Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing pin

[rjones]

I went to time my truck today ,and reached down to find the timing pin and the thing is broken off flush with the housing. What do I do now?How do I find TDC?BTW and cant even move the pin in or out Any ideas?

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Man that bites. Maybe you could screw a wood screw into it from the back (if you hand is small enough) and pull it out with the screw. I just thought I would throw that idea out even if it might not be very good. Good luck

Chris

 

[patrobertson]

You can take the whole pin casing out, but you will need a small rachet and star or allen head attachments. Its a pain but it can be done.



Shane

 

[illflem]

Turn over the motor with a 7/8" socket on the alternator pulley. To locate TDC @ #1, watch #6 until it's at crossover (one rocker going up, the other going down at the same time). This is called the "companion cylinder" method, then mark your harmonic balancer. Some folks use a dial indicator on the valve to assure absolute TDC For more info http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

 

[rjones]

Originally posted by illflem

Turn over the motor with a 7/8" socket on the alternator pulley. To locate TDC @ #1, watch #6 until it's at crossover (one rocker going up, the other going down at the same time). This is called the "companion cylinder" method, then mark your harmonic balancer. Some folks use a dial indicator on the valve to assure absolute TDC For more info http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

Will this method be accurate enough to time the injector pump? Thanks Rick

 

[Rammin On]

NO ... you need to find the precise location of TDC ... . watching the valves cycle won't cut it . .

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I did it the old school way, after I got the new springs in I tried to find TDC with the pin, what a pain in the a$$! I gave up and did it the old school way, when one valve is open and that piston is headed down (Example. . intake opens all the way) adjust the exhaust. Sat aft I did this I was at the track and BS ing with a bud that runs a blown alky small block and I be darned if he wasn't doing the exact same thing. In the service manual it has you to run a valve down on #1 then sllllowy roll the motor over till you tag the valve with the piston, mark the balancer with the case or a piece of wire attatched to the block, rool the motor back the other direction till it tags again and mark it, the middle of those two marks is true TDC. Who knows if that pin is really TDC



Jim

 

[Joe G.]

Jim,



That won't work right. You have to run the valve down with the adjustment or put a shim (better) between the valve stem and rocker. Roll the piston up until it touches and mark it. Then return the valve to it's closed position, roll the engine until the piston goes past TDC, run the valve down again, and then roll the piston back until it touches and mark it. If you roll the engine backwards from where it touches completly around until it touches again the cam lobe will get involved and open the valve.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I was getting a little confused by the posts, so here is another way to explain:



Find the approximate TDC where the valves for #1 are not moving. The #6 valves will be moving. using the alternator is not real good because the gear lash is take nup the wrong direction. Use the barring tool and rotate the engine in the direction it runs. this will be counterclockwise on the barring tool handle and clockwise on the harmonic balancer. #6 exhaust will be almost closed, and #6 intake just opening.



Put a piece of masking tape on the balancer underneath the truck, and affix a pointer made of wire under an oil pan bolt, running to the tape.



Go back on top. Remove #1 valve cover and use the KD spring compressor to compress #1 exhaust valve spring. Now the valve will rest on the piston, about 0. 090" down the hole. Put on a magnetic base dial indicator to the top of the spring compressor handle/stalk. As you rotate the engine, you will see a reading where the valve is up at its highest position, corresponding to TDC. Lets say that is 50 on the indicator. Rotate the engine backwards to say 30, and then start rotating forward to say 35.



Go under the truck and make a sharp line where the pointer is on the tape.



Go back on top and rotate the engine forward past 50 until the reading drops back to 35.



Go under the truck and make a second mark (sharp line) where the wire pointer is on the tape. Using vernier calipers, measure the distance between the sharp lines you made. Exactly the center between these marks is TDC when rotating the engine in forward direction (clockwise on the balancer looking at the front of the engine).



If you do a very careful job, this is as good or better than using the timing pin.

Hope this helps.

 

[Todd T]

yaaa what Joe said



this will all work, but i use a corner of the crank position sensor for a pointer instead of crawling under the truck each time. its on top



put a little white paint on the front edge of the balancer and scribe it.



I think Joe's idea of a wood screw will work. a new timing pin is what $2. 00 I keep two or three in my tool box.

 

[rjones]

Thanks for all your help guy's. I wonder how hard it is to take the pin housing off to put a new one in?

Rick

 

[Rammin On]

The pin housing is a "female dog" to get out of there ... . but it can be done ... just make sure you get a positive TDC with the pin in before you tighten the housing down

 

[rjones]

Originally posted by Rammin On

The pin housing is a "female dog" to get out of there ... . but it can be done ... just make sure you get a positive TDC with the pin in before you tighten the housing down

Cool thanks for that info,I really need to time this thing so Ill probably drop the vavle and go that route for now,then later on Ill put a new pin in. Rick

 

['956Wheel]

Watch the rockers as many posts say, and with the #1 injector out use a wood dowel to feel the piston. Do this numerous times with a mark on the harmonic balancer and look at the mark AFTER you think you have it on TDC. I went 6 out of 6 and called it good. Did the timing this way, with Rammins' numbers, and the truck runs better than ever!



Also if you did not get the barring tool, put a ratchet on the alternator and another on one of the 15mm harmonic bal bolts so you can go back and forth real easy.



Mike

 

[rjones]

Well I just spent 4hrs trying to get to the timing pin housing so I could put a new pin in, what a joke I cant even get the pin itself out. I heated a screwdriver and stuck it into the broken pin and tried to pry it out wouldn't even budge,there must be a lock ring or something holding it,however I cant even get it to push in either. Its really bugging me cuz I dont like having something broken on my truck I need to fix it,even though I can find TDC other ways.

 

[Rammin On]

Yes ... there is a ... modified if you will star washer/keeper holding it in ..... tis a >>>>> gettng out ... remove thr pin housing and get the whole thing ... .

 

[Don M]

I broke my timing pin off one day while setting the timing. I was busy yakkin on the phone and forgot to pull it back out before I cranked the engine over. It was a very big pain to remove.



I dug and dug at it with various dental tools and got it to pop out.

The material it is made out of does not lend itself to using a hot poker or the like. Trying to remove the housing is a job better left done when the engine is out of the truck.



The only thing that is holding it in is friction. Try a very sharp set of dental tools and you may get it to pop free.



Took me about 2 hours laying on my side and reaching under the pump.



Don~

 

[rjones]

Don M:The only thing that is holding it in is friction. Try a very sharp set of dental tools and you may get it to pop free.

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DonM : Mine seems to have a clip or locking ring holding it in I didn't have enough time to continue digging at it last night, I'll try again this weekend when I have more time so I can take the thing apart more,and try to get more room to work on it,the key is trying to get that ring out

 

[Rammin On]

You can get the keeper out with a scribe or a pick ... . it's a PITA but can be done ... . the "keeper" looks like a star washer ... wish I had an old one lying around ... I'd send you a picture ...

 

[Don M]

Originally posted by rjones

Don M:The only thing that is holding it in is friction. Try a very sharp set of dental tools and you may get it to pop free.

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DonM : Mine seems to have a clip or locking ring holding it in I didn't have enough time to continue digging at it last night, I'll try again this weekend when I have more time so I can take the thing apart more,and try to get more room to work on it,the key is trying to get that ring out

I was talking about the broken off piece of the timing pin inside the timing gear. It is just a nipple from the tip of the timing pin itself. I was able to dig mine out with sharp dental tools. It is made of some weird plastic material that is somewhat brittle and can be slowly broken or chip away at. Im not talking about the timing pin housing.



Don~