Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing Pin Question-- Valve adjustment

[PKnight]

I meant to adjust the valves today on my 97 Ram CTD and found the timing pin was broken. When I could not get it to engage I removed it and the 1/4"+- portion of the end was missing. This was to be my first valve adjustment (a dealer did it before) so I have some questions. The small tip is missing. Could it still be in the engagement hole? Will this prevent a new tip from dropping in the hole? Does the hole go all the way through the timing gear? Is there another simple way to find TDC? Would appreciate any help!

 

[Bob4x4]

It is very likely broken off in the gear. You can dig it out with a pick

 

[ata]

Seeing how you have the pin out. Get a mirror and a bright light and roll the motor over until you see the broken pin or open hole. When you see the pin or hole close enough. The motor does not have to be exactly top dead center to adjust the valves. Then roll the motor over again to the hole and do the other half of the valves. Or just replace the pin.

 

[fest3er]

Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.



Remove the valve covers. Bar the engine over until #1 valves are both equally loose; note all valves that are loose. That'll be close enough to TDC; remember there is reasonable overlap in a 4-smoke when both valves are closed (between compression and ignition cycles). Adjust the loose valves. Then bar the engine over 360° until a different pair of valves is loose (maybe #6). Adjust all remaining valves. Or you could align using #3 then #4 since they're both easy to observe.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

You can get close to TDC when #1 valves are loose and #6 are equal height, one just opening and the other almost closed. The other TDC will have the actions on 1 and 6 reversed, that is, 6 loose and #1 equal but slightly opened. Once you find one of the TDCs, put a paint mark on the damper and the crank sensor so you can find it again.



The hole in the cam gear is blind. The above method is plenty close to set valves. At #1 TDC firing, you will adjust both on #1 and then alternate I and E through 2,3,4,5. The other TDC, you will adjust both on #6 and do the others in 2,3,4,5.

 

[PKnight]

Thanks for all the help. I think I will try to look into the timing pin hole to verify TDC after rotating and getting #1 valves closed and # 6 valves at equal heights as JD suggests. I can't get my finger in that hole. I don't think I will bother with a new pin because once I find TDC and mark it I won't need the pin anyway, and if the broken off tip is still in the blind hole of the gear it probably wouldn't work. Sure wish they had located that pin on the front cover of the pump. I realize Cummins didn't originally design this engine for a Dodge.

 

[hsmith]

I've never tried to engage the pin on mine. I use the dropped valve method for accuracy.

 

[PKnight]

Thanks hsmith, after studying the situation and getting feedback I agree that is probably the best approach. That pin is hard to access unless the engine is out of the truck and appears fragile as well. PK

 

[PKnight]

I found some time today to verify and mark my TDC. Earlier I posted about my timing pin having the tip broken off. Following suggestions from members I found TDC by turning the engine until #1 valves were loose. I removed the timing pin and used a mirror to look in the hole and could see the hole in the timing gear. I took a picture that I will try to post. Kind of tricky getting

that picture. I then marked my crank with a center punch and yellow marking paint for future reference. I haven't adjusted my valves yet but now I can just by lining up my yellow mark directly under the Crank Position sensor.

 

[PKnight]

Just an update on my valve adjustment. While under warranty I had the valve adjusted two times. Now with just under 200,000 miles I finally got around to adjusting them again. This is a long way over due going by the recommendations. What I found was that they were all very close to specifications. Three required no adjustment at all. Three were about . 001 tight and six were about . 001 loose. The dealer had done them the last time. Now that I have found and marked TDC I will check them in about 30,000 miles because it is so easy to do.
While adjusting I was wishing the adjustment screw had a #8 metric instead of a screw driver slot and that the thread count was higher so the movement would not be so critical. Any thoughts?

 

[Bob4x4]

Just a heads up. I use the same tool on my 12 valves as I did way back when I was playing with small block Chevys. It has a hand grip wheel to do the adjusting and a socket turned by a handle to secure/loosen the lock nut

 

[MLee]

Suggestion, on the timing mark. put a arrow before and after the mark for the TDC. This way you'll know when its about to come into view, no matter which way you rotate the engine. Use the timing pin to plug that hole, to control the dirt and oil mess.

 

[MLee]

Just an update on my valve adjustment. While under warranty I had the valve adjusted two times. Now with just under 200,000 miles I finally got around to adjusting them again. This is a long way over due going by the recommendations. What I found was that they were all very close to specifications. Three required no adjustment at all. Three were about . 001 tight and six were about . 001 loose. The dealer had done them the last time. Now that I have found and marked TDC I will check them in about 30,000 miles because it is so easy to do.

While adjusting I was wishing the adjustment screw had a #8 metric instead of a screw driver slot and that the thread count was higher so the movement would not be so critical. Any thoughts?

The new engines use a socket head screw. I was going to change mine to these but the stud is shorter and does not look like the jam nut would work. A bit of work but it would sure make it easier to adjust.

 

[hsmith]

30k adjustment is a definite overkill.

 

[GAmes]

I agree. Even at 100k there is seldom any adjustment needed. I think the 24k recommendation is a ploy for more dealer work. Unlike oil changes, "valve adjustment" sounds like a complicated, difficult, procedure so a lot of people won't attempt it. Charging for 2 hours labor, new gaskets, disposal fees, etc is a real money maker.

 

[PKnight]

So in the new engines they us a socket head screw? That's great but those valves don't need adjusting do they? I agree that 30,000 is an over kill. Mine had about 125,000 since last adjusted and they were not far off spec. Bob4x4, I've seen those combination tools but don't own one. I'll look for one at the next swap meet I go to. It took me less than two hours and I did some extra clean up at the same time. I agree that the recommendations were probably set with the dealer's profits in mind. PK