timming pin not

[Plandon]

Boy let me just tell you, trying to hit the timing pin is near impossible, at least for me on my truck. I was trying to adjust the valves,I finally called in the wife(something I don't often do) but had no choice. It took us near an hour to find TDC as a last resort we used the #1 loose #6 tight then reverse it mythod, to get at TDC which worked well . The problem was we couldn't get the darn pin in the hole, it just wouldn't go, we must have went 8 revs. and could not find it ,even by using the #1&#6 deal to get close,I couldn't find it. Maybe someone has broken off the pin by being Dumber than me. Then I thought I'd give the fuel screw a whirl , Ha Ha you guys must be magic or have little tiny hands and little tiny and way bent tools . The best I could do was to get the alum. cap off after that it went down hill . I give you guys that have succeded a big Hoorah cause I sure had hell. Anyone have an easyer way or I guess I'll pay some little guy to do it.

 

[Greenleaf]

Timing Pin/Aluminum Cover Woes

Yes, a big PITA. The first thing I ever did to or with a 5. 9 was to help out a friend who had his valves adjusted by a competent mechanic Well it seemed the valves were way off. I could not locate TDC with the pin. Probably sheared off. It's just plastic. If it's working, I can use a small pry bar to push the pin up tight against the gear while someone down in the service pit rotates the flywheel. It sometimes takes awhile, but it will slip right in when in register. In this case I use the valves as reference. It works for me



I used needle nose vice grip type pliers to tear the cover off the fuel screw. It was mangled quite well by then. I believe there was one on the high speed/gov adjust screw also. It pulled right off



Scott

 

[Jim Fulmer]

After you have calmed down and want to work on it again do the drop valve method and find true TDC and mark the balancer and have a pointer off one of the oil pan bolts, then when you get ready to do it again take your #1 valve cover off and roll the motor backwards with the alternator till the #1 intake valve is opening then jump under and turn the motor over the correct way via the balancer till you get to the TDC mark you made, after that adjust 1/2 the valves then roll it over one round and do the other half. Finding true TDC takes a bit but once you've done it you good unless you bump the pointer to remove and install the balancer in a different position.



JIm

 

[phillips5]

That is how Ihave to do my valves because someone broke my pin. As ffor the fuel screw take out the three bolts that hold the throutle linkage;dipstick;transmission cable bracket two are in the heat grid one is down below. lay the bracket out of way. remove manifold pressure tube that is between head and afc housing. Than screw will be accessed better use 1/4 rachet and small socket 5mm i think. All take less than 1/2 hour.

 

[dpuckett]

PLandon,



I have taken the pin out to find TDC, then stuck my finger in the hole while i rotated the engine. You will come across the dimple notch in the cam gear, and feel it. I hardly ever have any luck with the timing pin. I put it back in to keep oil from leaking out.



phillips5- Timing pin is $5 from Case if it is that big a deal. I use a 13mm wrench, then a 6mm wrench to turn the screw. Go at it from under the throttle linkage, and it works prety good. Getting the cap off, if it's still there, is a PITA.



Jim Fulmer- Can you please explain the drop vavle method? I have read about guys doing it on the board here, but can never visualize how to do it, ot think of looking it up when it comes time to do valves. PM me or post it, either way.



How often should valves get done?



Daniel

 

[TSuter]

I've had to do the same as dpuckett on both of mt CTDs. The first time I adj. the valves just pull the pin out, look in the hole with an inspection mirror (one of my daughter's Barabie mirrors worked great) for the hole on the gear. Once it's there I put a paint mark on the harmonic so next time it's a one person job.



Tom

 

[DPKetchum]

You can also use a mirror to see it. Then use touch up paint and mark the balancer for in the future. Techs I worked with just snatch that pin out and usually used a finger or a mirror to find it.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

The later 1st Gen pumps have a 6mm hex head on the end of the fuel screw, earlier versions and some recons have a slotted end.

The slotted end is a joke...

To make this adjustment easy for one's using the slotted screw try this...



Mark your pump timing marks/locations. Then loosen the pump off and rotate it away from the engine till the AFC top is well clear of the engine head. Then, remove the fuel screw, counting your turns as you go. If you leave the locknut as close to "snug" position as possible you'll have a secondary reference for the fuel screw depth along with the # of turns out you should get it exactly right when you re-install it.

Now, once the screw is out, you can tack weld a nut or small bolt with hex head to the end of the fuel screw. If you don't have a welder of access to one, use a good quality epoxy and fasten the nut on like that.

Re-install the fuel screw, and rotate the pump back to it's original positon. Then using the nut or bolt end you can adjust your fueling with that and have no more grief due to tight working

space.



If you do this, remember that you'll loose a tad of fuel from the pump when the screw comes out. This is normal. Just reassemble and after a bit of cranking it should start right up and smooth out fairly quickly.

 

[Plandon]

timming pin

Thanks guys for all the help. That was really flustrating ,but with all your suggs. the next time I attempt to fool with that mess I can go at it with a lot clearer picture. Still not going to be easy. The fuel screw sdounds alittle easyer but that AFC difam. that will be another scary trip. I'll let you'all know how it turns out. Thanks