Tips for first big tow with my '04.5

[CStansbury]

Hey guys,

I know a lot of you guys to some heavy towing so I though I would ask for a few tips. I've done some towing, but nothing this big yet. I'll be pulling a 20' tri-axle electric brake construction trailer with a 8500 lb Unimog on the back this weekend. I'll be in the truck in my sig. No exhaust brake yet. I am installing my Prodigy brake controller tonight. I'll be using chains and ratchet binders to secure the load. Now, I know the Cummins will have no problems with this load, but I just want to make sure I don't screw anything up. I haven't gotten my Christmas gauges installed yet so I'll be watching the temp gauge and keeping my foot out of it on long grades. I won't have access to the trailer until I get there. Any thoughts on setting up the Prodigy in a timely manner besides just following the instructions. It's about a 220 mile haul so it should be too bad. There are some 7 and 8% grades on some stretches. I know I'm typing aimlessly here without any specific questions. I'm just looking for some words from the wise and experienced. Thanks

 

[Beast2B]

I doubt you'll have a way to get too specific, but loading the trailer would be my biggest factor after brakes/lights - 10-15% tongue weight. You're using a weight distributing hitch, right? Air up the tires to max pressure on sidewalls for best mpg and least tire heat.

Beyond that, enjoy using the truck for what it's meant for, it'll shine!

 

[Slow Six]

Put the boots to it. After the initial break in for the rear diff. the best thing you can do for the engine is put it to work. I have done this to all my dodges and they all are still going strong. If your engine is stock you shouldn't have to worry about temps. Enjoy.

 

[Joe G.]

Slow Six is right. If you baby these engines they won't break in right.

 

[Cryppie]

One more thing, make sure you keep the RPM's up. The worst thing to do (other than idling too long) is lug your new engine. Don't be afraid of tennis elbow, rowing through the gears can be fun...

 

[SleeStack]

I have hauled a Unimog around many times in past (modified Rockcrawling 404 btw). If you are using a pull behind trailer, be very carefull of the tongue weight. The Unimog can be decieving as to its weigh balance point. Err on the side of too much tongue weight. I would shoot for about 2-3 inches of rear suspension sag with a 2500. You should have absolutely no trailer wag at speed or while coasting at highway speed. If you do, you have too little tongue weight, and should move the truck forward a bit. Mogs pretty front heavy depending on how they are equiped.



I always strap/chain the trucks down by the frame and not the axles. All my trucks have long travel suspensions and pretty slinky springs so they are much more stable on the trailer with the frame tied to the trailer. Some will swear by strapping vehicles down by the axles, but I would rather the trailer suspension do the work by itself, and not have a loosey goosey truck swaying back and forth.



On a 404 mog, a good place to attach your straps is to the tops of the (ultra beefy) shock mounts. There is a nice hole in the top to slip a hook in to hold it down (in the front and rear).



Hope some of this helps,

 

[juicedcummins]

An inline 6 should be downshifted@ around 1400rpm to let the engine work as desinged. This applies to the 5. 9 and 1400rpm is not lugging an inline 6. The engine will last longer and break-in will be achieved sooner due to higher cylinder presures. Keeping the rpms' is a v-8 thing that applies to gas or diesel.

 

[CStansbury]

I have hauled a Unimog around many times in past (modified Rockcrawling 404 btw). If you are using a pull behind trailer, be very carefull of the tongue weight. The Unimog can be decieving as to its weigh balance point. Err on the side of too much tongue weight. I would shoot for about 2-3 inches of rear suspension sag with a 2500. You should have absolutely no trailer wag at speed or while coasting at highway speed. If you do, you have too little tongue weight, and should move the truck forward a bit. Mogs pretty front heavy depending on how they are equiped.



I always strap/chain the trucks down by the frame and not the axles. All my trucks have long travel suspensions and pretty slinky springs so they are much more stable on the trailer with the frame tied to the trailer. Some will swear by strapping vehicles down by the axles, but I would rather the trailer suspension do the work by itself, and not have a loosey goosey truck swaying back and forth.



On a 404 mog, a good place to attach your straps is to the tops of the (ultra beefy) shock mounts. There is a nice hole in the top to slip a hook in to hold it down (in the front and rear).



Hope some of this helps,

Very good info from an experienced Mog hauler! Just what I was looking for! Thanks





The tow home didn't happen this weekend. When I got there the guy's trailer brakes weren't working! I took a pass on that no doubt. I'll be either renting or buying a 18' trailer before I haul it home.

 

[jeepit]

I am interested in what the Unimog will be used for. I saw a used here in Wisconsin and could not believe all the shift levers. I think I counted 7. What the h... are they all for?

 

[SleeStack]

On a 404:



Transmission shifter

2wd/4wd lever, that also actuates the cable lockers when pulled fully in 4wd

Reverse lever

Ebrake



On a newer mog there are more levers, and more gears

 

[CStansbury]

I am interested in what the Unimog will be used for. I saw a used here in Wisconsin and could not believe all the shift levers. I think I counted 7. What the h... are they all for?

I'll be using mine for a weekend cruiser and off-roader. It's a radio truck right now, but I am going to swap the radio box for a regular dropside bed to lose about 2000 lbs and make it fit in the garage.



SleeStack has the shifters right on the 404. I also looked at a 406 diesel Mog before this one and it had the 20-speed cascade transmission with about 6 or 7 levers on the floor. It sures makes them hard to steal unless the crook knows how to drive one

 

[SSage]

Make sure the brakes work well. I had some problems keeping mine plugged in, my dually brakes will stop big loads on flat ground ok. Add some down hill and watch out when the 7 pin / 6 pin adapter shakes loose! I set the brake controller's boost on the highest level with the gain wheel at 3/4 when my equipment trailer is over 10K.



I would recommend at least a 12K GVWR trailer, I use a 14K two axle flat deck tag to haul my tractors. I have no problems stopping when the trailer brakes are working. Keep in mind stock hitches will be over loaded with just a ball mount, goose necks are they way to go if you can. I always use at least very heavy home made ball mount with a 12K ball. A WD set up would be smart if your going to tow that load more than just once.