push the dirty fluid to the ground, install the pads and fill and bleed the system... at the same time if we see any damage to the boots that cover the pistons we pull the caliper and kit the caliper, dirt behind the boot will cause the piston to stick... and allow brake drag. .

If you see someone putting pads on your vehicle and they just compress the piston, pushing that fluid back to the master with all the dirt in the fluid make them stop and do the job correctly...

All current manuals I've ever seen give them time to flush and bleed the system, the short cut of just pushing the piston back is a short cut that leaves all the contaminated fluid in the system...

I agree with JMarketos, except for the pressure... I'm concerned about the plastic reservoir seeing the 8-10 lbs. . seems like a lot to me... When we had solid cast masters the suggested pressure in a ball type bleeder was no more than about 15 psi...

We do the same thing with the clutch master/slave by pulling the slave from the bell housing and compressing the slave by had, and yes we push this back to the master. Remember there's ABS system or the heat that the brakes see... . with the slave compressed will take a turkey baster and draw out all the fluid and than put more new fluid back in before we release the slave... .

 

[AH64ID]

I did my initial flush when the truck had 57K on it, and was 60 months old.

I am now on a 50K/36 mo service interval.

If you change your brake fluid and notice a difference your running your fluid too long.

 

[RonD]

every 2 years, or 30000 miles for me

 

[PatrickHansen]

I go with the recommendation of VW and other manufacturers: every 24 months, regardless of mileage. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and I sure don't want my binders to fail from the inside out from rust damage.

 

[Kry226]

I do all my vehicles at two year intervals, regardless of mileage. On occasion, I'll use that Motive bleeder, but a Mighty-Vac works well too.

 

[sag2]

Not required, but every brake job or every couple of years. Very cheap insurance.

 

[rbattelle]

A word of caution (as if we don't hear it enough) - beware the bleeders may snap off when trying to remove.

That alone has prevented me flushing my brakes these 7 years. I'm so ashamed.

-Ryan

 

[BILLUA]

True dat!

I spray water displacement 40 on them liberally and let them soak a good 10 minutes... So far, so good.

By the way gents, the Motive Bleeder is one of the best investments in my garage...

 

[Bernie]

Every 2 years, or 50k miles. Nothing scientific to base that off of, but I been on that schedule for years, and have had problems.

 

[DavidC]

This is from the Motive Bleeder site



5) Why do I need to bleed my brakes? Brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere, lowering its boiling point

and causing corrosion. Particulate contamination--microscopic particles of rust and rubber--hastens wear of moving

components. This is why manufacturers and mechanics recommend fully flushing hydraulic fluid annually. In addition,

whenever the hydraulic system has been opened (e. g. when a hydraulic system component is changed), the system

must be bled of air.



I have been doing mine every 2 years but this time I am trying for 3 years. When I do it and see what the fluid looks like when I bleed it into a jar I will make the decision to change at 2 or 3 years. Every year sounds much for Arizona as every one knows it is a dry heat. If I lived in a wet or humid state I probably would do yearly.



Dave

 

[MMeier]

Thought I read somewhere on here once before that you should have a scan tool set up to open all the passages and whatnot in the ABS box when doing a flush ... .