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Timing port leaking?

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Old Smoky's Fuel pin

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Hi everyone. Hope you had a great Labor Day weekend.



This last weekend I set the injector pump timing to 1. 4mm. I had all the injector lines off, replaced the vacuum pump, installed 185 Bosch injectors, etc. etc. . But when I removed the timing port plug fuel came out, and in a steady stream. Is that normal?
 
Yup, pretty much... they can loosen off if not done up properly and scare the boogers outta ya when you see/smell that fuel...



Just make sure to snug it up good and you're ok to go...



Pastor Bob: Our Lady Of Acceleration Church... :D:D
 
Thank you for the insight BushWakr. I've done this before but didn't notice the fuel. Sure did this time.



While I'm on the subject of injector pumps, is there an stock setting that these VE pumps are set at from the factory? Referring to the star wheel and high speed screw specifically. Like so many turns from the top or something like that?
 
I think the best we can do when it comes to "what is stock settings" is to generalize



The high idle screw (aka: governor screw) usually limits the max RPM on the pump to roughly 2450 - 2500 RPM. That is at WOT, and you can test this while in "P" or "N". Just ramp up the throttle till you hit the floor with the pedal. You should see the RPM governed at the above RPM range.



The AFC diaphram is usually set about midway between max/min on the cone contour.



The smoke screw is a fairly 'variable' setting and is really only applicable to "off idle" shot of fuel/smoke. It contributes to the first 60 feet of launch... after that it's a non-participant.



The starwheel is generally about 1/2 way between top/bottom of it's threaded "mounting shaft.



Low idle is variable depending on transmission... if it's an auto you should set your idle so that you have about 750 RPM with the truck in "D" and the AC on high. This will help maintain oil pressure, reduce mirror "wobblies" etc.



In "stock" mode they generally run about 80cc's of fuel for every 1000 strokes, or thereabouts... ... .



The stock timing setting is noted as ranging from 1. 40mm "lift" to

1. 25mm (for the later 1st Gens) I have no precise corelation for the conversion of mm lift and degrees advance. It's generally best to have the pump timed so that you are in/around the 15-16 degrees of advance and/or 1. 5 - 1. 55mm lift but CONFIRM THAT in terms of degrees advance please.

This advance helps reduce smoke, smooth out idle quality, lower EGT's a bit and, make the throttle a bit more responsive or "sensitive" to accel. demands.



Always try to run the best fuel you can find. Our pumps are entirely cooled and lubed by the fuel itself. Drain a bit off the filter to make sure you don't start accumulating water and use some form of fuel treatment, mostly due to the fuel being coolant/lubricant for our pumps.



Pastor Bob.
 
Thanks for the info. BushWakr.



From reading one of the other post I have gathered that there is a bottom to screwing the star wheel down. But what about screwing it out, or counter clockwise? Is there an absolute stop or is the stop when it comes out of the hole with springs flying to the farthest corners of the shop never to be seen again? Could be pretty expensive if that were the case.
 
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